Beau Coeur Farm

Wednesday Wisdom⁠!

How your horse tells you what he wants Study shows that horses are capable of using a mode of communication often used by dogs. The data revealed that horses did, indeed, attempt to communicate with their handlers—or any attentive humans—seeking help in reaching the bucket.

I know I’ve posted this before, but I can’t say enough how letting the horses live outside 24/7 with access to shelter has improved my horses’ overall quality of life, mental health and physical well-being. It’s been over a year since I broke my collarbone and since I’ve been able to really ride my horses, yet they are fit and healthy, and look fantastic. I could never go back to keeping them in stalls and I’m grateful that I can provide for them a close to ideal living situation.

Rethinking how we keep horses in stalls

Update...I have added a video in the comments...please keep in mind I (Lise) do not have the greatest videoing skills..

Thank you Sarah Duclos for this amazing idea and Jody Lavine for making it happen!! No more massive heeps of wet blankets!!!

Exactly!

A controversial topic, sure to unleash all sorts of opinions, is the difference between reward based training and pressure and release based training.

And whether it is possible, perhaps desirable, to use some sort of combination of both approaches.

So it is 1952 and I am 11, sitting on Saturday afternoon at the Garden Theater in Greenfield, Massachusetts, watching a Western. The outlaws are being chased by the posse. “Hold up, “yells the sheriff. Every cowboy leans back and takes a reef on the reins. Every horse’s head shoots up, mouths wide open from the pressure. And no one gave it much thought, not 60 years ago, because that was simply how it was done.

Fast forward to 2023. I posted a photo of one of the world’s most accomplished and most quietly classical riders asking her horse to stretch, and out came the attackers. “There is a wrinkle in the horse’s side from her leg pressure.” “ The horse is behind the vertical.” Yada, yada, yada, a litany of complaints from the peanut gallery.

So I would ask this simple question---“My horse is galloping along out in the open, and I want him to slow down. Do I throw him a peppermint? So that is one ridiculous scenario, But tearing his head off with some bit designed to stop a charging bull rhino would be equally bad horsemanship.

Isn’t the truth balanced somewhere between using sheer force and using reward? When my kids were little, I took them to King Brother’s Circus in Hanover, NH, and there was a guy there who was the handler of the elephants. Someone asked him about how he trained, and he said, “It depends on the animal. I use pressure and release with big cats, bears, most animals, but with dogs and seals, when they do it right I flip them a biscuit or a fish.”

And not only are there different schools of belief about training, there are huge degrees of pressure, from the old movie cowboy method to the soft and gentle repetition of walk, halt, walk, halt teaching a young horse to yield to mild pressure until the horse learns to associate what these mild pressures are requesting.

But later, if that young horse, now older, is out fox hunting in a group, and its blood is up, using, say, a Tom Thumb Pelham might be the difference between getting tanked off with and having control.

So what I think is pretty simple, and I may be convinced otherwise if I see a better way---Try as much as possible to create a conditioned response using gentle repetition and staying below the horse’s anxiety threshold in basic schooling, but when the horse gets strong with excitement and starts to take over, do what it takes to be safe.

The real riders, the ones who are more than theoretical experts sitting safely somewhere NOT on a galloping horse, will know that there is theory and there is reality. And they will be as soft as possible most of the time they train, but they will also not become passive victims when the horse starts to get too aggressive.

'Not to be opened until Christmas'
Christmas greetings from Thelwell

Now that’s an ideal jumping position. This kid can ride!

When you buy a horse, plan to take care of it in its old age.
Use it in such a way that the horse remains healthy in the long term.
When he grows old, see in him the one who was in his full strength, love him even more than in his youth.💙💙

Credit La Grand Refuge Spa

I was cleaning stalls at 8:30 pm last night and really enjoyed the peace.

Not that we’re in AZ, but I think this rule applies everywhere.

