BMW e36 project Grunn17

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Be the first to witness yardswappedE36 start or break! Subscribe and be notified for the 2nd upload and real video of the car's first start. Will it make it or will I break it?🤞

Building and engine swapping a BMW E36 316i to 325i TURBO SHOWCAR under 10 minutes! Picture collection of my BMW e36 engine swap from a 316i to a 325i turbo. The bottom of the car + the engine got a fresh overhaul, the engine bay's ' shaved ...

Turbo prep done ✅️

Fingers crossed 🤞

- M50b25 non vanos internals
Machined block with new piston rings, main bearings, bolts
- non vanos head
Machined head, new valve guides, valves, valveseals, oem double springs, oem m50b25 cams
- 2x headgasket + spacer
- ARP studs
- m54 oilpump and chain tensioner
- new oem seals
- new oem bolts and nuts
- new oem sensors
- stage 4 clutchmasters flywheel and clutch
- maxspeedingrods gt3582 turbo
- ebay cast iron manifold
- ZF 5 speed gearbox

Block prep; m54 oil pump + chain tensioner.

First and foremost, this isn't a standard thing for turbo builds and the oem pump should be adequate for most applications. Also there are some other options out there but as to keep this budget friendly, we're gonna try this. There isn't much information to be found about the m54 oilpump conversion but everything lines up perfectly and should be good, let's go🤞....

In preparation for the m50b25 turbo build I've came across several stories about low oil pressures in the lower rpm ranges. Even flickering the oil light on and off for some people when in stationary. This mostly has to do with older oil squirters. In which the valves won't fully close any more, causing a loss off pressure. But also when the vanos engages or opening an extra line to feed the turbo with oil, you're lowering the oilpressures and flow even more..

The later m52tu and m54 engines, which have a double vanos unit and are very close look a likes to the m50 engineblock. Are using a different oilpump, which is a lot bigger. 58/20mm vs 62/25mm respectively. Ultimately this will give the complete engine a better flowing oil circuit and also keep the pressure a bit higher when adding extra lines and heat from the turbo.

For the conversion there is 7mm milled off the back of the oilpump housing. One rear bolt holes is erased and the other rear bolt hole is enlarged 5mm to the inside of the engine. A m54 oil pickup tube together with the oem m50 sprocket and chain, gives a perfect fit with the same +-5mm slack on the oil chain as oem. Mission accomplished.

Another problem with the oem pump is breaking oilpump shafts or the loosening of oil pump sprocket nuts. This has to do with vibrations in the crank (most known in the m54b30 crank) and the slack in the oil pump chain without any way of tensioning it. The slack on the chain is easily fixed by drilling and tapping 2 holes for shoulderbolts and a tensioner, which were oem delivered on some older m50's in e34's or the newer m54 engines. I've used part number 11411317650 coupled with 2 shoulder bolts diameter 8mm/length 20mm/ thread m6 and a washer.

Lastly for the nut backing off I've done two welds coupling the sprocket to the nut. There's a bit of discussion what's the best option here, there is a shaft for sale which uses 4 bolts in stead of one nut, there's a safety wire nut or there's the weld option. My decision was finalized by a unknown to me poster on the forums which read; You trust your life on welds everyday. In which he's right. Side mission's accomplished,

Level; 100%

BMW e36 project Grunn17

Loading 🔁

Out with the old, in with the new 💯

Shaved ✅✅

Bmw e36 broken bolts rear trailing arm fix.

Ohhnoo so that happened😫..

Chassis reinforcements loading 🔄

- subframe to chassis
- suspension mounts
- rear trailing arms

16/6/2021 🌍

We've got a new daily !! 🍒

BMW e39 528i 1/1 in brilliantrot 2 🤩..

Also a small update on yardswappedE36; There are only a few things left to be done to have the enginebay ready for paint. Which are, the relocation of the fusebox to the interior of the car, strengthening the front upper struts and deciding which route to go for a brake booster setup.

Ideally I wouldn't want to drive without the brakes being boosted. It isn't a dedicated track car where it's needed for 'feels' and I'm also trying to keep the ABS system active for emergency braking. Still, having the humongous brakebooster in a further perfectly cleaned enginebay, isn't an option. Will report back when I've found a solution.

Added with the pics is the relocation of the ABS module and I'll make an seperate post for a how to when I've finished the brake lines.

Thanks for making it this far and joining the build process of . Please leave a like to stay updated on future posts and may we meet again ✌

Rocker panel restoration 👨‍🏭

update;
Last weekend I've moved the car into the garage and lifted the front end. I started deleting and cleaning parts troubling free acces to the jacking points and rocker panels and I've now got everything mostly ready to start cutting, cleaning and rewelding the chassis. But first I need to tackle another bmw e36 'problem'..

The prefacelift bmw e36 came with a hideous grey sealant around the rocker panels and bumpers. From the factory the cars were first completly painted into their base color and afterwards they added an extra layer of protection over the rocker panels to avoid stonechipping and the thereby following rust.

Just as I will be doing, the later models use plastic sideskirts as protection and don't have the extra grey layer. Also sadly the grey on the bumpers is stamped and can't be cleaned.

But.. the grey goo on the rocker panels can be cleaned. The paint underneath the extra layer is coated in a 2k clearcoat and with help from some chemicals (google yourself) it'll clean right up. As seen in my pictures, after thouroughly cleaning with paint thinner on my car, there's good red paint underneath.

