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Dog Trainers Versus Animal Behaviorists!!!
There are many dog-related careers that are often misunderstood by the public. One common example is the confusion between dog trainers and animal behaviorists.
What's In a Name?
The truth is that there are several different titles used for those who work with dog training and behavior. Many of them deal with both dog training and behavior because the two go hand-in-hand. However, not all are equipped to handle major behavior issues.
It's important to understand that anyone can call himself a dog trainer or even a behaviorist. There are no laws dictating what defines a dog trainer or a behaviorist. As the consumer, it is up to you to learn the difference and to research the professional before you hire them to work with you and your dog.
Fortunately, there are also various certifications and degrees to help you understand the education and training a person has.
Dog Trainers
Dog trainers train dogs to perform specific tasks or actions. They also teach dogs not to do certain things. Some trainers will work with problem behaviors, even delving into the behaviorist side of things. However, a good trainer knows his or her own limits and, if necessary, will refer you to someone better equipped to deal with the issue. Some dog trainers work in the field as a hobby, while others are professional dog trainers with some kind of certification, often through the CCPDT (Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers) or IACP (International Association of Canine Professionals).
When looking for a dog trainer, research his or her certifications, education and experience. Ask for references as well. Letters after the name, while important, are not going to assure you that the trainer is good. Conversely, there are plenty of excellent trainers without letters after their names. In addition, some dog trainers also have certification in behavior as well.
Animal Behaviorists
Again, anyone can claim to be a behaviorist. However, technically speaking, professional behaviorists are called Applied Animal Behaviorists. They earn this title through formal education and earning an MS, MA, or Ph.D. in animal behavior. Some go on to earn additional certifications such as CAAB (Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist) or ACAAB (Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist). It would be reasonable to think of an applied animal behaviorist as a kind of pet psychologist.
Applied animal behaviorists focus on understanding behaviors in animals and can work with pets displaying behavior problems. They can recognize how and why your pet’s behavior is abnormal, and can effectively teach you how to understand and work with your pet. Good behaviorists are experts in behavior modification and also deeply understand the normal behavior of the particular species being treated. In addition, they spend a lot of time counseling humans about the way they interact with their pets. They are not trainers but are often able to give advice about training.
Veterinary Behaviorists
If animal behaviorists are like animal psychologists, then veterinary behaviorists are a bit like animal psychiatrists. They also work in behavior modification and deeply understand the behavior of each species they treat. However, a veterinary behaviorist is an actual veterinarian who has gone on to specialize in behavior. This generally means earning a bachelor's degree, then attending four years of vet school. After becoming a DVM, the candidate must complete an internship, a residency in behavior, author a scientific paper, write peer-reviewed case studies, and pass a rigorous examination. Upon completion, the vet can become a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. A veterinary behaviorist can prescribe medication, but will not always do so depending upon the case.
To better understand what the above professionals will be doing, it may be helpful for you to learn the difference between training and behavior management. Also, remember that behavior issues may stem from physical problems. If your dog develops a behavioral problem, talk to your vet. It might actually be related to a treatable medical condition. Seek the help of a trainer or behaviorist once health issues have been ruled out by a veterinarian.
Why Do Dogs Circle Before They Lay Down?
There are few things more adorable than watching your pup curl up in a little ball to fall asleep. Why does your dog feel the need to make a few circles before finally laying down, though? Is this a normal behavior, or should you be concerned?
Most professionals believe that, while there may be a few reasons for this behavior, circling before lying down is an instinct passed down from dogs' wild ancestors.
Self-Preservation
By making a circle, a wolf, coyote, or wild dog can survey all of their surroundings. They can get one last look at everything around them to ensure there are no potential predators in the immediate vicinity. They can also make one final check on all the other members of the family unit, ensuring that everyone is safe and sound. Making a full circle also allows a wild dog to determine where the wind is coming from. If they can determine this they can sleep with their nose to the wind, so that they can smell the scent of any predators before the predator can smell them.
Making a Comfortable Resting Spot
Wolves and coyotes don't have the soft, cushy beds and blankets that our dogs get the luxury of sleeping on. They have to make do with fields and forest floor. Walking around in circles can tamp down tall grasses, collect pine needles into a soft place to lay, or even rustle out any insects or wildlife hiding in the brush. Pets at home may have plenty of beds and blankets, but that doesn't stop them from trying to make their posh pet bed just a teensy bit more comfortable. When your dog makes a circle before laying down he may be instinctively trying to make a cozy area to sleep in.
