Elias Iagnemma

-VAMPIRIA-
⬇️📖

My old nemesy.
It’s incredible how over time you mature and things that once seemed impossible have now become almost easy.
I spent a few sessions trying to figure out if this line was still doable after the F.A of probably more than 10 years ago.
This boulder initially graded 8a, has never been repeated because it probably suffered some breaks in it’s central part.
At the beginning I also thought it was impossible or at least it was absolutely not of that grade also because I climbed the 8a line to the right on my second attempt. It was a transition boulder, I did a few sessions without success before my trip to Finland which you all know how it ended and now, that I was very close to climbing my most difficult project.
I had to stop because of the high temperatures and so I decided to return to this line to climb in a cooler place and try to keep my fit as long as possible.
Last night incredibly after an excellent warm-up on my first attempt of the session I managed to climb this arduous line on razor-sharp holds.

I propose the upgrade to 8b+!

It is definitely the first time in my life that I do this since most of the time I tend to downgrade.
Obviously it was not my hardest climb but this problem left me with a lot since it was a beginning for a finished process and an end point in another that is about to come to an end.

“Airness” 8b✅

Amazing line by my friend 💎

I wanted to try it flash. Unfortunately due to the very high temperatures I realized that it was ambitious.

After an excellent warm-up I still managed to climb this incredible line on my third attempt from the ground, failing the two attempts before on the last move.

What a move!

I would have loved to visit this place in the right season, the biggest battle was getting to the Boulder among meters of nettles and surviving mosquitoes and ticks.

However, I had a lot of fun climbing this line, the moves are incredible, especially the last one. I chose to visit this place because my main project has been wet for some time and I needed to keep the stimulus high but above all to free my mind clouded by this arduous process. I had wanted to find pleasure and my inner peace for weeks.

Airness has contributed positively to this and now I am ready to come back on my project.

📸 🙏

“Afrodite”
8b+/V14 F.A

For the past few weeks my main project has been wet all the time. I spent many days in the Piedmont mountains looking for new summer projects. I found several but only this one struck me. A practically smooth 35° wall, micro holds for the hands and feet, movements of pure power from the shoulders. The first two movements are the most extreme, the difficulty is in generating incredible force on the shoulders lies in always maintaining maximum pressure on the left foot placed on a small vertical hold, a truly beautiful position puzzle. I was really happy to have climbed this incredible line. For me one of the most beautiful I have ever climbed. It was a beautiful day as before the evening session I spent some time researching new projects and found another Boulder area near home with many new projects for next winter. The concentration of rock in this place is incredible. Thanks also to and for the new supply of the highest quality chalk. Hoping for better weather conditions for the next sessions.



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“Optimus Prime”✅
F.A 8b Or 8b/+

Near home in Piedmont I discovered a new boulder area and I have cleaned several lines.For the moment the closest to the road.The area is very large and offers excellent quality granite. In the last few sessions I have dedicated myself to cleaning and trying this new one testpiece, he immediately bewitched me with the beauty of his holds and his crimp powerful movements. I’ve traveled a lot lately to climb and sometimes I’m amazed at how much potential we have close to home and we don’t realize it. You just need to have the will to walk, clean and create. I will always continue to repeat that all this is what matters so that a line has more value and then gives us big emotions. Optimus prime It was a great emotion!



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“Hakuna Matata”
8b+/V14 F.A

Among the various climatic changes of these days I have found the right conditions to climb this incredible line. 28 moves of pure power and strength endurance. I tried to dedicate time to this type of climbing to be stronger to climb my main project but unfortunately I failed for the moment, it's really difficult and mentally destructive. I'm super motivated now to get back on my fall project.
Time to train in only 5 moves 😂🔜🇫🇮

📸 🙏



🍁

Too hot to climb my project but it's a good time to dedicate to specific training and have fun on some easier but wonderful outdoor boulder.

📸 and Happy birthday 💙

“La quintessenza” 8a

Incredible to think that in this boulder there are two lines with the same name 😅. I liked climbing the purest and most direct line possible starting with a small right crimp sitting in the center of the boulder and a sloper with the left hand. Really nice line 💎

F.A probably

Al Bosco Scorace Elias Iagnemma libera Poesia, il primo 8B+ boulder della Sicilia A febbraio al Bosco Scorace in Sicilia Elias Iagnemma ha liberato Poesia che si pone come il primo blocco di 8B+ dell'Isola. Dal 22 al 24 aprile la zona ospiterà il primo raduno boulder della Sicilia.

