PerpetualPassion

When a Royal meets the Royal Oak.

The Prince of Kent wearing his Royal Oak 5402SA.

🇮🇹Tudor ha presentato una nuova versione del Black Bay Chrono. Questa edizione esclusiva per le boutique TUDOR, si distingue per il quadrante “TUDOR Blue”, una tonalità di blu che il marchio ha sapientemente sviluppato nel corso degli anni e che è diventata un elemento distintivo nei suoi cataloghi.

“TUDOR Blue” è il termine con il quale il Marchio intende sottolineare e valorizzare la presenza costante di questa tonalità nell’estetica caratteristica di Tudor. In particolare, due modelli dell’heritage Tudor hanno ispirato il Black Bay Chrono “Blue”: gli orologi subacquei, come il famoso “Snowflake” Submariner di Tudor, e i cronografi, come il cronografo Oysterdate “Montecarlo” in blu.

Oggi, il successore spirituale di quegli orologi è intriso di un tocco di “TUDOR Blue”, perpetuando una tradizione profondamente legata al marchio Tudor, ed è disponibile esclusivamente nelle boutique Tudor di tutto il mondo.

👉🏻 Articolo completo su PERPETUALPASSION.com

“Contrary to all those who claim to be trendsetters, It’s that sets trend, making products that are both classic and desirable, timeless yet entirely in keeping with the time” Patrick Heiniger, former CEO, 2005.

This statement is confirmed by this 1990s Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599, which will be up for auction at next November, having been produced long before the modern version presented at Baselworld 2012.

This statement is confirmed by this 1990s Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599, which will be up for auction at Phillips next November, having been produced long before the modern version presented at Baselworld 2012.

The “King of Cool” Steve McQueen wearing the Heuer Monaco 11333B during the backstage of the movie “LeMans”.

Six Heuer Monaco ref. 1133B watches were delivered and worn during the filming of the action-packed movie, and it has now been revealed that one of these six Steve McQueen Monaco watches will be auctioned by on December 11, 2024.

Of the six, two are part of the TAG Heuer museum collection, two have been sold at public auctions, and the remaining two have changed hands privately. The last time one of these watches appeared at was in 2020, fetching $2.2 million.

This particular Steve McQueen Monaco, worn by the actor himself, will be up for bidding at Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction in New York City on December 11. The estimated value has been conservatively set between $500,000 and $1,000,000.

The Daytona “Rainbow” is set to be auctioned on November 8, 2024, at in Geneva at the Hotel President during the event “Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999.”

A timepiece known to a select few but largely unfamiliar to the public, the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” predates the modern version introduced at Baselworld 2012.

This rare model, reference 16599, is powered by the Zenith-based cal. 4030 and was produced in the 1990s. Now, this unique “Zenith Rainbow” will go under the hammer at Phillips in November during the thematic auction focused on watches from 1980 to 1999.

Having been in the possession of a renowned collector—who previously sold another record-breaking Rolex at Phillips—this ref. 16599 features a bezel set with rainbow-gradient sapphires and a diamond pavé dial adorned with blue sapphire hour markers.

Estimated to exceed CHF 3 million, the auction catalogue will be released closer to the sale date.

The In-line Perpetual Calendar 5236P is arguably one of the standout releases of 2024, deeply rooted in Patek Philippe’s rich heritage.

This modern perpetual calendar draws inspiration from a 1973 Patek Philippe pocket watch, number 1450, which is displayed at the Patek Philippe Museum and is known as à l’américaine.

First introduced in 2021, this reference features the new caliber 31-260 PS QL, which shares the architecture of the 5235G but includes several key enhancements and innovations.

This caliber boasts three new patents:

- A system that reduces friction during the jumps of the date discs, resulting in lower energy consumption.

- An anti-shock mechanism that prevents the risk of a double jump and securely holds the discs in place.

- A system designed to ensure the precise transition from the 31st of one month to the 1st of the next.

Blue Monday

The legendary actor Paul Newman wearing his beloved Daytona 6239 “Exotic dial” .