We asked, "Trail Etiquette: Who goes first?" And it was clear things were...confusing. So never mind the quiz, here's the order! 1. Runners, bikers, and hikers yield to equestrians. 2-3. Downhill traffic should yield to uphill traffic. 4. Bicyclists should yield to everyone. When in doubt, give other users the right-of-way.

Trail etiquette is key to a safer hiking experience for everyone. 🚵🥾🐴 Check out this helpful guide and get ready to explore Arizona's breathtaking trail systems: https://azstateparks.com/share-the-trail. 🌵🌄

Good trail management combined with user education means a better experience for everyone who uses Arizona’s trails! Respect and expect other users while on the trail. Show courtesy by anticipating other trail users around corners and blind spots. Respect wildlife too! You’re a guest in their home areas so tread lightly. Respect public and private property. Leave no trace and pack out litter.

Be friendly and courteous. Greet other trail users with a simple “Hello!” or “Nice day today!” Avoid greetings that may be misconstrued, such as “On your left.” Directional greetings may cause confusion and lead to incidents on the trail. Keep it friendly, and keep it simple.

💖YES💖

I could never understand this jumping position “fad!”

In my recent posts about the tragic horse show amateur deaths I have received numerous comments and messages saying that the rider did not come off their horses during jumps. The implication of these comments has been that the crest release is not THE problem. These defenders of the crest release blame footing, which may well be a contributing factor, as well as "freak accident" as the cause and I have no idea what they mean. Some blame the very dangerous "rotational fall" which the HJ defenders have hijacked from the Eventing discipline, and those JH people are using the "rotational fall" term quite incorrectly, apparently to minimize other contributing factors.

The problem as I see it is a perfect storm that includes several elements. However, my main take is that if riders have a balanced position all the time, including in their approaches, jumps and landings, then they would have the ability to manage, correct or otherwise deal with unforeseen circumstances.

The pictured rider, probably a pro, is jumping a substantial jump. How could they ever deal with even a small unforeseen glitch in the landing or in the strides afterward? How many strides will they require to return to any semblance of balance where they could control their horse as opposed to being a passenger laying on their horse?

This rider would not see a problem coming with their head down like that. The legs are not just "back on the pegs" like a crotch rocket rider, the legs are nearly horizontal and of absolutely no use in any difficult moment in the landing or for several strides afterward. Kids watch these riders and want to be like them. This rider is modeling very dangerous riding.

💞☀️

When words are lost in translation. 🦄

SITTING TROT (Quick tip)

To practice your sitting trot: STAND UP! Yes that’s right! Standing up in the stirrups while trotting is one of the first steps to real balance.

It’s done in all the European military schools (e.g. Spanish School of Riding). Not jumping position leaning over, but STRAIGHT UP.

Are you wobbling around up there? When you learn to absorb through your joints - hip, knee and ankle joints, up there standing in trot, then your sitting trot stands a chance of being good too.

If you can’t stand with a tiny gap between your p***c bone and the saddle standing fully, your stirrups are too long to help your balance. And, your heels will be up. If the gap is Huge when you stand, your stirrups are too short.

Good luck with this exercise!

5 Things Your Horse Will Always Remember Horses have an exceptional amount of awareness, which means they can understand situations much deeper than other animals. They are so in tune that they can pick up on others' emotions through body language, voice, or just the overall "vibe" you're giving off. This sort of awareness can lead to much...

Develop a Strong Galloping Position Four-star rider Colleen Rutledge explains her key to success—riding in balance.

𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗥𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁 𝗕𝗶𝘁: 𝗔 𝗠𝗮𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗼𝗳 𝗣𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗲𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗥𝗲𝘀𝗽𝗲𝗰𝘁.

Written by Caroline Larrouilh, ProudHorse Connections with help from Chantelle Matthews Dressage

In your hands, you hold your horse’s emotions.

With the reins and the bit you are not only able to provide your horse with information about where you wish to go, how you wish his posture to change or how fast or slow to move.

