Dapper Haberdasher

Dapper Haberdasher

Providing unique, high-quality vintage & contemporary menswear since 2016, NYC. M.ebay.com/sch/i.htm

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 06/10/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a swell tie!) Starting to feel a chill in the air? A wool tie can make all the difference on a day such as this, and Wednesday’s is no exception: this vintage fringe-tipped beauty features a bright plaid of blue, teal, red, yellow and white set against a black ground, and ensures that you remain both warm and stylish! Wool, manufacturer and retailer unknown, c.1940s/early 1950s. Good to very good vintage condition, mending to front and back approx. 14” from tip (not visible when worn), some faint spotting and discoloration; 49.5”x3.625”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 05/10/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a cool swing tie!) The condition of Tuesday’s hasn’t past through the last seventy years unscathed and isn’t as pristine as my typical ; nonetheless, I love the pattern and feel impelled to share it with my lovely followers! This wild deco swing tie just exudes raw, untamed energy, taking the forms of ribbons of clouds, marbled paper, or electric waves, in a red, navy, and off-white colorways, c.mid-late 1940s. If you’re careful knotting it up, it should last you decades more to come! Fair to good condition, recently cleaned; damage to front blade ~13” from tip (just under knotting area), pinhole and color bleeding on neckband 22.25” from tip, a pinhole along front blade edge; 51”x4.25”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 04/10/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a fantastic vintage tie!) The for this rainy Monday is a plain (yet not subtle) necktie in almost fluorescent shade of yellow. Perfect for tying together boldly patterned suits, sport jackets, shirts, and sweaters! Made by Wembley of imported Priestley’s Nor-East non-crush fabric, c.mid-1940s/early-1950s. Excellent vintage condition, scattered faint spotting; 49.75”x3.875”. (Please DM for details.)
Founded by millhand-cum-manufacturer-cum-Liberal Party politician Briggs Priestley (1831-1907), B. Priestley & Co, Inc. (Priestley’s Ltd.) of Bradford, West Yorkshire was a cloth manufacturer once known as "the largest manufacturer of All Wool Dress Goods in the World". While known for a range of high-quality cloths, its Nor-East Non-Crush cloth, a blend of Turkish Angora mohair and Australian worsted wool, deserves particular attention. New Orleans-born orphans Samuel C. (1905-1989) and Emanuel S. Pulitzer (1902-1967) started Pulitzer Neckwear Inc. in 1925, selling their wares across backroads from Alabama to Texas. For eleven years their business struggled, yet their fortunes shifted in 1936, when Sam fashioned a necktie from his brother’s suit jacket; Emanuel was initially incensed, yet rejoiced upon seeing how the necktie resisted wrinkling. That fabric was Nor-East Non-Crush. Thereafter the two brothers began purchasing from Priestley’s in bulk, renamed the company after the famous London stadium, and went into debt advertising their new necktie in Life and The Saturday Evening Post. With the Nor-East tie and the manufacturing business they built around it, the Pulitzer brothers transformed the “smallest necktie manufacturing company in the United States” into one of the largest in the world. Synthetic fabrics largely displaced the Nor-East tie from the market in the mid-1950s, but not before more than a 100 million such ties had sold.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 01/10/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great vintage tie! The is an electric shock to invigorate this Friday night—a Bold Look-era behemoth of a swing tie decorated an ornate repeating design, all in bright pink/magenta, beige, and grey on a navy ground. 100% silk jacquard, retailed through Pomeroy’s department store (1876-1990) of Reading, PA, c.early 1950s. Excellent vintage condition; 56.25”x4”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 30/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost —just a great tie with an interesting backstory!) Thursday’s is this versatile necktie featuring red, buff yellow, and black paisleys on powder blue that’s as handsome as it is lightweight. British hand-blocked cloth, manufactured using Drape Stitch construction (US Pat. No. 2123900, applied in 1937, granted in 1938) and retailed through A.E. Burkhardt’s of Cincinnati, OH, c.late-1930s/1940s. Very good to excellent vintage condition, some very faint stains (may benefit from a professional cleaning); 49.75”x3.75”. (Please DM for details.)
The life of Adam Edward Burkhardt (1845-1917) was one marked by great highs and tragic lows. At the age of ten, the death of his father led his mother to bring him and his sister to Cincinnati. Her own death just three years later forced Adam became an errand-boy for local furrier Jacob Theis. Under Theis’ employ, he quickly rose through the ranks, eventually purchasing the business from him in 1867. Over the next two and a half decades, Burkhardt became one of the nation’s largest dealers of raw furs and also expanded into the men’s clothing business. In 1891, his seven-story downtown store burned down (leaving him personally with a $1,000,000 loss) and creditors seized his business during the Panic of 1893, not to mention a vicious divorce from his wife Emma. Only with assistance from friends and employees was he able to rebuild and return his company to prosperity during the last chapter of his life. The last Burkhardt store survived until 1995.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 28/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a swell necktie!) Tuesday’s is this charming swing tie peppered with flowery neats of green, yellow, gray and tan on a light brown ground. Retailed through The Heyman-Fisher Co. of Hamilton, OH, c.1930s/1940s. Very good vintage condition, scattered faint stains and discoloration to the knotting area (may benefit from a professional cleaning); 49.25”x3.75”. (Please DM for details.)
The Heyman-Fisher Co. was established in 1907 by Howard Rice Heyman (1879-1936) and Robert D. Fisher (1877-1950); it survived until 1973.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 24/09/2022