On this day in history, August 24, 1932, aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart became the first woman to complete a nonstop solo flight across the United States.

She piloted her Lockheed Vega 5B from Los Angeles to Newark, setting a new record with a flight time of 19 hours and 5 minutes.

Her story, her legend, is rich with interesting anecdotes, even when it comes to watchmaking.

Black Friday ⚫️ with the “Little Darth”

The Lange 1 is recognized as a contemporary watchmaking icon, being one of the first four models introduced during the relaunch of the A. Lange & Söhne brand in 1994.

Its design features an asymmetrical yet perfectly balanced dial, incorporating a sub-seconds display, power reserve indicator, and the signature outsize date window.

This Darth, sized at 38.5mm Platinum case, ref. 101.035,
is affectionately nicknamed due to its striking black dial with platinum accents and black date discs featuring white Arial numerals—a combination seldom seen in Lange 1 models.

The reference 101.0035 was produced in small quantities for only 7 years (1999-2006).

Friday

“I always feel like I have to keep going. You can sit back and say, ‘Maybe I can stop.’ But then you’re yesterday, and I love tomorrow. “

Ralph Lauren

For the first time in the history of the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, the Best of Show was awarded to a preservation car—a significant honor that enriches the already legendary history of the Bugatti Type 59.

This year, 214 cars from 16 countries and 29 U.S. states took to the competition field, but it was the 1934 Bugatti Type 59 Sports, presented by Fritz Burkard of The Pearl Collection in Zug, Switzerland, that ultimately claimed the top prize.

To mark the occasion, Rolex presented the winner with a special PERPETUAL 1908 ref. 52508. In previous years, the Pebble Beach winner received a two-tone Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet.

The change to the 1908 is likely part of Rolex’s efforts to highlight the new Classic line it introduced in 2023.

📸 credits:

Wedsneday 🪸

Despite the extremely difficult manufacturing process, Rolex produced for a short period of time a limited number of natural stone dials.

Amongst these, certainly one of the most prestigious produced, is the coral stone dial.

Next year, the Rolex GMT Master will celebrate its 70th anniversary. This watch was born in an era of rapid change, created for a new generation of travelers with the advent of long-haul flights. It’s a tool watch, a true travel companion.

It all started with the reference 6542, which features two distinctive case design elements never again used by Rolex on a GMT model. The most obvious is the lack of crown guards, a characteristic typical of Rolex watches from the 1950s. However, the risk of accidentally damaging the crown soon led Rolex to introduce these protections.

Another unique aspect of the 6542 is its bakelite bezel, a plastic material chosen for its low glare, making it ideal for a pilot’s watch. This bezel, with its highly appreciated glossy and magnifying appearance, has never been replicated, even in modern versions. However, it was soon discovered that bakelite was extremely fragile and prone to cracking.

On the wrist, this watch still feels incredibly modern in its design and proportions. The beauty of vintage is also the possibility of wearing a kind of “unique” timepiece, thanks to the patina that develops on the indices and dial, in this case, a captivating “coffee” tone often referred to by collectors as “tropical.”

Who knows what Rolex has in store for us next year to celebrate the 70th anniversary of this legendary watch...

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Rolex’s top leadership has assumed several of the most senior positions at Bucherer, following the acquisition that took place nearly a year ago.

Nicolas Brunschwig, the president of Rolex, has been appointed as the president of Bucherer, while Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour has taken on the role of vice president at the international luxury jeweler.

Additionally, Bucherer’s board of directors now includes Christian Bezençon, Rolex’s chief financial officer, Philippe Pascal, a member of Rolex’s board, and Sören Schwieterka, a lawyer from the Lucerne-based firm Mühlebach Advokatur, which has long handled Bucherer’s legal affairs.

Guido Zumbühl continues in his role as CEO of Bucherer.

While the debate around Rolex often centers on the brand’s sports watches, and critics sometimes claim that Rolex lacks innovation, it’s crucial to recognize the brand’s ongoing achievements over more than a century.

The technical advancements, such as the Chronergy escapement and the new-generation movements now found across all models, are milestones worth examining.

