Faida Day Old Chicks.

FEEDING PROGRAM

Age Intake/Day/ Bird

1 - Week. 12 - 15gm
2 - Week. 15 - 20gms
3 - Week. 20 - 25gms
4 - 6 Weeks. 35 - 50gms
7 - 8 Weeks. 55 - 60gms
9 - 15 Weeks. 62 - 67gms
16 - 27 Weeks. 68 - 80gms
Above 28 Weeks 120 - 140gms

N:B - The above feeding program is in grams per bird and intake per day?

ORGANIC FARMING !!! Mornings leaves is a wonderful growth promoter,it has over 15% CP, CF of 7% and some amount of CHO.
It can be given to birds raw by squeezing into water or by mixing with feeds after sir - drying and grinding.

I think you should know this?

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coccidiosis-prevention-cure-and-natural-healing.64404/

COCCIDIOSIS; PREVENTION, CURE AND NATURAL HEALING As I happily embarked upon my first rearing of chicks, I was horrified to see that one of them p**ping reddish p**p. The woman I had bought the chicks from said this was normal. WRONG. It is normal for a chicken to occasionally shed its ceca (a...

https://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fagricbooks.blogspot.com%2F2018%2F08%2Fpoultry-farming-free-e-book-download.html%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR0BvhpUNzDYGUOotHWr4tkofLyivE6K1PG6hiBugWXpc-SvMGyj5lplpAI&h=AT29Xap0Fjk8nNSGy_uLuFq3rCouvZZFzVLzNp5oTBpLjK4EdoV_u-zvhmC1pFg7jJQyEyskv7EZQoLC-zRpi5ODdXs3LI9KHVQAthVew9vrXqPIfuH36jgpXq6_833sUue9OBqfrjOZb5l_IKVoJx7YglG6cbjAb9zj2kE8VeoO1mJHOCCjikADNSmNUnodQpOac3Y8QDKLeiQ0Z5YfC1NVe2h4HS8wfRISyM4Li9wWY3KMDfM3DGv6TBkFBARPaYoiLVuIoqrxLumkyijMsByFt0LlLe0ufQUrG2rVfhIe1cQJ1qr3g-6i-mrbd-sGuQQM-H-ofk5-y8xmAXj8CULpj-7IksoaLBaREBPkICUxMsiKof0wogFhprPf7M1B3ydfbPyKVuSAr7QqXhvnDFMZAjoMtYpc5o8d9dOotfU6Mc90dSodOAyXpXGJ91Tzj6vmXnwivUSVG89iz30GpnAT3D6j9twzSNu1fW9QhgNLowHZKqSwX3ZfRNQf5oNjgoB6SvQjN2UlEq2FLJtsQcIXIfUWqscbPYE0CqEalApD

POULTRY FARMING FREE E-BOOK DOWNLOAD Starting a poultry farm is a very good lucrative venture. A lot poultry farmers are really making a lot of profit from there poultry b...

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𝐆𝐞𝐭 1 Week old kienyeji improved Kuroiler chicks @𝐊𝐬𝐡𝐬. 120 𝐨𝐧𝐥𝐲.

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◾️. 1 week old - Ksh 120 / =

Bookings ongoing@ Faida Day Old Chicks,Kahawa West,Past Farmers Choice?

WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO HAVE A CHICKEN ROUTINE?

It is really important to establish a daily routine with your birds. Chickens love order and are very habitual. They like to know what-happens-when, and it is good also for you. A daily routine is made based on you and your hens' needs. It should be reliable and realistic.

CAN POULTRY CHICKS DIE FROM COLD?

Most baby chicks don't die from illness, lack of food, or dehydration. They are far more likely to die from being cold. A 70 degree house is too cold for them. They need mama-hen temperature which is much warmer.

Effect of low brooding temperature
Low brooding temperature causes the following problems,

Chilling or brooding pneumonia:
Temperature below normal causes pneumonia problem in young chicks, in which the colour of lungs become blue.

Smothering:
During low temperature chicks huddle together to maintain body temperature which results in smothering and death.

Prevention of temperature problems.
To prevent the problems of dehydration, pasting, chilling and smothering we should adjust the brooding room temperature 24 hours before putting the chicks in the brooding room and during the brooding period. Try to maintain the normal temperature throughout the brooding period and brooding areas.

WHY THERE'S A DROP IN EGG PRODUCTION NOW.