FOR SALE—It’s Friday again, and what better way to start the weekend off than with a ? Today’s necktie is this uniquely decorated swing tie featuring a uniquely-patterned, low relief jacquard printed with chevroned bands of beige, yellow, and red-orange against a wine dregs ground. Silk or silk/rayon blend, a “Parkleigh” (Gimbels’ house brand, which began selling neckties around 1929), retailed through Gimbel Brothers, c.1930s. Very good vintage condition, faint staining throughout the front blade and knotting area, including a prominent dark spot 7” from tip; 50”x3”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 23/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a swell swing tie!) You certainly won’t be a square wearing Thursday’s , a fun Bold Look-era swing tie bursting with triangles of buff yellow and beige from a terracotta ground patterned overall with a decorative motif in brown. “Ravenna Geometrics”, manufacturer and retailer unknown, c.late-1940s/early-1950s. Excellent vintage condition, faint spot 4” from tip, staining to the lining (not visible when worn); 52”x4.25”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 22/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just an amazing deadstock tie) Wednesday’s is an unworn Art Deco necktie, beautifully pristine and as bright as the day it was woven. This superb necktie features cogs and postage stamp-like squares of tan and red printed on a lustous blue cloth striped in alternating ribbed and satin bands. Made by National Cravats, c.1930s. Excellent unworn vintage condition, complete with original paper sales tag; 46”x3.5”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 20/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a classic necktie!) Monday’s is this classic Churchill dot in white on red with truly timeless appeal. How would you wear it? A Smoothie Limited, c.1950s. Excellent vintage condition, some faint discoloration to the knotting area; 54”x3”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 18/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great tie!) Saturday’s is the sister to yesterday’s, this time a skinny midcentury knit in solid brown that should pair with almost any outfit, 100% Bemberg rayon, made by Full Fashioned and retailed through Marx Clothing & Shoe Co. of Springfield, MO, c.late 1950s-1960s. Marx Clothing Emporium (1880-1985) was an Ozarks mainstay, founded by Jake and Gus Marx and remaining in the family until 1970. At its height, the business also boasted locations in Joplin and Pittsfield, KS. Excellent vintage condition; 54”x1.375”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 17/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great necktie!) Friday’s is this understated and fun super-skinny midcentury knit tie horizontally striped in thin bands of off-white and pale yellow on brown. Interestingly, it’s cut to a surprisingly modern length, as in it won’t fall inches short of your waistband! 100% Bemberg rayon, retailed through Marx Clothing & Shoe Co. of Springfield, MO, c.late 1950s-1960s. Marx Clothing Emporium (1880-1985) was an Ozarks mainstay, founded by Jake and Gus Marx and remaining in the family until 1970. At its height, the business also boasted locations in Joplin and Pittsfield, KS. Excellent vintage condition; 58”x1.374”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 15/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a swingin’ tie!) Stay ahead of the curve with the , a two-tone Bold Look-era swing tie in contrasting purple and lavender-gray, panel-printed with a lazy burgundy curve bisected by an a purple rod; if you look closely, you’ll notice that the curve design is mirrored in the jacquard weave itself which seems to flow like a current. Made by Superba and retailed through Max Levit of Shenandoah, PA, c.late 1940s/early 1950s. Excellent vintage condition, recently cleaned; 52.5”x4.125”. (Please DM for details.)

