SAWM Airsoft

EDGE BBU V2 black
CTM TAC Flatline Blatck
Guarder Reinforced Nozzle
All remains stock

Chrono @.28
FPS @.20 around 496 FPS
Setup
18:1 SHS
Viper Mosfet
SP130 Guarder
Lonex Nozzle
Stock EC piston head and piston
Maple Leaf 410mm inner barrel 6.02 mm
Type 0 cylinder

When your setup is too fast, you might be having misfeed. Apparently, in my case I used 13:1 gear ratio using my stock tappet plate. With the stock tappet, it contacts with my delayer for quite some time and then during full auto, it cant make full release before the delayer hits again the tappet plate causing me dry firing, misfeed or double bbs. The solution is either to cut the tappet or replace it with shorter delayer contact.

I chose to buy another tappet plate with short contact so it will release the tappet-nozzle earlier than before.

Blue-stock tappet plate
white-JG tappet plate

problem solved, no more misfeed.

It can also be solved by lower current setups by changing batteries but will run slower which defeats the purpose of optimum response.

During shimming process, be mindful about the clearances aside from the desired mesh of the gears. Or else, it will scour the other. See picture below the damage I made first time I shimmed 2 months ago. 😅

The gears still work but it is evident that I was not able to make a qc point for that clearance.

Current build:
SHS 18:1
Type 0 cylinder
500 mm TU tight barrel
TU torque motor
M120 spring
Selector plate modified to remove full auto
480 fps @.20g
Teflon mod cylinder head
Teflon mod hop-up rubber
Lonex nozzle

Brrrrttttt

Photo by Striker ONE

Spare gun for OP Decagon. EC 855 toy solider rattle camo.😅😂
Changed from 32:1 to 18:1
Restored full auto from previous DMR build.
450 fps .20g

E&C Airsoft 450 Fps Guide

Yes, E&C stock gun can possibly shoot 450 Fps with the following:
1. Teflon mod on hop-up
2. Teflon mod on cylinder head
3. Barrel length 363mm(stock or non stock)
4. Lonex nozzle

I have tried this on EC855 and it shoots 450 fps on stock spring.
No need to change stock cylinder as well.

Airsoft shimming: reduce the axial play while maintaining mesh and appropriate clearances.

Here's how I do mine.

Now, another AEG setup.
ENC 822
Piston Body: TU
Nozzle: Lonex
Spring: Stock
Piston and cylinder head: Stock(teflon mod)
Hop-up: Stock(teflon mod)
Cylinder: Stock(Ported, change from type to stock due to popping noise)
Barrel length: 363 mm(stock)
Gears: SHS 32:1
This setup fires consistently 450-453 FPS @ .20g but too slow response due to gear ratio. Before turning it back to assault (enabling full auto without changing selector plate), it was firing at 490 FPS @ .20g since it was a DMR build for Type 0 Cylinder with barrel length of 500mm.

FPS is normally a function of the compression system and the barrel length in an ideal scenario of no leaks and no mods on single sector gearset. Stock guns usually fires at 400-420 fps. However, it will be always about air available at compression, compression speed(spring) and the barrel. On this setup, contributors to the performance will most likely go to the nozzle, fixing possible leaks at cylinder head and barrel length. There's not much popping sound that means most available air is used to push the BB.

Gears will affect FPS only due to reduction of teeth:
1. Reduce sector gear teeth for earlier piston release
2. Using a DSG or TSG.

Sharing a setup below:
Guarder SP130
SHS 18:1
SHS Torque Motor
KJW Mosfet by KJW Airsoft Shop
Lonex Compression Set(POM)
Type 2 MA Cylinder
Stock EnC barrel 363mm
Stock Hop-Up Assembly

Shoots well on stock barrel! accuracy to be tested on games for performance reference of stock barrel.
450 FPS on .23g

Before, I'm using my tight barrel 6.02 Maple Leaf 300mm but I can hear burst of air popping as BB leaves the barrel.
This means that I still have extra air which is unutilized for more BB speed.

I have tried the same setup with 510mm barrel 6.02 TU but it only gave 440 fps on .23g.

Most likely, my compression system ideal barrel length is 363.

One possible leak source along the system is the hop-up rubber ends. Using teflon for extra sealing at the end of the hop-up rubber, it will potentially eliminate one source of leak giving more air to the BB.

Ensure that you don't put too much whereas the c-clip of the hop-up assembly will potentially interfere with the outer barrel. This scenario will not let our hop-up assembly lean against the gearbox causing more leaks and FPS drop.

Have you been in a situation that no matter what you do, your BBs keeps on flying up even your hop is completely off the adjustment?
It may be a matter of:
1. Our hop-up rubber is stuck in a position which is giving too much spin even though your adjustment is already off.
2. We might have installed a new hop-up rubber which might have a nub that is having a larger diameter and presses the hop-up even though it is off(see picture). Case in which you already have a preset hop at off position of the adjustment.
3. Our barrel is dirty

In my thoughts, BBs will only fly-up if it has much spin that is more than we want. Otherwise, if it doesn't have spin, it will be just parabolic trajectory. Would you agree?

Can't imagine a bent inner barrel is well as we will have trouble inserting it to the outer barrel. Too much force also to bend causing trajectory issues.

Right Photo: E&C stock nub
Left Photo: SRC nub(larger diameter) came from SRC hop-up

Using new nubs, hop-up rubber? make sure it will work well also with your chamber.

I played yesterday and my BBs are flying up with hop-up off and I remembered what I just did. I have nothing to check from the energy source because definitely it will be something about my hop-up or barrel. 😅😅

But definitely, fly-up might be a part of one's setup that might be helpful in longer engagements. Moreover, it can be still treated as function of bb weight, desired range and maybe hit technique.

Played yesterday and quite fired a number of mag and tommorrow will be another game day!
Therefore, my regular maintenance to clean out the barrel since I haven't cleaned in 3 game-days ago was executed. Cleaning was done using a coconut leaf mid rib(walis tingting) since I don't have the plastic rod ready.
1. Plug one end with microfiber that will not have much resistance with the tube walls so we can still push it.
2. Pour some alcohol on the open end.
3. cap one end with thumb and shake!!!
4. Push using the coconut lead midrib back and fort.
5. Inspect using a flashlight. Clean again if not satisfied.

I also skewered the microfiber on the stick and push/twirl it directly and still does the cleaning!

My very first AEG EC 118 HK416 (all stock 380 fps). It's a second hand unit which I immediately shimmed, changed to carbon steel gears, changed the spring, installed a mosfet and changed as well the compression components. As a newbie, I experienced the following:
1. Tools selection
2. Scratches on spur gear due to axial clearances of the bevel gear to the spur gear.
3. No improvement on FPS after the upgrade
4. Screeches due to motor installation issues
5. Loud firing noise
6. Compression system integrities
7. Misfeed

Soon I'll be posting my journey how I cleared these things and be happy with my new hobby experience.