By tamping down all the vegetation by circling, a wild dog can also clearly mark a specific spot as their own so that all other animals in the family unit know that it is spoken for.
Temperature Regulation
Wolves and coyotes have lived in all sorts of climates, ranging from mountain cold to desert heat. Those that have to sleep in the snow will frequently combine circling with digging up the snow. By piling up snow around the edges of where they will sleep, they can not only save themselves from sleeping on top of the cold snow, but they can also use the snow as insulation from the cold temperatures around them. Circling also enables wolves and coyotes in colder areas to curl up in a tight ball with their nose tucked under their tails. It's not just adorable, it also conserves body temperature to sleep this way. Alternatively, wolves and coyotes that have to sleep in warmer climates may combine circling with digging up the dirt. By doing this, they can turn the soil so that they are sleeping on soil that is much cooler than the dirt that was getting baked in the sun all day.
When Should You Be Concerned?
For the most part, circling before laying down is a completely normal, completely benign dog behavior. What if your dog seems to circle excessively or what if they start to circle more? If your dog has any neurological or orthopedic conditions, such as osteoarthritis, your dog may start circling more than they once did. This can be because finding a comfortable sleeping position may be increasingly difficult. Providing your dog with supportive, orthopedic dog beds and proper joint and pain medications can help make your dog more comfortable and can help lessen their excessive circling.
Some dogs can also suffer from obsessive compulsive disorders, such as tail chasing and trancing. If your dog is prone to compulsive, ritualistic behaviors, they may start to circle excessively as another manifestation of their obsessive compulsive disorder. Discussing this behavior with your veterinarian or a veterinary behavior specialist is the first step in the path to helping your dog.
While science doesn't give us a definitive answer for why dogs circle before they lay down, there are some pretty logical hypotheses for the origin of this behavior. If you're concerned that your dog's circling may be due to pain or may be indicative of a compulsive disorder, speak to your veterinarian.
Why Do Dogs Kick After They P**p?
Dogs have several behaviors that would seem odd if a human were to do them but are completely normal in the canine world. Kicking the hind legs after p**ping is one of these behaviors that may appear to have no purpose, but, in reality, there are reasons why your dog may be doing it.
Marking Territory
Dogs have scent glands in the bottom of their feet that they use to mark their territory. Domesticated dogs don't necessarily need these glands, but their ancestors used them to claim their domain.
The scent glands contain invisible scent-marking chemicals called pheromones and these chemicals are a dog's calling card or identifier. Urine and a**l gland secretions also contain pheromones and may be used to mark territory. Other dogs will smell the pheromones after a dog kicks, even though humans cannot, and will be able to tell that the p**p belongs to someone else.
It could be used as a warning signal for territorial dogs or as a sign that a dog is ready to mate. You may even notice your dog kicking like this after sniffing another dog's p**p or urine. This may be in an effort to cover the other dog's scents with their own pheromones.
This kicking behavior is a natural form of communication for dogs, even if there is no longer a need for it as a domesticated canine, and it isn't something to be concerned about.
Dogs that tend to be more dominant, however, are often the ones that do the most aggressive kicking after p**ping. If you live in a multi-dog household, you may notice that some of your dogs hardly kick while others put on quite a display.
Burying or Spreading Waste
Another reason why your dog may be kicking its feet after p**ping is because it could be trying to bury its waste. This behavior is more commonly associated with cats, but dogs may try and bury their waste too.
The act of burying waste isn't done because a dog is trying to hide something, though, but rather to spread the scent of their p**p further. Kicking up dirt and covering it brings more attention to the f***s so it is another way a dog marks its territory after p**ping.
On a rare occasion, a dog may actually try to bury its f***s if it feels threatened and is trying to hide its presence, but this is more common in wild canines.
Wiping Paws
Some dogs do not enjoy having dirty paws, so if they get something on them after p**ping they may be kicking in an attempt to wipe their paws off. They don't like the feeling of the dirt or debris on their paws and are simply trying to flick it off, much like they would rub their face on the ground if they feel as though something is on it.
Although kicking can be a sign of discomfort or an attempt to get something off paws, when this is done only after the act of p**ping, it is more likely to be associated with one of the other two reasons above.
Can You Stop Your Dog From Kicking After They P**p?
While your dog may mean well when it kicks after p**ping, many dog owners don't enjoy the damage it causes to their landscaping. However, where possible, the kicking behavior your dog exhibits should not be discouraged since it is natural and instinctive.