With the reins and the bit you impact directly a horse’s sense of self, his safety, his wellbeing and his desire to be present with you in the work.

How light and careful or demanding and brutal you are affects not only your horse’s mouth and body but his understanding of the training relationship.

It reveals your true self to him and it can lift him up or discourage him profoundly.

Therefore our choice of bit and how we use it is something we have to give thought to daily.

It is important to be aware of, and not take our horse’s mouth for granted.

Bitting is very much an art and a science, like saddle fitting, shoeing or trimming. It demands we take into consideration the morphology of our horse’s mouth. There are many variables to consider:

Our horses can have:
-thick tongues
-thin tongues
-wide tongues
-narrow tongues
-wide jaw
-narrow jaw
-high palate
-low palate
-fleshy palate
-long lips
-small lips
-etc...

You must also consider the state of your horse's poll and his hyoids and TMJ, that of his teeth, tongue and parotid glands.

In our horse’s mouth the landscape may be quite different from what we pre-suppose a horse’s mouth “should” be like.

It is important we learn to gently open our horse’s mouth safely (your vet can teach you) and check his oral cavity.

Check the folds of his mouth, his tongue, gums and the roof of his palate for damages.

Know what a healthy color is for him, look for bruises and blood.

Mouth injuries can happen at any time.

The conformation of the horse’s mouth will dictate how thin or thick the bit needs to be or how curved - a thick bit is not always kinder, nor is a thin bit harsher.

It all depends.

In Manolo Mendez's tack room, he has a large box with over a hundred bits.

Half are for educational purposes for what NOT to use on any horse.

The other half are bits he has found suitable for a horse at some point, and he keeps because they may suit another horse someday.

He is flexible in his approach but in general, he is a a fan of the eggbutt snaffle that has a small joint and a gentle curve.

He finds a simple D ring snaffle (with a small joint and gentle curve) is also suitable provided the point on the D are NOT sharp and do not poke the horses face when turning left or right.

This is something Manolo finds riders rarely think about but it happens often when a rider does not have even contact, soft or not.

The joint in the middle of the bit is of upmost importance - a large or flat joint can dig into the tongue and also dig into the fleshy part in the horse’s palate, even worse if the horse has a low flat palate.

It is important that the noseband is not done up too tightly - a 2 finger gap allows enough room for the horse to open his mouth slightly if the bit does touch the roof of his mouth because if the noseband is done up tight the horse could bruise his palate.

The shape of the bit’s branches is also important to the horse’s comfort.

The branches should be slightly curved, not straight. Why? because when contact is taken on the reins with a straight bit it:

-Makes a triangle shape in the horse’s mouth and the middle joint pokes the horse’s palate.

- The bit compresses the lower jaw.

On the other hand, a bit with too harsh a curve will put unnecessary pressure on the horse’s tongue. Even small actions in the contact will result in the bit rubbing too hard on the tongue and compressing the tongue towards one side of the jaw more than the other.

Manolo Mendez does not like loose ring snaffles very much because in his experience, they can pinch a horse’s lips and because when the rings are loose unlike an eggbutt they do not offer any support to the mouthpiece of the bit which drops in the horse’s mouth. (see photo).

A bit with loose rings can be a good bit for a sensitive, experienced rider who has consistent, light and even contact but it is not suitable for beginner riders or riders with young horses because the young horses tend to play too much with this kind of bit and they do not learn to take the contact.

When you purchase bits examine them very carefully: You will find many bits are not balanced properly.

One branch may be heavier than the other so the design is not identical, sometimes one branch will curve differently than the other.

The joint’s are often different sizes too.

This is uncomfortable for our horse.

A dirty bit with encrusted old food matter or sweat is not just unsanitary and risk irritating our horse’s mouth, it is disrespectful as is a dirty or old saddle pad with hard or torn seams that rub the horses back.

All equipment that interface with our horse’s body should be clean, smooth and in the very best condition.

It is important to keep in mind that because a bit should fit in theory, it may not in practice.