This is a problem for chicken keepers everywhere. During the cold season egg production drops.

It goes from gathering several dozen eggs a week to almost nothing. Some of us have even resorted to buying eggs from the store and yet we have chicken and want to be self-sufficient.

Chickens start laying eggs when their body reaches maturity. Depending on the breed, its when they are about 4-6 months old

By MIXING them into your regular flock, you get the benefit of fresh eggs in the cold without messing with their natural body rhythms.

Sasso vs Kuroiler

Sasso chicken is a duo purpose breed which can be used for meat and eggs. They are bred from original parent breeding stocks imported from France.

Compared to Kuroilers, Sasso are 364% superior in body weight at 18 weeks. Kuroiler itself is 345% compared to the indigenous varieties.

Sasso’s egg production ranges from 170-171 eggs compared to 156-168 for Kuroiler.

For hoteliers, Sasso has a distinct reddish colouring, long legs, a thin, narrow v-shaped breast, substantial amounts of yellow fat, and hallmarks of a short growing bird.

DO YOU KNOW THAT 40 HENS AND 10 C***S CAN GIVE YOU A MOTHLY INXOME OF 40K ASK ME HOW?..Improved kienyeji hens start laying at 4.5 months ,they do not brood,they lay nonstop so you are assured of constant supply of eggs,lets say you have 40 layers and 10 jogoos,per day yo wont miss a crate of fertilized eggs ,fertilized kienyeji eggs have a high demand,minimum price per crate is 450, in a week youll have 7 crates ,that will amount to an income of 3,150/= per week.In a month 12,600/= ,less cost of layers mash,on the higher side 100 kg thats roughly 4600,with a net of 8k you can comfortably pay for a shops rent somewhere else and continue with you hustle without too much hustle.Alternatively when they start laying you can purchase a half hatcher incubator of 528 egg capacity.and be incubating 176 eggs per week ,if you do that thrice you wont miss a minimum of 10k per week as a day old chick costs 100/= ,thats 40k per month with just 50 chicken

TIPS ON HOW TO GROW A SUCCESSFUL CHICKEN BUSINESS

The number of chicken you start with doesn't matter. You can begin with one, three or five chickens and end up being a millionaire when you do the following;

√. Analyse
You need to take time to investigate and analyse. Learn a few things on how to start and run it perfectly.

√. Understand The Risks And Rewards
Any business requires an entrepreneur to be a risk taker. As you investigate, get to learn the risks you will have to take and the rewards that will come there after.

√. Keep Records
This is one of the most important tools in any successful business. As you start, always keep detailed records of expenses and profits earned. Write all the equipments you've bought and any amount used in purchasing them. This helps you to understand your financial position and helps you to identify your strengths and weaknesses. Correct on the mistakes and maintain the strength.

√. Be Organized and Punctual
I always tell my clients and followers that this is not a lazy man's business. You will have to organize your work well and be an early riser. You have to do things in the right time and perfectly. The chicken house need to be clean, they need continuous supply of enough clean water and proper feeds. Vaccinate them in time and prevent diseases. To manage on this, you also need to at least have a table of day to day activities so that you don't forget any important activity to be carried out.

√. Be Creative
As the saying goes, Necessity is the mother of invention. Think on what other things you need to do as an individual to cut on the costs of keeping chicken. You can decide to make your own feeders, drinkers, and make your own feeds. Ensure that your compound is well fenced to barricade the predators from entering and causing loses. This will help in maximizing profits.

√. Be Patient and Focused
You need to know what you want to achieve and always remember the old saying that 'Rome wasn't built in a day.' Many people want to start making profits immediately they start without considering the factors they need to put in place so that they may reach there. Others give up while others start eating the eggs instead of being patient. Stay focused and achieve the best.

FACTS ON CHICKEN REARING

√. Avoid using sawdust as bedding especially for the day old chicks.
Instead, use woodshavings and cover with newspapers or cotton clothing.

√. Avoid using light bulbs larger than 40 watts.
Instead, use infrared bulbs.

√. Don't give poor quality feeds.
Low quality feeds leads to slow growth rate in chickens, low egg production and increases chances of diseases.

√. Don't give your birds raw onions.
Raw onions contain a poisonous compound called thiosulfate which affects proper production of red blood cells and lead to anaemia.

√. Avoid giving chickens high Salty feeds.
It affects their digestive system, leads to lung, heart and kidney damage resulting to death.