There are some management techniques you can apply, however, to limit the damage it may be causing to your grass.
Walking your dog on a leash off of your property is the best way to protect your landscaping. This avoidance method will still allow your dog to kick after p**ping, but since it will be down the street or in a public dog walking area, you won't be upset if the grass gets ruined.
Another option is to train them or limit them to p**ping in a specific area like a dog run. Designate an area for your dog to go potty and instead of using nice grass, put down river rocks, pebbles, or mulch so your dog won't do any damage. This way your dog can do what it does best and you don't need to worry about it.
Attempting to stop this behavior by yelling at your dog after p**ping could result in your dog becoming fearful of p**ping around you and it can damage the bond of trust between you. It may start p**ping in the house in an attempt to do it in secret or develop diarrhea due to the stress of being yelled at.
How to Build a Solid Relationship With Your Puppy?
The Hardest Dogs to Train
Which breed is the hardest to train? The answer is not breed related—it is relationship related. The hardest puppy to train is the puppy that lives outside. This puppy is in charge of its environment most of the day and only knows its family as "the people who feed me." It loves you and it craves your attention, but it gets it in such small amounts that it just leaves it desperate for more. It is bored and gets itself in constant trouble. If you must leave your puppy outside, and you're determined to own a dog, your best bet is to get two puppies to be sure both have the companionship they need. It is, of course, possible to train puppies that live outside but it takes a strong commitment to the project.
Love
The first component of a solid relationship is love. Spend as much time as you can with your puppy, bearing in mind these important tips.
Use a leash, even indoors: Remember to use your leash inside the house to keep your puppy in the room where you are in your line of visual sight. Using an indoor leash on your dog is one of the keys to housebreaking your dog, and can be a very useful tool for doing any training with your dog. Use a short nylon leash with the handle cut off to minimize tripping hazards and the leash getting tangled on things.
Make sure that your new puppy’s primary bond is with you instead of with other dogs in your household: Dogs tend to form dog-to-dog bonds quicker and easier with other dogs ahead of the bond with humans. This is true even if the other dog despises the puppy. Avoid using other dogs as a babysitter for your puppy. Use your leash and confinement instead.
Consider having your puppy sleep in a small crate next to your bed: This eliminates most of the late night howling of new pups. Your puppy will sleep longer and better when it hears your breathing and knows that you are near. If you prefer, it is fine to allow your dog to sleep in your bed as long as the dog gets off the bed when you ask it to. Let your puppy see this as a privilege instead of a “doggie given right.”
Trust
The second part of a solid relationship is trust, which you build through communication. The best way to help your puppy to trust you is to learn to communicate with your puppy as a benevolent adult dog would communicate with it.
While some people see the puppy as a little person in a fur coat, your puppy is not a person and can never live up to that expectation. It does not think as you do; it lives in the present moment with no thought to the past or the future. Since it does not understand human language and may misinterpret our body language, it is up to you to learn its language. Learn what it is saying with its body language. Learn to recognize its signs of stress. Learn to speak with it in the language it understands. This builds trust between you and your puppy.
Respect
The third part of a solid relationship is respect, and respect must be earned rather than demanded. The good news is that it is easier to earn your puppy’s respect than that of the typical teenager: all you need to do is convince your puppy that you are in charge.
Please remember that your leash and long line are your friends. The more you are willing to use these tools now the less you will need them a year from now.
Control your puppy by approaching the leash or long line to redirect your puppy to the behavior you want.
Learn to direct your puppy to the behavior you want instead of reacting to the behavior it offers.
Avoid jumping towards your puppy or reaching for it with your hands, and avoid hitting your puppy either with your hands or an object. When disciplining your pet, avoid grabbing your puppy’s muzzle and rolling your puppy over in the old ‘alpha roll’. You do not need such arguments. You need your leash and your long line.
Why Do Dogs Like Squeaky Toys?
Why Dogs Like Squeaky Toys
Your dog may enjoy their squeaky toy for a variety of reasons, but most dog behavior experts agree that the three main reasons dogs like squeaky toys are related to hunting instincts, chewing, and the sound itself.