“From the flock” 7c+/V10 🐑

Another magic from the trip.
💎

📸 🙏



🙏🔥

UNA "POESIA" SICILIANA PER ELIAS! - Up-Climbing Elias Iagnemma libera Poesia, una linea di 8B+ nell'area siciliana di Bosco Scorace e il boulder più duro di tutta l'isola

“Poesia” 8b+ (HARD) F.A

•Inizió tutto quest’inverno, la famiglia di decise di organizzare il primo meeting-raduno atleti in Sicilia. Qui ho avuto l’opportunità e la fortuna di conoscere dei nuovi amici e delle persone speciali. In quei giorni trascorsi in questo posto qualcosa mi stregó fin da subito e quindi decisi di far ritorno per capire cosa fosse stato e trascorrere in questa terra un’pò più di tempo. In questo mio ultimo viaggio di dieci giorni ho potuto ammirare la passione, amore, senso di sacrificio e condivisone di una persona che come me della scalata ne ha fatto la sua vita. Ho visto veramente qualcosa che ricercavo da molto tempo, ovvero la condivisione pura senza malizia e pregiudizio dove l’esclusività della prestazione viene messa in seconda parte dando la priorità alla valorizzazione del territorio senza barriere. Probabilmente è il lugo in cui mi sono sentito maggiormente a casa e tutto questo grazie a e la sua metà “Giorgia” !
Dedico a voi questa “Poesia” ed anche il primo 8b+ della Sicilia. Non vedo l’ora di tornare per terminare gli innumerevoli progetti che questo posto mozzafiato ci ha regalato durante le intense giornate di valorizzazione e pulizia in vista dello .
Voglio ringraziare anche due nuovi amici e per i fantastici giorni passati assieme e come al solito non può mancare il ringraziamento più grande a che è sempre al mio fianco e mi supporta e sopporta nelle nostre avventure.
Restate sintonizzati per il resoconto del viaggio completo e di tutto il processo di questi giorni magici. 🤘

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Best and beautiful of 2022!

•Ganesh 8c+
•Utopia 8c/+
•Monkey wedding 8c
•Petrichor 8c
•Der mit dem fels tantz 8c
•Ninja skills 8c
•Black eagle 8b+
•Smaug 8b+

Welcome 2023🤘

#☮️



#2022

Exploring day.
🧭

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UTOPIA 8c/+ ✅ F.A


Amazing to believe what happened.
During this period I have always had an excellent state of shape but unfortunately I had to fight with many injuries to my fingers. Thanks to my physiotherapist I was able to recover in less than three weeks. I ended up another tough fight that cost me over fifteen sessions. This line looked like something futuristic two years ago, now it’s reality, a reality that I created, my most beautiful first ascent ever. I hope that one day someone will come to mind to try to replicate my own emotions by repeating this is all the other difficult stones that the “Tintorale” wood has given us.
Stay tuned for the video and in the next months the official guide of “Tintorale “will be released.

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Back on !

After my finger injury on BOD I went home and worked to get back to my best as soon as possible. The finger responded very well and I was back in the games. It's not 100% yet but will be back soon I'm sure👌

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My trip to Finland ends here. In these days I was able to try this boulder only 3 sessions. Unfortunately today at the end of the session I injured my middle finger again, but this one in the left hand. I came very close to solving all the moves in such a short time and in poor condition. Unfortunately, I still have two days to try it but I will have to stay still to recover. Another injury didn't take me now that I was feeling very well but it's part of the game. Now I will go home and I will think exclusively of getting back in shape and then planning the training and the next trip to Lappnor for March. This boulder made me understand many things, many weak points to work on. It's amazing how nature created such a perfect line, a sequence of only 8 moves but all incredibly extreme. I hope to recover from this injury soon and get back into the game right away.

📸 ❤️

Session #10

Utopia project is possible.
I managed to solve it in two parts.
The first part 5 movements are 8b+(Hard) and the stand it’s 8a+/B.
I can't wait to put it all together,
I hope in the right conditions these days.

📸

After two intense days of routesettings for the friends of the gym with my “Gnappa” , Yesterday .dp .neme they took us to explore a huge bouldering area full of boulders.
I did a quick flash climb of “Pascale panedda” 7c/V9 a classico from the area.
Later I tried another boulder but I was unable to climb it due to the very high temperatures of these days.🔥
We have seen countless projects and new boulders with incredible shapes to enhance. The potential that this area has to offer is incredible. Probably in December I will take a month and I will return to this fantastic place to bring these incredible lines to life.

📸1️⃣ 🙏
📸 👉 .dp 🙏

Immediately after returning from South Africa, together with the guys of the we organized the first street bouldering in my country. A wonderful day of party and fun.
I hope in the next year to be able to recreate a day like this.

Now restart to training for the next trip in October to Finland.👆

Special 🙏 to who helped me and supported in all of this 💙

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“Quintessential”
8b/V13 ✔️

•Today we go home. In this days, in addition to fighting with cuts on my skin and inflammation in my middle finger, I was still able to climb all the projects I had in mind. I hope to be better equipped next year to climb the highballs I have left and which unfortunately I was unable to try this year.

Ticklist 5 weeks 😏

•Monkey wedding 8C/V15
•Petrichor 8C/V15
•Black Eagle 8B+/V14
•Sky 8B/V13
•The Guestlist 8B/V13
•Mooiste Meisie 8B/V13
•Quintessential 8B/V13

📸 💙

It was really exciting a few moments before the ascent of this fantastic line, to observe a black eagle flying a few meters from this stone. I think was inspired by a moment like this to choose the name for this 💎

Last days in this paradise before come back home 🔥

📸 🤩

“Black Eagle”
Sit-start
8b+/V14✅

• These days I’m struggling with severe pain in my middle finger and complete destruction of my skin. Today I made a quick climb of this great classic with my left hand totally taped. I hope in the last few days that my skin will be good again to end this trip in the best possible way.👊🤞

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