Kogod Wine Merchant

Tuscan Celebration: 2021 Montevertine Rosso Release!

I'm happy to offer the signature wine from the greatest Radda estate, the new 2021 Montevertine Rosso di Toscana, in bottle and magnum. We also have the latest 2022 release of the lighter-bodied and ultra-elegant Pian del Ciampolo. And, no Montevertine offer would be complete without a list of their top cuvée, the singular Le Pergole Torte. This Chianti address located in the high altitude setting of Radda personifies the magic of Sangiovese with its quintessential combo of energy and intensity. There are more terrific Chianti estates now than ever, but there is only one Montevertine!

Montevertine's 18-hectare estate rests high at 425 meters in Radda, one of the coolest zones in Chianti Classico. These limestone soils coupled with a unique climate have a sense of transparency and grace that stands out immediately. The deft use of French barrique (15% new oak at most) is impressive, adding concentration and texture while still harnessing the pure, lithe qualities inherent in Montevertine's wines.

Sergio Manetti left the consortium in 1981 due to Chianti Classico laws, which required the addition of Trebbiano in the blend. Even though the law changed in 1995 to allow 100% Sangiovese in Chianti Classico, today, they still opt for IGT status. Sergio's son, Martino, played an active role starting in 1989 and took over upon his father's passing in 2000.

Burgundy Quiet Confidence: Domaine Duroché

I didn't need any validation of the quality of Domaine Duroché's wines, but a July tasting with Pierre in Gevrey Chambertin further drove home the point of how transcending his wines are.

They are models for the fine tannins that Gevrey is capable of, with the inherent structure and dark earth traits synonymous with the village. Duroché's wines have a hallmark featherweight texture and lacy minerality unique in this famous northern village known for brawn. This harmony between the reflection of place and a lifted, graceful sensibility stands out first when you taste. Tannins are sleek and polished, but the new oak is integrated as well as any address in Burgundy. You'll find ultra-concentrated red and black berry fruit showing fresh and primary even after a decade in bottle.

Whether you're a seasoned Burgundy collector or just interested in finding the region's most (relatively) under-the-radar superstars, Pierre Duroché's wines are not to be missed. Today's Premier Cru and Grand Crus are as good as it gets for the money in Red Burgundy!

Natural Bravado: Prieuré Roch

Henry-Frédéric Roch, the late co-director of DRC and nephew of Lalou Bize-Leroy, established his domaine in 1988. Around this time, he saw a wooden box of Château Prieuré-Lichine and thought Prieuré had a nice ring to it. But it was when Henri purchased some vineyards from DRC that his eponymous project was truly born.

Wines here begin with organic and biodynamic farmed land, 100% whole cluster fermentation, new oak influence, and next to zero sulfur additions. They are extremely spicy and elegant, with a beef bouillon note that I associate with being the domaine's real calling card.

While Prieuré Roch's wines from past decades showed a lot of variation of soundness due to the sans soufre approach, in the last several years, in my opinion, they've become a gold standard in the non-sulfur category. A 2013 bottling of Le Cloud was crunchy, high-toned, and alive in a way that I wish every wine would be like. These are soulful and singular, and it's my pleasure to offer wines directly from the domaine.

Starturn Piemonte: Cascina Penna-Currado

They propelled one of the most iconic wineries in Italy to new heights, and now Elena Penna and Luca Currado of Vietti fame are turning the page in Piemonte. I was lucky to sit down with both this summer for lunch and taste the first release from their personal new project, Cascina Penna-Currado.

If Vietti produced wines of intensity and panache, this considerably boutique endeavor shows the more classic roots that reflect their personal preferences––wines of transparency, grace, and site-specificity. Moving from Castiglione, the family's new home is Serralunga, where a 1554-founded property has been revitalized. While the first Barolo release won't come until 2027, the wines today from the 2022 vintage are all I needed to know about the direction things are headed.