Hunting
A lot of squeaky toys may be small, fuzzy, and shaped like something a dog may instinctively want to hunt. The squeaking sound they make may even sound similar to the alarm sounds that natural prey may make. This can explain why hunting breeds may have a higher affinity for squeaky toys than non-hunting breeds. This can also explain why some breeds, such as terriers (which were originally bred to be ratters), may love shredding their squeaky toys. Of course, any breed can enjoy playing with squeaky toys, but hunting instincts may explain why a Jack Russell loves to destroy their squeaky toys while a miniature schnauzer may be content to simply squeak it.
Sounds
Another reason your dog may enjoy squeaky toys is because of the squeak itself. When your dog chomps on their favorite toy and immediately hears a squeak, they get immediate gratification. This can trigger something like a positive feedback loop. Hearing the squeak sound may trigger dopamine to be released from the reward center in your dog's brain. Your dog may continue to squeak their squeaky toy in order to feel that dopamine rush again.
Your dog may also learn that if they squeak their favorite squeaky toy around you, that might get you to play with them. If every time you hear your dog playing with their squeaky toy you join them in their play, your dog will quickly make a correlation between "squeak toy" and "mom/dad plays with me." Some folks may jokingly call this their dog training them, but if your dog is asking you to play with them, who are you to say no?
Chewing
Finally, your dog may enjoy their squeaky toy because they just love to chew things. This can be especially true for younger puppies that are teething. Similar to cats and scratching, different dogs may have different preferences for chewing texture. Teething puppies may enjoy softer, rubber toys. Older dogs, especially smaller breed dogs that are prone to dental disease, may prefer soft, stuffed squeaky toys. Power chewers may do well with so-called indestructible toys. Toys made of heavier rubber, plastic, or vinyl may also last longer than plush squeaky toys, but they may still have to be replaced at some point. It's also important to remember that your dog's preferences may change as they age.
How to Play With Squeaky Toys
Playing with your dog may seem like something that would just be intuitive, but there are tips and tricks to get your dog to play with you. Most folks may try to get their dog to play with a toy by prominently shaking it in front of their face. Some dogs may respond to this, but remember: Your dog probably likes their squeaky toy because it mimics prey. A squirrel probably isn't going to run up to your dog and dance right in front of them. Instead, slowly move it along the floor just out of your dog's reach to stimulate your dog's prey drive.
Safety Tips
Squeakers, stuffing, and even rubber pieces can be hazardous if your dog were to eat any. It's important to always supervise your dog with a new toy. Toys should be checked regularly for any rips or tears that may break off or potentially be eaten. Plush toys that have holes in them should be thrown away, or you can sew the hole closed to prevent your dog from ingesting any stuffing material. Damaged plastic and rubber toys should be disposed of. Toys that are very hard plastic can get rough edges after being chewed up. Any toys with rough edges that could potentially injure your dog should be thrown out. Always supervise your dog when playing with any toy.
Dog Training and Routines!!
Most dogs thrive on having a routine. They like knowing when to expect activities such as mealtimes, walks, playtime, and more. It can also be a great help to establish a routine when trying to train a dog. Most dogs feel more secure when they can predict what is going to happen each day. The following ideas will show you how establishing a routine can benefit your dog training program.
Feeding
It's a good idea to give your dog or puppy its meals at the same time every day. Puppies usually eat several small meals over the course of the day, while adult dogs get one or two larger meals. Talk to your veterinarian to figure out the best type and portion of food for your dog.
The benefit of feeding a dog at the same time every day is that it makes it easier to predict when it'll need to relieve himself. This makes a big difference when you're trying to housebreak a dog.
Potty Time
Dogs should get outside to go relieve themselves at about the same time each day. Puppies need frequent potty breaks, while older dogs can hold it for longer periods. Keep this in mind when creating a schedule for your dog.
Putting this on a schedule will greatly enhance your housebreaking efforts. Dogs will be more likely to hold it if they can reliably predict when they'll get a chance to go outside and relieve themselves.
Walks and Playtime
Plan on spending about an hour or more each day walking and playing with your dog. All dogs will benefit from this type of exercise and mental stimulation. Getting this activity every day can help curb destructive behavior.1
Training Time
It's a good idea to add training time to your dog's schedule every day. It helps improve its behavior, and it provides it with some mental stimulation. There are a few ways to add training to your schedule each day:
Training sessions: Training sessions are short (about 10 minutes) periods you set aside a few times each day to work on a particular skill, such as basic commands. This is a great way to train a dog to do new behaviors and to reinforce them. Clicker training is one method that works well with a session approach.
How to Train Your Dog to Walk on a Loose Leash?
Teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash will eliminate leash-pulling during walks, which is safer for your dog and more enjoyable for you.