Max Levit (1871-1949) was a well-respected hatter and furnisher who resided and worked in Shenandoah, PA from 1895 until his death. Born in Vilkaviškis, Lithuania, he immigrated at the age of sixteen and worked as as a traveling salesman, eventually opening his own shop and earning the monicker “Shenandoah’s good will ambassador”. Following Mr. Levit’s death, his long-time employee John J. Sublusky (1908-1965) continued the business under his own name.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 14/09/2022

FOR SALE—Catch some waves with Thursday’s , a shimmering and swirling brocade tie featuring dual waves of white, orange, and electric blue swirling in tandem against a rich, iridescent dark-blue ground. Made by Wilshire, c.late-1930s/1940s. Excellent vintage condition, one small pull to brocade approx. 5.25” from tip, slight warping; 46.375”x3.625”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 13/09/2022

FOR SALE—Monday’s is a classic emblematic tie featuring the letters U and C interwoven in champagne/beige brocade on a navy ground. While the UC here could easily be associated with any number of institutions, for my money I believe it’s the logo for the Union Club of the City of New York, the oldest (and widely regarded as the most prestigious) private club in New York City (est. 1836) and the fifth oldest in the United States. Please let me know if I’m mistaken! 100% silk repp, made in the USA by Wm. Chelsea Ltd. of Madison, CT. Excellent vintage condition; 57”x3.5”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 10/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great necktie!) Keep it weird with Friday’s , a midcentury necktie with a bizarre circular motif in imperial red, navy, and beige on blue-grey. 100% silk, styled by the Manhattan Shirt Company of Paterson, NJ, c.early-1950s. Good vintage condition, scattered faint stains and one tie pin hole approx. 5.25” from tip; 55.5”x4”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 09/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great necktie!) Thursday’s bubbly is this homemade necktie that’s one of a kind, featuring blue circles shuffling across a blue grid, all atop a pale yellow cotton ground. Wouldn’t it look spectacular paired with a chambray work shirt? Manufacturer and retailer unknown, possibly homemade, c.1930s/1940s. Good vintage condition, recently cleaned, with lingering creases and hidden/faint stains; 44.5”x3.5”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 08/09/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great necktie!) Wednesday’s shines bright like a diamond! This Art Deco-era necktie is not only printed with jazzy diamonds of gray, orange, and beige on dusky red, but it also features a vibrant jacquard pattern and a slight moiré shimmer. Made by Arrow in the USA, c.1940s. Excellent vintage condition, some warping to the tail, small signs of age and use; 51.125”x3.375”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 07/09/2022

FOR SALE—Tuesday’s might well be the most text-heavy necktie I’ve featured (you could say that it drones on…), but it’s all the more charming for it. This midcentury square-end tie features a silly description of the mating habits of our favorite little pollinators, the bee, along with illustrations of said insects and their hives, all in chili red and black on a golden yellow ground. “The Love Life of the Bee”, 100% cotton, made by Rooster, c.1968. Excellent vintage condition; 53”x1.875”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 03/09/2022

FOR SALE—Summer may in retreat, but there’s no reason to swap out your wardrobe just yet. Friday’s is the perfect midcentury summer tie—lightweight, full of texture, colors suited to a warmer-weather palate, and effortlessly cool—featuring horizontal stripes of red, yellow, blue-gray, indigo, olive, sage, and pale brass. 100% raw silk, handwoven in Thailand by Rooster for its “le Coq d’Or” (“The Golden Cockerel”) collection, c.1962-1964. Excellent vintage condition; 53”x1.75”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 02/09/2022

