A Stitch In Time's Line

Isn’t Elizabeth pretty in blue? 🩵

This dainty 1770s gown is made from floral print cotton in a lovely shade of sky blue. It is accessories with a dainty, lace-trimmed cap and fichu that tucks into the front of the bodice. A pleated underpetticoat is included to properly support the gown’s full skirt.

Gown, fichu, and cap are from a Keepers Dolly Duds pattern. I made the simple underpetticoat using the instructions from Burnley & Trowbridge Company’s petticoat sew-along videos. Their Historical Sew Along Series is a wonderful resource if you are interested in sewing 18th century attire.

This pale-lilac silk and lace Edwardian gown feels perfect for an afternoon garden party in late spring. Are there lilacs blooming where you live?

Pastel colors, contrasting textures, frilly laces, ruffles, and bows all harmonize in this one-of-a-kind ensemble, fashioned using the “Anne” pattern by Pemberley Threads, and silk taffeta & figured silk from Renaissance Fabrics.

This sophisticated Edwardian shirtwaist and skirt ensemble is newly listed in my Etsy shop. Ann Van Doren Designs beautifully tailored “Puff Sleeve Blouse” and “Edwardian Walking Skirt” patterns make for a simple yet stylish outfit quintessential to the early 20th century. ❤️

The last image was one of my inspirations: a page from “The Delineator” women’s magazine, dated June 1898, featuring some simply stunning “Stylish Shirt Waists”. 😍

Working with this sober black and tan striped fabric inspired me to look into the significance of black dresses in the mid-Victorian era.

Of course, black is commonly associated with mourning, and the early 1860s were certainly years of widespread grieving in both England and America. April of 1861 witnessed the beginning of the U.S. Civil War, which was to leave hundreds-of-thousands of bereft wives and mothers in its wake. The death of Prince Albert in the same year caused all England to don black mourning attire in sympathy with Queen Victoria.

Victorian widows were expected to mourn publicly for two years, wearing strictly black until the last six months when other somber colors such as gray, white, and lavender could be incorporated into their wardrobe. A striped gown like this one would have been acceptable during this period of “half mourning”.

And yet, not every Victorian photograph of a woman in black depicts someone in mourning. Black gowns were worn in the everyday lives of mid-Victorian women of all ages and social classes. Just as it is today, the black dress was considered both elegant and practical, and appropriate for day and evening wear.

I hope you enjoyed this little bit of fashion history! Don’t forget that this black-striped 1860s day dress will be in my Etsy shop on Monday at 3 pm, Eastern Time. Two available! 🖤

Back by popular demand, this 1860s striped homespun gown in both the original burgundy color and in a black version of the same fabric set! Two gowns in each color (four dresses total) will be listed in my Etsy shop Monday, April 10 at 3 pm Eastern Time.

More photos of the black striped gown are coming soon! For more views of the burgundy striped gown, please scroll down and see my post from March 8. The only change to the design is a new style of tiny buttons down the front. Pretty sure I am the only one who would even notice the difference? 🧐😂

Pattern credit to Pemberley Threads. ❤️

The late 1870s - early 1880s were an interesting (if brief) period of fashion known as the “Natural Form Era”. During these years the heavily draped and gathered bustle gowns of the earlier 1870s gave way to a slim, upright silhouette with a focus on contrasting colors and clean, sharp lines.

The patterns I used for this early 1880s gown are by Thimbles and Acorns. The fitted bodice and shapely skirt of the “First Impressions” dress pattern are lovely, but I was most delighted with the “Waterfall Bustle” design. Made by pleating contrasting fabrics together in pretty folds and topped with a dramatic bow, it truly MAKES the dress in my opinion! 💙

I am pleased to present this lilac silk 1860s day dress, my second tester gown for the “Meg” pattern by Pemberley Threads! 🌿 This gown will be listed in my Etsy shop tomorrow at 10 am EST.

1860s trim designs could be incredibly intricate. I played around with several arrangements of this lovely lilac and green trim before deciding on this graceful, three-loop design for the skirt. The next step was to develop my design on paper, scaling it to allow for six evenly-spaced motifs around the hem. After transferring the design to my fabric, I pinned the trim in place over my markings and hand-stitched it down.

I recently had the pleasure of pattern testing the newly released “Meg” 1860s Day Dress pattern from Pemberley Threads. With its high, lace-trimmed neckline, wide pagoda sleeves, and full skirt, this lovely design captures the essence of early 1860s fashion. As with all Pemberley Threads patterns, the pattern pieces are expertly drafted and the instructions clear and simple.

While the pattern is named after sweet Meg March from “Little Women”, this burgundy-stripe homespun fabric reminded me very much of Jo March. Keeping in mind Jo’s practical taste in dress, I trimmed the gown simply with a row of buttons and a gentlemanly bow at the collar. Perhaps the lace undersleeves are a bit more feminine and frilly than Jo would have liked, but “dear me, let us be elegant or die”. 😉

Corded petticoats were still being worn under day dresses in the early 1860s. I have made one to accompany this gown from a soft-white linen, with ten rows of cording for plenty of structure.

Gown and petticoat will be listed in my Etsy shop at 10 am Eastern Time on Saturday, March 11th. ♥️