A horse can still dislike a bit that seems perfect for his mouth conformation.

For example: Chantelle’s horse Mickey had a very delicate but soft mouth, a narrow jaw, flat tongue, small lips and low palate.

Mickey was started in a side pull bitless bridle (Lindell) for the first three months of his training under saddle so he would not have any negative experience with the bit while he learned to adjust to carrying a rider and learned to respond to direction and gait cues.

Then, he was introduced to a simple medium sized light eggbutt snaffle which we liked.

However, even though it was the perfect fit for Mickey’s mouth, after a couple of rides, we knew it wasn’t suitable for him at that stage of his training.

How did we know?

He wanted to travel with his head too low, as though he was being weighed down.

We switched him to an old favourite, a fine, gently curved, soft metal eggbutt snaffle.

Mickey took to that lighter, fine, soft metal bit and so far we have not looked back.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗹𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗼𝗻 𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗶𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗶𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝗻𝗼𝘁 𝗮𝗹𝘄𝗮𝘆𝘀 𝗮𝗯𝗼𝘂𝘁 𝘄𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗲 “𝗽𝗲𝗿𝗳𝗲𝗰𝘁 𝗳𝗶𝘁” 𝗶𝘀 𝗲𝗶𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿…. 𝗜𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝗮 𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗯𝗶𝗻𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝗳𝗶𝘁𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗺𝗼𝗿𝗽𝗵𝗼𝗹𝗼𝗴𝘆 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗺𝗼𝘂𝘁𝗵 𝗔𝗡𝗗 𝗵𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲 𝗹𝗶𝗸𝗲𝘀 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗿𝗲𝘀𝗽𝗼𝗻𝗱𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗯𝗶𝘁.

Because fitting bits has both a physical and a mental dimension, it is extremely important to allow horses the time to adjust when we decide to introduce a bit or a new bit to them and not make assumptions about what will fit them based on previous history.

When we look at bits, they may look quite identical to us.

One bit may appear to be a little thicker or a little thinner but the design will look the same to our eye.

Or the difference between bits may be more obvious, we may be looking at a bit with one joint and a bit with two joints but because both bits are the same thickness we may put them into the same mental box and make assumptions about their comfort and purpose based on what our eyes tell us.

In reality, it does not matter what we see or even how a bit feels when we test it on our arm or our shin.

Even a change we think is minor may feel like a very big change to the horse.

𝗩𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝘀𝗺𝗮𝗹𝗹 𝘃𝗮𝗿𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗶𝗻 𝘀𝗵𝗮𝗽𝗲, 𝘀𝗶𝘇𝗲, 𝘁𝗲𝘅𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝘄𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗴𝗲𝘁 𝗺𝗮𝗴𝗻𝗶𝗳𝗶𝗲𝗱 𝗶𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲’𝘀 𝗺𝗼𝘂𝘁𝗵 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗵𝗲 𝘄𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗻𝗲𝗲𝗱 𝘁𝗶𝗺𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗴𝗲𝘁 𝗮𝗰𝗰𝘂𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗺𝗲𝗱 𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗻𝗲𝘄 𝗳𝗲𝗲𝗹 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗱𝗲𝗰𝗶𝗱𝗲 𝗶𝗳 𝗵𝗲 𝗹𝗶𝗸𝗲𝘀 𝗶𝘁 - 𝗼𝗿 𝗻𝗼𝘁.

It we decide to try another bit because one of our horses is telling us its current bit is no longer working (horses tell us this by becoming fidgety, not wanting to take the contact, becoming heavy, etc) we do it carefully and with patience over several days.

We do not change a bit for the sake of novelty or because of trends or what a friend or trainer told us.

We listen to our horse.

If our horse is going well and is calm in his mouth, if our dentist doesn’t see any bitting issues when he checks our horse’s teeth - we do not need to change the bit.