The critical takeaway is that the focus will be working with cooler sites––vineyards with orientations and elevations that mitigate heat and drought. The truth is that the vineyards that once produced elegant Barolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera are now struggling with the forces of nature. Preserving acidity and allowing for a long growing season with mature phenolic ripeness is now the modus operandi.

Albariño Border Battle Royale: Nanclares v. Seabra

Tonight marks a long-awaited showdown between the two Albariño producers that have resonated with us most over the past few vintages: Nanclares y Prieto and Luis Seabra. Though hailing from opposite sides of the Spain-Portugal border, both serve as shining examples of why Albariño deserves its place alongside our favorite Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet wines. Each has a graceful harmony punctuated by the salty sea breeze from their vine's proximity to the wild Atlantic Ocean of northwest Iberia.

"Alberto Nanclares": The flagship wine from Rias Baixas' Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto. A blend of eight east-facing parcels on decomposed granite and sandy loam. Aged in used French oak barrels. Lemon, pear, honeysuckle, with zesty lingering acidity. Structured yet seamless.

Seabra's Granito Cru: The greatest white (IMHO) of Portugal's most respected winemaker. From granite soils in the birthplace of Alvarinho, Monçao e Melgaço in Vinho Verde. Fermented and aged in 1,000 and 2,000-liter wooden oval vats. Green apple, white peach, and oyster shell-like briny salinity. More fluid and round in comparison.

I've recently focused on showcasing why Albariño stands out as our most exhilarating white wine of today's Old World. With pricing at $53 and $66, these two estates are precisely where you need to turn when expecting the highest quality and want to diverge from Burgundy's exceedingly rare and pricier landscape. Nanclares and Seabra are simply the truth.

Pouilly-Fumé Smokeshow: 2020 Dagueneau Silex

Dagueneau's Sauvignon Blanc cuvées from Loire's Pouilly-Fumé might transcend their appellation more than any domaine in France. Labeling them as merely Sauvignon Blanc or Pouilly-Fumé is like calling Beethoven a classical composer, Stanley Kubrick a film director, or Leonardo da Vinci a painter. It's not just about being the best in their fields––they redefined the very boundaries of what their crafts could achieve.

Dagueneau's white wines are often poured at dinners alongside Burgundy's greats, and there's no missed beat. Yes, they differ in leaning towards tropical citrus, but the magic is in pushing primary fruit flavors behind a wall of terroir and savory notes that take precedence. Add their ability to transform and improve with bottle age, and it's easy to see why no other Pouily Fumé plays in this same field.

Didier Dagueneau seemed to reach worldwide celebrity status when we all learned in 2008 of his tragic passing in a plane crash. Today, Louis-Benjamin follows his father's approach in the vines and cellar and the wines continue to define the greatness of Pouilly Fumé's potential.

The Spring of Languedoc: Mas de Daumas Gassac

Outside of the iconic Cabernet Sauvignon addresses in Bordeaux, one name in France can go toe to toe with these chateaux: Mas de Daumas Gassac. As always, the provenance of older wines is a critical factor in the quality you'll find in the glass, and I'm thrilled to offer this mint condition collection from the Languedoc's star. And, the exciting 2021 release also harkens back to the more classical wines of the domaine's past growing seasons.

Made of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Tannat, and Malbec, the wines highlight espresso, dark chocolate, cigar box, brambly blackberries, and savory spices. Languedoc's cooling influences and limestone bedrock have long stood out as a beacon for freshness. Alcohol levels have remained modest through stylistic shifts, never taking Bordeaux's cues when things drastically changed in the '80s.

Mas de Daumas Gassac was established in 1970 when Véronique and Aimé Guibert came across an abandoned farmhouse owned by the Daumas family along the Gassac River in the Herault. Underground water springs and surrounding mountains created a microclimate mirroring Bordeaux's Médoc, so they planted vine material from First Growth chateaux in Bordeaux. The region has an abundance of 100-plus-year-old plantings, with a dry climate favorable for organic viticulture. Link in bio to purchase.