This technique is not a perfect "heel," which keeps your dog strictly by your side, but instead allows your pet room to sniff and explore as long as it leaves some slack in its leash. As you loose leash train your dog, have some tasty treats handy to reward it along the way.
Choose a Leash and Collar
You will need a 6-foot leash and a collar. If your dog is in the habit of pulling, it may be able to easily slip out of a regular flat buckle collar. In this case, a martingale collar is a good option. This collar is ideal for training a dog to walk on a loose leash. It looks like a regular flat collar but has an extra loop that pulls tight when your dog pulls. This keeps dogs from slipping out of the collar. However, the martingale collar has a stopping point and will not close too tightly the way a choke chain does.
Give the Command
Choose a word or phrase that lets your dog know what is expected of it. Since this is not a formal "heel," something like "with me" or "let's go" works well. Start out on your walk with your dog at your side, give the cue word or phrase, and begin walking.
Stop and Go
When your dog pulls at the end of the leash, stop immediately and do not budge. Never allow your dog to move forward when it is pulling or lunging. This way, you are teaching your dog that the only way to get where it wants to go is by leaving some slack in the leash.
As soon as there is some slack in the leash, you can begin again. Give your dog the command "with me" and start moving forward.
If your dog seems relentless about pulling on the leash even when you stop, try changing directions instead. You may find yourself turning in circles at first, but soon your dog will learn that it's not going anywhere if it pulls. It will learn to pay attention to you to figure out which way to go.
Make It Rewarding
Once you step out of your house, you have a lot of competition for your dog's attention. You have to make staying close to you more rewarding and fun than running off to explore all the sights and smells of your neighborhood. For this, you can use treats, praise, and a happy tone of voice.
To start, any time your dog turns and looks at you, praise it and offer a treat. This is also a good time to use a clicker if you have decided to try clicker training. When your dog's attention turns to you, click and treat. In this way, you are teaching your dog that it is rewarding to pay attention to you. You can also speak to your dog in a high, happy tone to keep its attention on you.
You may need to use a lot of treats in the beginning to get your dog's attention. Keep your hand by your side and give it treats continuously, as long as it is walking near you with some slack in the leash. As your dog gets the idea of what you expect, you can slowly phase out the treats by waiting longer between treats.
Problems and Proofing Behavior
Leash training can take time; you will probably not have your dog walking on a loose leash the first time.
There may be times when you simply cannot get your dog's attention. It might find what's going on elsewhere more interesting than your treats or happy talk, and stopping and starting may not be enough to distract it from whatever is holding its attention. In this case, it's best to move away from the distraction. Walk in the opposite direction, saying "let's go." There's no need to pull your dog; simply walk away while holding the leash. Your dog will have no choice but to follow. Once it is walking with you, offer a treat and plenty of praise.
To "proof" your dog's ability to walk on a loose leash, take frequent short walks, varying your routine and direction. Once your dog is comfortable with your local neighborhood, practice loose-leash walking in locations where distractions are likely. Be consistent and positive. In time, your dog will learn how to walk properly on the leash.
What Does It Mean When My Dog Yawns?
Yawning in Dogs
Yawning in dogs looks just like it does in humans—wide-open jaw accompanied by a big, deep breath. Some dogs will make a sound when they yawn, a high-pitched noise as they are exhaling, while other dogs will yawn silently.
While with people, we usually associate yawning with fatigue, when dogs yawn, it can sometimes also be a form of communication.
What Dog Yawns Mean
A dog yawning when it's waking up, as it's falling asleep, when it lays down, early in the morning or late at night is likely a signal that your dog is tired. Easy enough to understand!
Yawning is also a type of appeasement gesture; something also referred to as a calming signal. Dogs yawn to deflect a threat. If a person or another animal approaches a dog, that dog may avert his gaze and yawn. It's a dog's way of saying that he feels threatened or anxious, but that he is not going to attack.1 Dogs use this type of body language to avoid conflict.
Yawns can be a signal your dog is stressed. This would explain why your dog yawns more often in the car, at the vet, or during a thunderstorm. The yawns could be mixed with intermittent panting and whining.
What to Do If Your Dog Is Yawning a Lot
If it seems like your dog is tired, let them go to bed. Dogs like to sleep a lot! It's possible that they want to go to bed but you or someone else is in their sleep space. Be sure your dog has a place they can go that is quiet, safe, and theirs, where they can retreat and fall asleep without anxieties.
