Dick's Boards

F L O O D C O A T! I wanted the smoothest surface, so what better way to achieve that than to flood coat the table top and let it self level into it?! With Superclear epoxy. It took about a quart to make it happen. It's shaping up to be about ⅛" thick. Look at that drip in second video!

First top coat! A nice, thin layer of Superclear epoxy to seal out any bubbles that might come up through the next couple of layers

I got this board of white oak from a friend. It had some bug damage and had ¾" grooves cut into it, so I decided to have a some fun with it and try out doing an inlay of paduak and mixing different colors of and see what I would get. I tried laying out the original BMW M colors (blue, purple, and red) with Cobalt Blue, a mixture of Cobalt Blue , Imperial Red, and Pure White , and an inlay of paduak. It ended up making a nice little

These boards are milled down then sanded up to 400 grit sand paper to make the boards buttery smooth. I use cutting board oil and wood wax for cutting boards to finish and protect them and bring out the warmth and depth of the grain! These pictures do not do them justice!

The color of this river cutting board was suggested by a friend! The color is Imperial Red mixed into Liquid Glass epoxy.

These slabs are milled down then sanded up to 400 grit sand paper to make the boards buttery smooth. I use cutting board oil and wood wax for cutting boards to finish and protect them and bring out the warmth and depth of the grain! These pictures do not do them justice!

@ Dallas, Georgia

This cutting board color was inspired by the Chicago River during the past St. Patrick's Day holiday where the city dye the river green! This board used Liquid Glass and Superclear epoxies and Hunter Green

These slabs are milled down then sanded up to 400 grit sand paper to make the boards buttery smooth. I use cutting board oil and wood wax for cutting boards to finish and protect them and bring out the warmth and depth of the grain! These pictures do not do them justice!

The underside of this table is chamfered, sanded, and sealed! This table got it's final coating of Superclear Epoxy on it's underside. With it going to end up on the coast in Mexico Beach, FL, I want to make sure it's protected from the salt air, so it will be completely encased in epoxy! Tomorrow, I sand the drips and runs off the top and clean up the live edges, then put on the first round of epoxy, sealing the grain and minimizing the bubbles in the final coats!

My favorite part about making cutting boards is finishing them! And here is 4 videos of their transformation to the deep, rich finished product!

I sand them up to 400 grit then apply Cutting Board Oil. They'll sit like this for 24 hours before getting a coating of Walrus Oil Cutting Board Wax.

Thin coating the bottom side of the table with Superclear epoxy! This table is going to a beach house so it's going to have to deal with a lot of salt in the air and humidity!

Filling the voids on the edges of green river cutting board and the table. Also filling the minor voids on this red river cutting board.

The red river cutting board has little in the ways of voids and holes, so I was able to machine it down to it's final dimensions and fill these imperfections. I should be able to finish it and the green river cutting boards in a day!

So I final dimension this table to 40" x 22". After sanding both sides down with 60 grit sand paper, the underside revealed to be GORGEOUS! I asked which side the client liked better and now this would be the topside. So I gave it a coating of Superclear epoxy to eliminate tooling marks made by the router, then I mixed up some Hunter Green into a small amount of epoxy for filling voids in the river cutting board. After that, I mixed in Caribbean Blue pigment into the remaining epoxy and filled voids and bug holes on the table!

@ Dallas, Georgia

Milled down the table flat. Tomorrow I final dimension and rough sand it! Then I fill any voids with Superclear epoxy. Once that is done, I route the long edges, final sand, and then finish it!

Got a few things done today! Milled down this river cutting board and started on finishing where I fill in voids. Then I'll start sanding it down and finishing it!

The first pour of this walnut and epoxy river table! This will have two more steps/pours before it's finally milled and finished! Today's pour is done with Liquid Glass and
Caribbean Blue . Should take about 1¾ gallons of epoxy when done.

Filled this cutting board the rest of the way with epoxy since the shipment came today!

This board was filled with Liquid Glass and Hunter Green. Should be able to pop it out of the mold on Friday!

Built another form!

So another project completed! Just a picture of my friend, Emily, and her wiener, Nugget Billups, placed on a piece of white oak she provided. The sides and chamfer is stained with Java gel stain then the entire thing is coated with Superclear epoxy resin, burying the photograph under the epoxy.

Message or email me for pricing and info on how to get yours!

Relatively clear day today. Made progress on 3 projects. Stained one piece with Java gel stain. Milled down and prepped another small cheese board for more then poured in a second round of FGCI Superclear and Cobalt Blue . Then built the form and set the piece for the 1 ¾ gallon resin pour! Sealed with the edges of the wood with FGCI Liquid Glass so bubbles won't come up during the main pour!

In case you didn't know this, the caps on FGCI epoxies, if not different sizes, are different colors so you don't put the wrong caps onto the wrong bottles. In this case, white on part A and black on part B. That way you don't mix the caps and bottles up and have the caps get stuck on.

Ask me how I know...

The small glue up that shouldn't be, haha! Bug damage on the end cause the end of this to crack off, sonic have to reattach it before I can pour in the epoxy in.

Trying a new process on prepping porous wood for more epoxy. Stupid rain has me inside doing only the small projects 🤨

**SOLD**

Walnut slab cutting and serving board! I wish I took before pics of this one. It was pretty well mangled up the chainsaw that cut it out of the log and the whole piece started out 3" at the thickest part, about 2" at the thinnest and had a ~170° "bow" cut into it! Now it is two pieces and this half is about 1⅝" thick with FGCI Superclear and blue/green
These slabs are milled down then sanded up to 400 grit sand paper to make the boards buttery smooth. I use cutting board oil and wood wax for cutting boards to finish and protect them and bring out the warmth and depth of the grain! These pictures do not do them justice!

The first, and hopefully not the last, end grain cutting board! End grain boards are easier on the edge of your knife blades which let you cut longer between sharpenings. This one is made from milled then glued up walnut slab with the sap wood turned into the center to give the effect of 5 different Rorschach test patterns on each side! What do you see in this board?! Also, knot and insect holes were filled with FGCI Superclear epoxy and Liberty Copper .

I think the most exciting thing about this particular board is that it's walnut and walnut lightens over time, so the grain will come out more as it ages!

This board was milled down then sanded up to 400 grit sand paper to make it buttery smooth. I use cutting board oil and wood wax for cutting boards to finish and protect them and bring out the warmth and depth of the grain! These pictures do not do them justice!

A 40" x 23" glue up. I told you guys that those walnut slabs weren't for cutting boards!