Sisters of Mercy: Mugneret-Gibourg of Vosne-Romanée

If tending vines with the utmost care is the starting point for how our selections come to fruition, we should finally talk about The Sisters.
Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée, known simply as "The Sisters," are at the helm of one of Vosne Romanée's most storied estates. While so many Burgundy domaines have seen their celebrity quickly increase tenfold, Mugneret-Gibourg's rise after the sisters took the helm is Vosne's most obvious example.

Yes, their Clos Vougeot and Ruchottes-Chambertin parcels are situated in the very sweet spot of both Grand Crus, showcasing a depth and grandeur that stand out even from other elite domaines. But, without question, their cuvées from Nuits Saint Georges are where the talent of the sisters's work in the vines, cuverie, and cellar becomes crystal clear. While Chaignots and Vignes Rondes sit in the northern section of N-S-G, where Vosne's suave and elegant personality can take hold, these two are the first bottles I'd reach for from the village without a second thought. They are simply among the most delicious bottles of wine in all of Burgundy.

Stylistically, the wines most stand out for their silken texture, sweet primary fruit, and myriad of spices. All grapes are de-stemmed before seeing a 5-day cold soak prior to fermentation in concrete tanks. On average, wines see one punchdown and two pumpovers per day. The Ruchottes Chambertin and Clos Vougeot remain in concrete for 3 days after fermentation has concluded to pick up more tannin, color, and flavor.

The Premier Crus see around 35% new oak (spread between four different coopers). Echezeaux sees 60% new oak, while Ruchottes Chambertin and Clos Vougeot see 80% new oak. Interestingly, depending on the vintage, the tasting will conclude with either of the latter.

Next Gen in Chablis: Vocoret's Bas de Chapelot

Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are among the latest producers you should know about in Chablis. With guidance from family and neighbors, including Vincent Dauvissat, the wines from this young domaine are already in Chablis' lead pack. The wines are rich in fruit, yet they're still founded on a Chablisienne core of bright minerality––the kind of white that appeals to the broadest net of palates imaginable.

Eleni and Edouard met while working harvest in New Zealand. In 2012, Edouard’s family gave the newlyweds their own five hectares of vines to tend to as they saw fit. They sold off the fruit for the first several years while tailoring the vineyard, then produced their first vintages in a family member’s garage. Formerly, Eleni worked as Vincent Dauvissat’s assistant winemaker, where she adopted much of his farming techniques, and Edouard apprenticed in Pouilly-Fuissé. This was an up-and-coming domaine, but now, after a few vintages, it's clear Vocoret is elite and will always be among the first Chablis names we reference.

Today's offering highlights Les Bas de Chapelot, located at the foot of Premier Cru Montée de Tonnere, famed for its ideal southern exposure and Grand Cru-like dramatics. At $67, it's one of Chablis' most incredible value gems today. It has a deep, saturating presence, an intense grip, and layers of citrus and white orchard fruits unfolding throughout the long finish.

Sergio Manetti originally planted just two hectares at this vacation property in 1967. With the unexpected glowing reception of his first vintage (1971), he began to focus exclusively on winemaking. Manetti believed in the greatness of 100% Sangiovese from this hillside, and in 1981, due to the laws of Chianti Classico requiring the addition of Trebbiano in the blend, he chose to leave the consortium.

This was a radical move at the time, and it is hard to believe now, as so many of the great wines of Chianti Classico are produced with 100% Sangiovese. (Even though the law was changed in 1995 to allow 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico, many producers opt to maintain their "lower" IGT status). The estate gained a loyal following at home and abroad, with Sergio's son Martino taking an active role with his father in 1989. In 2000, Martino took complete control upon his father's passing.