If it's not caused by sleep, look out for the things that could be causing anxiety. It could happen if two children are fighting close to where the dog is lying down, if a child hugs him, when someone scolds him, or in a variety of other stress-inducing situations. Being aware of what causes anxiety in your dog can help you prevent him from being exposed to those situations.
Why Does My Dog Eat My Socks?
Why Do Dogs Eat Socks?
Dirty socks laying on the floor certainly don't look like an appealing snack option for you or I, but that doesn't stop dogs from thinking so. Dogs like to eat socks for a multitude of reasons. Socks, even ones that have been laundered, can smell a great deal like you and your dog may have their initial interest in your socks piqued because of that. They may start chewing and licking at them and may accidentally swallow them in their play. If your dog sees them as valuable because of their smell, they may even intentionally swallow them as a way to resource guard them. Of course, some dogs just like to eat things they shouldn't. Pica, a condition where one eats non-food items, isn't just a compulsive behavioral disorder seen in people, dogs can suffer from it, too.1 There are also metabolic disorders that may cause your dog to want to eat non-food items, such as socks.
What's the Concern With Eating Socks?
Socks may seem benign enough to leave where your dog can access them. We're not talking about antifreeze or sugar-free gum, here, so what's the issue? Unfortunately, due to both their linear nature and their ability to ball up, socks can easily cause gastrointestinal upset, blockages, and even septicemia and death.2 They can become lodged in any part of your dog's GI system, preventing the otherwise normal passage of other gastric materials. As a results, the surrounding tissues can become inflamed. If the blockage isn't removed, the inflamed tissues can even start to necrose (that is, the cells begin to die), which can lead to life-threatening septicemia.2
Of course, not all sock ingestion episodes are equally emergent. A Yorkie that eats even just a baby sock is more concerning than a Great Dane that eats that same baby sock. However, all cases where a dog ingests a sock require close monitoring and immediate veterinary attention. This is especially true if you see vomiting, lack of appetite, or lethargy.3 If your dog ate a sock, don't try to make your dog vomit it back up. Instead, take them to the vet to have them checked out.
Your veterinarian will do a thorough exam, including palpating your dog's belly to check for any tenderness or bloating that can come from gas buildup. From there, your vet will want to take a radiograph of your dog. Contrary to what some may think, soft tissues can be seen on X-ray, including food in the stomach, stool in the colon, and any gastric material within the intestines. Your vet will also look for any gas patterns that may indicate a partial or full blockage. If a single X-ray is suspicious for a blockage, your vet may also want to do a barium study. This is where your dog is fed a liquid that shows up on the X-ray as bright white. X-rays are then taken immediately after ingestion and then two, four, six, and sometimes even eight hours later. The high contrast provided by the barium can help pinpoint where, if any, your dog's GI blockage is.
Depending on your dog's symptoms and what the radiographs reveal will dictate a treatment plan. A more conservative treatment plan would involve hospitalization with IV fluid therapy and GI medications. Keeping your dog hydrated with the fluids can help keep your dog's GI system hydrated, which may in turn encourage your dog's intestines to continue passing the sock. If your dog's vet doesn't think that a conservative approach is in the best interest of your dog, they will want to perform either an endoscopy or a exploratory abdominal surgery. These surgical procedures are, unfortunately, the only sure ways to see if an ingested sock has caused an obstruction and also the only way to remove the sock.
How Can I Keep My Dog From Eating Socks?
The first step in preventing your dog from ingesting your socks is to keep them out of reach of your dog. Put laundry away promptly and don't leave dirty socks laying strewn on the floor. Providing more appropriate play and enrichment for your dog can also stave off boredom that might otherwise be filled with sock eating.1 Interactive toys, puzzle feeders, and activities such as agility, flyball, and field trials can provide your dog with mental stimulation as well.
Another way to prevent your dog from ingesting anything they shouldn't be is by training. Using positive reinforcement based training methods to teach your dog what "drop it" and "leave it" means can be incredibly helpful. If your dog is not quite there with his training, yet, redirect them with another toy to play with. This may get them to drop the sock. Of course, you can also try to physically remove the sock from their mouth, but your dog may think this is a game of keep away, which will make them want to play with socks more.
To us, socks can be dirty and smelly, but the fact remains: dogs like to eat them. Unfortunately, socks can be expensive to deal with if your dog does ingest them. As with most veterinary medical concerns, the best treatment option is prevention.
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