First, we double check that our horse does not have any of the injuries we mentioned previously. When we are satisfied that there is no physical issue, on Day One, we install the new bit on our horse’s usual bridle (one he is comfortable in, we do not want to change too many variables at once) and we make sure the bridle is re-adjusted to fit correctly with the new bit. Then we:

- Spend time walking with a soft contact and then on that first day, we keep the training very simple.

- We do not teach new things and we do not practice movements that are not already confirmed and easy for our horse.

- We give our horse a nice simple ride, we forgive mistakes that he does not normally make.

- We do not insist that our horse perform exactly as usual or carry his head and neck exactly as usual.

- If our horse wants to carry his head a little higher or a little lower then we allow for this different posture.

Our horse is simply trying to adjust himself to the new bit and we want to support him during that adjustment period, not work against him.

- We take our horse walking out in the field or around the property for a walk with a soft, even contact so that he can feel the new equipment without being in “work mode”- we want to feel what the contact is like when our horse’s mouth and mind are relaxed.

On Day Two and Three we do very much the same.

By Day 4, most horses who like their new bit start to feel settled and show us that they are comfortable in their working posture.

This is an important moment in time for us and it demands patience.

Why?

Because even though our horse is giving us every sign that the new bit is working, we still cannot quite start working again as we did before changing the bit.

We have to keep in mind that our horse is still adjusting to the new bit as we begin teaching new things to him again and ask more of him.

We have to be mindful of what we ask and how our horse responds as it takes a couple of weeks before a horse is back to feeling 100% comfortable with a new bit in their mouth.

How do we tell if our horse doesn’t like a new bit?

We know - and pretty early on.

Because we have been very careful on Day One and Two we know that the new reactions are mostly from this new object in their mouth.

If our horse who never threw his head up and down suddenly starts to - he doesn’t like the bit- this is simple to see.

If he is more fidgety than before and hasn’t settled in the first Two Days - he more than likely won’t settle.

If he is becoming too heavy or sucking back - this is probably not the bit for him.

In conclusion: In our every interaction with our horse’s mouth we are considerate.

This is especially true when we ask our horse to take the bit or remove the bit.

We do not push the metal against its teeth while pushing a finger harshly in its mouth to force him to take the bit and we do not clang the bit on its way out of its mouth.

We teach our horse to open wide for the bit and we hold the bit for him when we remove it so his experience is pleasant.

NOTE: We are not looking for arguments or debates. In addition, it is not possible or wise to make specific recommendations about a horse’s bitting need without seeing the horse in person so this Note is general in nature by necessity.

As we indicated throughout the text, your horse is the one who you should listen to when it comes to bits and in our experience, paying attention to your contact and using common sense go a long way in creating positive bitting experiences for horses.

𝗗𝗼 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲 𝗮 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝗻𝗼𝘁 𝗮𝘀 𝘀𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁, 𝗯𝗮𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲𝗱 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘀𝘂𝗽𝗽𝗹𝗲 𝗮𝘀 𝘄𝗼𝘂𝗹𝗱 𝗯𝗲 𝗴𝗼𝗼𝗱 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗵𝗶𝗺?

𝗜𝘀 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲'𝘀 𝗺𝗼𝘃𝗲𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁, 𝗿𝗵𝘆𝘁𝗵𝗺 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗴𝗮𝗶𝘁 𝗾𝘂𝗮𝗹𝗶𝘁𝘆 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘄𝗮𝘆 𝗼𝗳 𝗯𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗽𝗲𝗿𝗳𝗼𝗿𝗺𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲?

𝗔𝗱𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻-𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘄𝗼𝗿𝗸 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗵𝗲𝗹𝗽 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲 𝗱𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗹𝗼𝗽 𝗮 𝗯𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗽𝗼𝘀𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘂𝗹𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝗯𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗽𝗲𝗿𝗳𝗼𝗿𝗺𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲, 𝗵𝗲𝗮𝗹𝘁𝗵 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗯𝗲𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗶𝗼𝗿.

To make a difference in your horse's health, behavior and performance, simply click on the link below.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/inhandlessonswithmanolo