The 18-hectare estate rests high at 425 meters in Radda, one of the coolest zones in Chianti Classico. The soil is heavily dominated by limestone, and coupled with the site's climate, Montevertine has a sense of transparency and grace that stands out immediately. Le Pergole Torte is sourced from the estate's oldest vines and highest-elevation plantings. Aging in French barrique with a maximum of 15% new wood. The deft use of barrique here is so impressive, adding concentration and texture while still harnessing the pure, lithe qualities inherent in the site.

Paint it Red: PYCM Goes Rouge

Outside of DRC, no acronym in Burgundy lights up collector's eyes like Pierre-Yves'. Since 2003, he's been the ultimate expression of laser-guided Chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune. He was even quoted as saying, "Riesling is my model." And that tracks, as his whites' acid-driven and linear style stood out from the pack on day one. Many, many vintages later, Pierre-Yves decided to produce a small amount of wine from a few select parcels in the Côte de Nuits: a Vosne-Romanée, a Nuits-Saint-Georges, and the famous Premier Cru Aux Boudots that sits on the border between Vosne and NSG. Like the whites, the reds are sleek and backed by that mineral skeletal frame that makes them so brisk and easy to drink, plus those added Pinot aromatics are a new and welcomed expression from his Chassagne-Montrachet cellar. A new wine for us this year is the Monthelie Premier Cru Les Riottes––a great option for lovers of Volnay.

Julien Sunier quickly became one of our favorite producers in a region full of unbelievably talented vignerons. Though Sunier's originally from Dijon, you can't help but be reminded of the wines of Chambolle-Musigny when you try his Fleurie due to their haunting grace and depth. He sources his neutral barrels from Chambolle's own Christophe Roumier, where he first worked.

Of the 10 Crus, Fleurie is commonly seen as the most elegant and dubbed the Queen of Beaujolais. Sunier practices organic viticulture and employs 100% whole cluster fermentation at low temperatures, preserving a sweet red berry trait that meets soft contours in structure. His Gamays are outrageously floral and energetic and can develop in the cellar for years after release. Visiting with Sunier in 2012 put his new domaine on my radar, and in the years since then, I've watched him gain traction with Cru Beaujolais fanatics and all lovers of charming, mid-weight wines.

Alto Piemonte's One & Only: Ferrando Carema

No single estate defines Alto Piemonte like Ferrando Carema. In the region of Canavese, sitting at the foot of Monte Bianco, these terraced vineyards of Carema are planted to Nebbiolo. Here, the variety is portrayed with an alpine inflection different from Barolo and Barbaresco but with a track record of aging entirely on par. Ferrando's vines sit in a south-facing amphitheater of slate soils overlooking the Dora Baltea River that runs through the Valle d'Aosta into northwestern Piedmont. Unlike their more famous southern neighbors, vines here are trained high up on pergola, or "Tupin", to harness maximum sunlight. The entirety of the Carema appellation reaches only 16 hectares of plantings, with Ferrando controlling just 2.5.

Importer Neal Rosenthal is famous for his work with producers like Fourrier, Paolo Bea, and Cappellano. Still, his words on Ferrando have always stuck with me, once declaring that if he were given only one wine to drink, it would be Ferrando's Carema. Bottles returning to the late 70s are renowned for their freshness and unparalleled clarity that belie the underlying power.

When Neal began importing European wines to the US in 1980, Ferrando was his first. At that time, Carema was unknown here, and although its following is still relatively small compared to that of Barolo, those who line their cellars with Conterno and Mascarello all know the secret of Alto Piemonte.

Burgundy Bubble Champ: Domaine Dandelion Pet Nat & Cidre

My favorite Burgundy introduction from the last several years occurred in January when I traveled to Domaine Dandelion in the Hautes Côtes––miles above the better-known vines that have been producing the world's most enviable Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for hundreds of years. Morgane Seuillot and Christian Knott set a new path to making the most labor-intensive and thought-provoking natural wines from 4 hectares of organically farmed vines.