That's another job done ✅ time for rust removal ❌

Let's roll ___🏎_____🚓___

Here's the new to build chassis; the most basic euro BMW e36 316i coupe and sadly, time hasn't done her well. Body- and paint-wise the car's in a really rough shape and she also drove from the factory, forgetting to add any of the optional packages. No problem; when there's less there, there's more to add😬

We'll talk body- and paint- work' later. First some wiring; I've started throwing away everything inside the car I wasn't going to use, and then carefully removed all other parts needed to gain acces to the car's inside wiring loom. I'm going to add a couple off OEM retrofits and make a seperate post per retrofit adding details and more pictures as we come along with the build. The following retrofits I've mostly figured out and parts laying ready to go💯..

- oem battery to trunk conversion
- oem auto dim rearview mirror
- oem heated leather seats
- oem rearseat headrest
- oem.adjustable steering wheel height
- oem cruise control
- oem e39 dome light with 'ambient lighting'
-.oem rear ashtray light
- oem engine bay- / hood- light
- trunk antenna delete
- oem m3 wiper fluid resorvoir

Thanks for reading and leave a like to follow and build with me. Next up; OEM battery to trunk placement and start of the engine bay shave.

New coupe chassis is here; Lets goo 😍

Sneak peek 👀

Soooo.... I kind of.. hit a wall(or tree)in the e36 project...

Mostly literally speaking that is. I did crash the coupe in bad weather recently and I'm a bit undecided in fixing the bend side or trying to find a good replacement chassis. The car just went straight ahead driving in the dark, through a bunch of broken branches and the sidepanels got pretty messed up underneath. That being said, I have bought some other nice goodies and there are more parts shipped and coming in the followings weeks. To be continued...

Back at it again ✔✔




As always it's a challenge getting things going the way their supposed too. I've ordered myself a DIY sandblaster kit + 100 kilograms of abrasive blasting powder and started working on the rims.

I started in the yard with a small compressor and it was surely doable but the compressor lacked a bit in terms of it's build up pressurized air volume. After every small 10 second blast, the compressor needed to start up again to get back to it's full pressure. That said, it's certainly was doable.

I still did the works myself to show you every part of this e36 build but I cheated a bit in using the 13 BAR pressurized air system at my job's garage. It took a lot of time off prepping the rims but not using a cabinet it still was a very messy job. Yardstyled, as we do.

'Proper gear' very much recommended and after thouroughly cleaning the surrounding area beforehand I started working. About 2 rims down I found myself through the first bag of abrasive powder and I've started reusing the used powder found everywhere surrounding me, on me and in me. Including prepping and cleaning, it took me around 3 hours to get the paint off and loading the wheels back in the car.

Trying to finish the paint prep in the yard at home I found the next challenge. I've driven with the wheels and didn't felt it but smoothening the rims I felt a wobble in one of the wheels. Sigh.. Straightening wheels is something I can't do myself so I've contacted a friend, who took the bent rim and I'm now waiting on getting the rim back. I'll give it a final prep, every paint is already in, and off to paint we go again. 🌈🌈🌈

There isn't much to update as I've been busy making progress on all the not-so-fun and time-draining parts of the build.

I've bought a second hand hydraulic press and welded a cage around it. Combined with different socket sizes and pieces of spare trow away pipe, I removed all knuckles, bearings, rubbers and bushings. After the subframes are sandblasted and coated, everything underneath the car can now safely be replaced by oem or better quality parts.

As for control arms I'm going to reuse the e36's arms instead of the e46's. I don't really need the extra steering angles you get from the e46's control arm set-up and I don't want my wheels sticking out even further.

Wheels and brakes are sandblasted and getting colored and for the subframe it is due. I'm off grinding out the time consuming sandblast and will report as we continue. Thanks for reading and making it this far and please leave your thumbs up to join the build😁

Made up my mind on wheelcolorS. Wheels are off and getting painted in... 🌈🌈🌈

Keep the car love coming and a big thankyou to everyone giving their thumbs up♡ Within 7 days of going public we're steadily growing towards 2500 likes at .. 10k likes; we're coming for you 😁🤞 Vamosss/ Let's gooooo!

Lets have a look at one of the orders of today--->> a set of e46 330i front brake callipers🥳

That means I have everything for a e46 330i/328i to e36 brake swap complete. Time to do the work and sand blast all rust/dust into oblivion.. Give the brakes a fresh coat of paint; oohh that color ordered... and order new brake disks, pads and all the rest of the goodies.

will be running the 325mm e46 front brake disks on 17" wheels and; oohh that fitment ✔✔

It never gets boring; coming home, seeing new car parts have arrived 📫

The next part is ready; bmw e36 328i rebuild steering rack for .

Replacing the seals for the e36's steering racks is a straight forward job with much information to be found on the internet. The complete 24 piece Febi steering rack seal kit cost me around €55 including shipping and most notable to remember when trying to do this yourself; is to mark the clock spring tensioner before removing it and when reassembling the spring, tighten the bolt back to exactly the same position.

The pictures will speak for itself for the work involved and that's another part finished and ready for the swap. Thanks for reading and leave a like if you want to follow the rest of the build process on . Coming up next; let's talk wheels..

Just low, not slow 💯