Josefina Navarrete

Freitas began cooking at home at a young age alongside her father. An intensely introverted child, she was also a devoted viewer of Basque chef Karlos Arguiñano, Spain's most well-known TV chef, who has been on the air for more than 30 years. After school, she would head home to watch his show and then attempt to make some of the dishes she'd seen.

At 19, she decided to attend culinary school in Bilbao, where she learned traditional cooking, which she believes is essential before one can think about creating "vanguard" cuisine. The experience also helped her lose some of her shyness. "I let go of those labels I'd given myself and started focusing on what I love," she said. "That's when I began to flourish." She went on to work for some of Spain's biggest names, including chef Jordi Butrón in Barcelona, chef Andoni Luis Aduriz in San Sebastián and the Roca brothers in Girona.

After returning home and opening A Tafona, Freitas' relentless work schedule made it nearly impossible to travel, but she soaked up everything she could from the few trips she was able to take. Some of her dishes have roots in those experiences, and her keen sense of smell and vivid taste memory allow her to know exactly how various flavours will work together even before she's tested them. Also, ditching the menu's à la carte options freed her from worrying about what would sell, which allowed her to create more of the vegetable-focused dishes she loves.

We weren't allowed to stay to watch the sunset, but the captain recommended a spot on Jiwani Beach nearby. When we arrived, a group of visitors from the city of Sibi, more than 1,000km to the north-east, had already gathered to witness the spectacle.

"The long journey is worth the effort," one of them said, "because a Makran sunset is like no other. As the sun drops in the sky it turns many beautiful colours: from yellow to orange, then streaked with red like a pomegranate, and finally shades of purple. When it disappears into the night, we say our prayers and hope that by the grace of God it will rise again next morning. And that Inshallah, God willing, we ourselves will live to see another day."
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Seals have inhabited Ireland's coastline for more than 7,000 years, and the country's native grey seals and common seals play a pivotal role in balancing the ocean's ecosystem. In the early 1900s, the animals nearly vanished from Irish seas due to overhunting, but since they received federal protection in 1976, their numbers have started to recover.
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Other striking tartans designed by Halley have very different inspirations. In contrast to Brian Wilton's more optimistic climate-change tartan, for example, Halley's 2020 Climate Emergency tartan draws its colours "from the Earth on fire – green, blue and white for the Earth, and orange red and yellow for the flames".
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