I’m confident Rolex will continue to surprise us in the field of anti-magnetism—just take a look at our article and post about the future of the Milgauss, as well as the complications that might emerge from their latest creation, the Perpetual 1908. This model, introduced in 2023, marks a new era for Rolex, featuring the new caliber 7140 with the Syloxi hairspring (for the first time paired with the Chronergy escapement) and Rolex’s signature Côtes de Genève finishing.

The pinnacle of the 1908 collection is undoubtedly the latest Platinum edition with its ice blue dial and “rice-grain” guilloche finish.

At 39mm in diameter and 9.5mm in thickness, it stands as one of the most beautiful watches of 2024 in my opinion.

This timepiece is a tribute to classic watchmaking and a significant step for Rolex, reminding us that the brand excels not just in sports watches but also in the realm of prestigious timepieces.

Au revoir, Monsieur Delon

Mid-August essentials 🏖️

Patek Philippe’s reference 5131J is a distinguished successor in the brand’s prestigious collection of worldtime watches, renowned for its iconic cloisonné dials depicting geographic maps.

The invention of World Time watches was driven by necessity, as the industrial age revolutionized global trade and travel, creating a demand for timepieces that could track multiple time zones. Beyond their practical use, these watches serve as historical artifacts, reflecting the geopolitical changes as one capital replaced another as the reference city for a specific timezone.

Interestingly, it wasn’t until after the 24-hour time zones were established at the International Meridian Conference in 1884 that watchmakers began developing worldtime watches. It wasn’t until the early 1930s that Louis Cottier, a visionary watchmaker, designed a movement that became the standard for worldtime watches. This design featured central hour and minute hands for local time, a rotating 24-hour ring, and a fixed outer ring with the names of various cities.

Patek Philippe was among the first to adopt this innovative complication, creating dials with exquisite enamel maps of Asia, the Americas, Oceania, and Europe, or with intricately crafted guilloché centers.

In this iconic shoot for George Clooney and Brad Pitt
show us that 60 is the new 20.

The two HOLLYWOOD legends paired their Loro Piana turtlenecks with two watches that express their personalities.

While George Clooney made a clear choice, being an Omega ambassador, by wearing an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (231.10.42.21.03.003), Brad Pitt chose a watch from his own collection. It is a magnificent Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/11j with a Champagne dial.

Saturday vibes 🏖️

Fishing with Daniel Craig at Goldeneye estate on Oracabessa Bay where Ian Fleming wrote the first novel - Casino Royale - in 1952.

In the past, our fiends of Hodinkee has collaborated with TAG Heuer to create exclusive watches such as the Carrera Skipper and the Carrera Dato.

This year, they surprise us with a new interpretation of the iconic Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, produced by Heuer for the American market between the 1950s and 1970s.

We are excited to present the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee, a contemporary homage to the reference 2444C, which was launched shortly before the model was retired after two decades of innovations in cases and dials.

It’s incredible how Datograph was introduced in 1999 when the (new) company was merely 9years old .

An in house movement with Chronograph and oversized display - inspired by the Dresden Semper Opera - fitted like a tailor in a Platinum case. A watch that changed the future of watchmaking.

After the first generation of Datograph produced from 1999 to 2011, has developed this fascinating piece combining traditional watchmaking and “modern” aesthetics. For example? The Datograph “Lumen” .

The dial, crafted from tinted sapphire with a complex construction, allows the luminous material to absorb UV rays during the day, making it glow at night.

This feature enhances all luminous elements on the dial, including the tachymeter scale, subsidiary dials, date display, and power reserve indicator.

The Datograph Lumen is the purest example of the evolution of this young modern icon and its intriguing to think about what its next evolution will be.

Daniel Craig was spotted donning an unreleased no-date Seamaster variant at .

The timepiece on Craig’s wrist in Paris bore resemblances to the 60th Anniversary James Bond Seamaster, yet several unique features indicated it was indeed a different model.