FOR SALE—Thursday’s may have arrived a week late for Leo season, but that shouldn’t deter the most lionhearted dressers from wearing it with pride! This midcentury square-end tie features images of the mighty lion alternating between portrait and passant views (the latter actually using the same design from yesterday’s zodiac tie!) vertically arranged against a resist-dyed ground, all in black, tan and mustard yellow. 100% cotton, made by Rooster and retailed through the Hecht Co. department store chain, c.1960s. Excellent vintage condition, some very faint yellowing at the knotting area; 53.125”x1.625”. (Please DM for details.)
Hecht's was a department store chain founded in Baltimore in 1857 by brothers Simeon and Samuel Hecht (1830-1907); in 1896 Samuel’s son Moses (1873-1954) expanded the business into Washington, DC with the opening of an elegant flagship store at the corner of 7th and F Streets NW. Their business largely catered to the working and middle classes, and found favor with local African American consumers due to its relatively less discriminatory policies compared to its other DC competitors. Like so many other department stores after WWII, Hecht’s expanded into the suburbs and at its height boasted some 20 locations across the Mid-Atlantic region; conversely, business at its flagship withered, and the store itself became a liability after the 1968 riots, eventually leading to the decision to construct a new flagship at the corner of 12th and G Streets NW in 1985. Already under control of the May Department Store conglomerate after 1959, Hecht’s lost its identity entirely in 2006 when all surviving locations were relabeled as either Macy’s or Bloomingdale’s.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 01/09/2022

FOR SALE—You don’t have to be into astrology to dig Wednesday’s , a midcentury square-end tie featuring the twelve signs of the zodiac printed in black, tan, and olive. So now when someone flirtatiously asks you “What’s your sign?,” just point to it! 100% cotton, made by Rooster and retailed through the Hecht Co. department store chain, c.1960s. Excellent vintage condition; 52.375”x1.625”. (Please DM for details.)
Hecht's was a department store chain founded in Baltimore in 1857 by brothers Simeon and Samuel Hecht (1830-1907); in 1896 Samuel’s son Moses (1873-1954) expanded the business into Washington, DC with the opening of an elegant flagship store at the corner of 7th and F Streets NW. Their business largely catered to the working and middle classes, and found favor with local African American consumers due to its relatively less discriminatory policies compared to its other DC competitors. Like so many other department stores after WWII, Hecht’s expanded into the suburbs and at its height boasted some 20 locations across the Mid-Atlantic region; conversely, business at its flagship withered, and the store itself became a liability after the 1968 riots, eventually leading to the decision to construct a new flagship at the corner of 12th and G Streets NW in 1985. Already under control of the May Department Store conglomerate after 1959, Hecht’s lost its identity entirely in 2006 when all surviving locations were relabeled as either Macy’s or Bloomingdale’s.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 31/08/2022

FOR SALE—Who knew the military-industrial complex could be so… whimsically attired? Tuesday’s is a square-end skinny tie in drab brown that reads like a Jane’s guide to Cold War weaponry, printed with a veritable arsenal of ballistic missiles. 100% cotton, made by Rooster and retailed through J. Svoboda Sons of Arlington Heights, IL, c.1960s. Excellent vintage condition; 52.625”x1.75”. (Please DM for details.)
J. Svoboda Sons was a men’s store in Arlington Heights, IL that existed between the 1950s and 2002 (it may have existed in an earlier form as Des Plaines Toggery/F. J. Svoboda Sons in nearby Des Plaines in the 1920s). The building that once held the clothier was demolished to make room for a high-rise in 2005.

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 29/08/2022

FOR SALE—As you might have noticed, I’ve found it difficult lately to keep up with the posts, despite my considerable (and ever-expanding) inventory. For my own sake (as well as hopefully yours!), I’d like to make this a daily exercise once again, so please hold me to it! Monday’s tie is a fabulous celebration of the velocipede, a big and bold square-end tie printed with all manner of early bicycle parading across a red ground speckled with white Churchill dots. For the aficionado of two-wheeled conveyance in your life! 100% cotton, made by Rooster, c.late-1960s/1970s. Excellent vintage condition, one faint mark 7.5” from tip; 54.25”x3.125”. (Please DM for details.)

Photos from Dapper Haberdasher's post 18/08/2022

FOR SALE—(Shameless repost—just a great tie!) Wednesday’s is this midcentury square-end “Folkespeare” tie horizontally striped in yellow and white on dusky, textured bands of burgundy and green, and fringed in black at the ends. A perfect accessory for a summery ensemble. Made by Folkespeare (Folkes Limited) in Congleton, East Cheshire, UK, c.1950s/1960s. Folkespeare was a branded name for Folkes Limited, a neckwear manufacturer that in 1941 occupied Brook Mills (a.k.a. Solly’s and Bossons Mill), built by George and William Reade in 1875 for silk throwing when the region was a hub of silk and cotton manufacturing. Brook Mills remained in operation until the latter half of the 20th century. Excellent vintage condition, some thinning to the fringe; 51.5”x2”. (Please DM for details.)