In the context of "natural", I've tasted no Burgundian producer that exceeded the purity and consistency of Dandelion's wines. Knott's background as past winemaker at Chandon de Briailles tracks, as during his stay, the domaine began to produce some of the best un-sulfured wines in all the Côte d'Or.

At Dandelion, all wines are bottled by hand––a process that lends an added dimension of clarity and refinement with an unadulterated sense of place. Still Pinot Noir marks the lion's share of the domaine's bottlings, but it's their two sparklers that immediately set a new standard for me.

We'll be offering the new Pinot Noir release later this year, but for now, I recommend you feast on these two outrageously delicious sparklers, especially as we approach the holidays. The extremely micro-production Dandelion wines show the best face of the newer generation in Burgundy, turning to the most effort-intensive practices of the past.

Willamette Apogee: Lingua Franca Chardonnay & Pinot Noir

Master Sommelier Larry Stone and Dominique Lafon of Meursault's Comtes Lafon became familiar with Eola-Amity Hills through the Seven Springs Vineyard. They soon planted vines and built a winery next door (Founded in 2015). They also hired Burgundian winemaker Thomas Savre, who previously worked at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, bringing another skilled and meticulous eye into the fold.

The Jory and volcanic soils here in Eola-Amity proved to be the ideal landing place for Lingua Franca. They discovered a magic combination of minerality and ripe texture in this particular part of Willamette Valley—the result personifying Burgundy's elusive elegance without compromising Oregon's terroir. The wines from this legendary group of names have surpassed expectations.

Syrah's California Dream: 2021 Piedrasassi Rim Rock Vineyard

Santa Barbara's cool-climate wines have growingly become one of my obsessions. For me, the most integral name in the array of labels is Sashi Moorman. Domaine de la Côte is all about Pinot Noir, but his first and personal label, Piedrasassi, offers downright delicious and complex reflections of Syrah. Of his cuvées, the top of the ladder is undoubtedly the Rim Rock Vineyard Syrah––it's the wine you want to pour blind alongside the Northern Rhône's usual suspects.

Partial whole cluster ferments, picking before freshness is lost, and aging in larger 500-liter barrels ensure the lively, crushed rock virtues that make Northern Rhone Syrah unique are preserved here in Santa Barbara. This California Syrah is a big departure from the state's norm: Blackberry, lavender, violet, black pepper, roasted meats and roasted herbs. I find California Syrah is often marred by candied fruit and milk chocolate tones––a total non-starter. What I love about Piedrasassi's Rim Rock is that it hits Rhône's Syrah profile directly on its head––there's nothing lost in translation.

Sashi has been one of America's greatest winemakers over the last decades. His Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay get most of the attention, but this smaller, personal label is closest to his heart. There's an unapologetic authenticity that's impossible to miss in Rim Rock and 2021 is one of the all-time great editions!

Thankfully, the secret of Domaine Dandelion of Burgundy remains intact. These natural wines are not only crisp and clean to their core but also transcendent of their given categories. Today, I'm happy to offer the new release of Morgane Seuillot and Christian Knott's Pet Nat and Cidre. We expect to have the latest vintage of Pinot Noir later this year, but for now, feast on these delicious sparklers that are prime for Thanksgiving or a simple Tuesday night dinner at home.

The Great Italian White: I Clivi's Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano) comes from 75-year-old vines in the Brazan vineyard. In Collio, these revered marl soils are known as Ponca. The Friulano variety can be tricky, often succumbing to fatty and overly glossy characteristics as the acidity can drop off quickly while grapes are on the vine. Ferdinando Zanusso has fought against this through his meticulous organic work in the vineyard and regularly sampling grapes before harvest to ensure picking occurs at the optimal moment. He also began to block malolactic fermentation to retain tension and verve.