Notably, the bezel featured a pip at the 12 o’clock position instead of the number 60. Additionally, the seconds hand mirrored the style found on the typical Seamaster Diver 300M, differing from the lollipop style of the 60th Anniversary edition.

Subtle variations were also observed in the watch’s appearance. The color seemed to be black rather than blue, and it likely featured a flat sapphire crystal, unlike the domed version typically seen.

These distinctions hint at a significant development that Omega enthusiasts have eagerly anticipated: a standard no-date Seamaster poised to rival Rolex’s esteemed no-date Submariner.

Among the Paul Newman Daytonas, this is probably my favorite configuration: the white Paul Newman dial on reference 6239.

After all, it was the configuration worn by the legend, the coolest actor of all time: Paul Newman.

Playing a significant role in Rolex history, the reference 6239, introduced in 1963, was the inaugural Cosmograph Daytona model.

It’s remarkable how the “Paul Newman” models remain so unique and iconic even after 50 years.

The black on white grené dial is instantly recognizable due to its Art-Deco-style numerals within the subsidiary registers, paired with the bright red “Daytona” text at 6 o’clock, creating a strikingly beautiful aesthetic.

The dial’s beauty is further enhanced by the outer red 1/5th seconds track and the well-preserved concentric circles of the subsidiary dials. The perfectly preserved luminous plots have developed a pleasing and consistent warm beige hue.

Produced as an alternative to the standard silvered and black dials, this configuration was originally named “exotic” by Rolex before its association with the iconic actor.

Initially, Paul Newman dials were poorly received by the public, leading to a short production run of about 4-5 years. This limited production makes them both scarce and highly appealing today.

⌚️Available at

🇮🇹The Italian entrepreneur and watch collector wearing the rare Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065J

The Aquanaut, introduced in 1997, was Patek Philippe’s first watch to feature a rubber strap.

Initially produced in a limited run of just 1,000 pieces (ref. 5060A and 5060J), this model debuted shortly after the brand’s first highly successful sports watch, the Nautilus, marked its 20th anniversary.

The ref. 5065J was launched shortly after the initial limited references, featuring an updated 315 SC calibre and an increased case diameter of 38mm, up from 36mm. The ref. 5065J ‘Jumbo’ also introduced a sapphire display case-back, replacing the solid case-backs seen in earlier versions.


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Monday essentials ☕️

A Timeless Duo: The C**t Python and Rolex Sea-Dweller.

In this captivating image, we see two icons of precision and craftsmanship: the C**t Python and the Rolex Sea-Dweller.

The C**t Python, often hailed as the Rolls Royce of revolvers, stands as a symbol of unparalleled engineering and reliability in the world of fi****ms.

Similarly, the Rolex Sea-Dweller represents the pinnacle of tool watch excellence, known for its durability and precision. Together, they embody the essence of superior quality and timeless elegance.

“Rolex?” .. “No, Om…. “

In “Thunderball,” Bond (Sean Connery) wore this special watch, modified into a chrono-cum-geiger counter, to track down two nuclear bombs stolen from NATO.

The watch is a 1962 Breitling Top Time (reference 2002), with a case made by Valley Tool Company (signed V.T.C.) specifically for the movie, making it a one-of-a-kind piece. It is also the first Q-modified watch featured in the Bond films.

This watch was sold at in 2013 for 103,875 GPB

Il programma Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) di Rolex ha meno di due anni, ma conta già 69 rivenditori ufficiali CPO, alcuni dei quali sono grandi gruppi con diversi punti vendita, all’interno della sua rete globale di circa 1.500 negozi.

Il rapporto di Watchcharts evidenzia che i rivenditori autorizzati di Rolex stanno applicando sovrapprezzi sempre più elevati rispetto ai prezzi di mercato.

Watchcharts, un’azienda specializzata in ricerche e analisi del mercato secondario degli orologi di lusso, ha iniziato a raccogliere specificamente dati di inventario e vendite dei Rolex CPO, monitorando gli orologi offerti dai rivenditori autorizzati Rolex e confrontandoli con le statistiche dei rivenditori non affiliati.