I can't overemphasize just how thrilling the Brazan is to drink. The nose has a massive brioche character derived from the long aging on lees. There's a seductive gossamer texture that's perfectly proportioned to the ripe fruit and laser-focused acidity on the palate. And, while creamy coconut characteristics sound like an impossible feat to execute being balanced by bright freshness, that's precisely what Brazan does that ultimately made my head spin.

Some wines take a moment to pull you in and reveal their greatness, but this Friulano's perfection is made abundantly clear upon first sip. The best of Collio can show rich textural and exotic fruit notes, OR they're built on mineral drive full of mouth-coating salinity. I've found only one bottling that displays both, and with each year in bottle, Brazan's magic is divulged even more.

No winery in Piedmont or the world exemplifies the spirit of collective contribution like Produttori del Barbaresco. While the single-vineyard, or Cru, Barbarescos garner much of the fame, they have not released the blended Riserva, known today as "Don Fiorino," since 1990.

It's named after the town priest, Don Fiorino Morengo, who gathered all 19 growers to begin this cooperative. The brightness and intensity of this vintage is in full effect. It's a wine to revisit for decades, but a recent bottle opened was singing––with a good decant, the fireworks are already on full display.

Today, 51 growers are behind the production's backbone, covering nine single-vineyard Barbarescos: Asili, Rabajà, Pora, Montestefano, Ovello, Pajè, Montefico, Muncagota, and Rio Sordo. The Produttori is simply the best destination for timeless Barbaresco that still exuberates the sophistication of today's polish in the cellar. 2016 is one of the greatest Barbaesco vintages in the last 50 years. Link in bio to purchase.

Super Tuscan Superstar: Trinoro's Le Cupole

My fondness for Tuscany is no secret, but I generally keep Super Tuscans at arm's length. The category has overwhelmingly spoken less about place and more about a global-capitulating, one-size-fits-all model. Of course, Sassicaia is the prime that breaks this mold, but finding affordable examples is a challenge. That all changed after discovering Le Cupole.

Andrea Franchetti of Tenuta di Trinoro is based in the remote southeast corner of Tuscany. His second label, Le Cupole, is about accessibility with the same sophistication as their top single-vineyard wines. The property sits in a remote southeast corner of Tuscany with clay and limestone soils mirroring Bordeaux's right bank. The result is an Italian value guaranteed to wow a diverse group of palates.

Le Cupole is blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. There's an abundance of black cherry, dark chocolate, to***co, and a tarry scorched earth note. However, it grabbed my attention with its remarkable sense of balance, freshness, and deliciousness rooted in the tell-tale characteristics of those Bordeaux varieties, followed by a lingering minerality only select Super Tuscans deliver. I stock up on this secret value every vintage.

Ruwer's Rarefied Air: Karthäuserhof Dry Riesling

The world's greatest and most age-worthy dry Riesling may come from a few select pockets, but among historical gems, the 1335-founded Karthäuserhof estate reaches rarefied air. The distinctive flavor profile found in their wines makes them an relatively easy find in blind tastings––an authentic Wine of Place, typicity at its finest!

Ruwer Valley Rieslings are most recognized for their delicacy and mineral spring purity. On the towering Karthäuserhofberg vineyard (above), these attributes are met with a special grandeur, placing these at the top of the heap. With time in bottle, Karthäuserhof develops wispy pine needle inflections and a hypnotic iron streak of super-fine minerality.

Devonian slate is found throughout the Ruwer, and its unique pink-copper hue releases iron-rich minerals into the soil. Bands of clay throughout bring advantageous water retention, and the pine forest above the vineyard protects from harsh winds. All these elements are crucial in endowing apricot, green apple, and pink grapefruit notes that verge into a pronounced smokey mineral finale.

Karthäserhof was initially founded as a monastery in 1335 and is today recognized as the 8th oldest winegrowing estate in the world. I'm always searching for back-vintage wines from this fabled house, and today's collection has entered its prime drinking window.