√. Avoid giving chickens fatty feeds.
Fatty foods lead to obesity in chicken which can result to Ascites, and heart failure causing death.

REARING

Day-old chicks must be handled with care. A flock that gets off to a good start is easier to control it has a higher body weight at the start of rearing process is more unform size has a better health status and reaches a genetic Potential more easily. There are number of basic things for you to bear in mind
Before chicks hatched check that everything in the house is working properly :right temperature, there is enough fresh air coming in, feed and water there is enough light
Day Old Chicks/fdoc

FEEDING

Feed is the greatest expense in commercial poultry establishments, therefore it is important to purchase feed from a reputable miller who can assure consistency in the quality and performance of the feed. Variations in the nutrient composition and quality of feed ingredients result in variations in feed composition and texture. These are due to variations in raw feed ingredients from season to season and even shipment to shipment.

It is important to avoid mixing feeds from several millers, adding other protein sources (fish meal etc.) and mineral salts (DCP) as this changes the balance in the feed thereby affecting performance. Excess of some of these products also negatively affects the final product e.g. fishy tinge in eggs I meat due to more than 5% fish meal in feed.

To start a flock, feeder lids or plastic feeder trays (one per 100 chicks) should be used. The feed can also be spread on paper placed over the litter. Gradually remove the feeder lids or trays, replacing them with the adult feeders. By the time the birds are ten (I0) days old, all the lids and trays should have been removed. Provide adequate feeder space as recommended below for proper growth of the birds.

Type of feeder Recommended feeder space
TROUGH 5.0 cm per bird (minimum)
PANS (33cm diameter) 30-50 birds per pan
TUBES (42cm diameter) 30-50 birds per tube
Each type of birds have feeds specific to their growth as indicated below:

Broilers - Broilers Starter Crumbs / Mash from day 1 to 3 weeks of age.
Broiler Finisher Pellets I Crumbs / Mash from 4 to 6 weeks of age.
Layers- Chicks & Duck Mash from day 1 to 8weeks of age Growers Mash from 9 to 18weeks of age. Layers Complete Meal-from point to lay to the end of lay.
During the changing period of the rations, mix the two rations so that the change is gradual. An abrupt change is stressful to the birds and can affect performance. Vitamins can be provided during this time to reduce the stress.

Water
Distribute drinkers evenly throughout the whole house, alternating them with the feeders so that they are easily accessible to all birds. No bird should walk more than 1.5 m to get either feed or drink. Provide one chick fount for 75 chicks during the first week and gradually replace them with the regular drinkers allowing space

Type of Drinker Recommended water space
TROUGH 2.0 cm per bird
BELL SHAPE (35cms diameter) 6-9 per 1000 birds but not less than 4
NI***ES 8-10 birds per ni**le
Wash and disinfect chick drinkers daily. Ensure the drinkers are filled with fresh water after washing. Ensure the birds have access to wholesome drinking water at all times and NEVER allow the drinkers to go dry. In hot periods it is essential to provide the flock with cool water as this will improve productivity. It is therefore extremely important to protect the water tanks from direct sunlight or ensure they have a reflective surface.

Always adjust the drinkers and feeders levels as the birds grow to ensure that the equipment is always slightly above the level of the birds' backs. This minimizes spillage. Use a reliable water sanitizer (like chlorine) to control disease-producing organisms in the water.
Day Old Chicks.

Pure kienyeji Day Old Chicks in Kahawa West @ 100 Bob each,60 pcs remaining.
For Booking Call 0719744554

7 CHECKS FOR A HEALTHY CHICKEN

When picking a hen out of a flock there are 7 things that you can check to ensure you are bringing some healthy chickens back home.

1. EYES
A healthy chickens eyes will be bright, alert and clear of any discharge. Cloudy eyes or a lack of alertness can signify blindness or an underlying disease.
A beautiful ginger hen with a healthy beak and eyes

2. BEAK
Check that the chicken’s beak isn’t broken at the tip or flaking off. Not all broken beaks will grow back and a chicken with a broken beak will have difficulty eating and drinking properly.

3. BODY
When you pick the chicken up they should feel a nice plump weight, if you can feel a prominent breast bone then they may well be significantly malnourished/underweight.

4. FEATHERS
Check that their feathers have a good coverage with no unusual bald patches or injuries. Some chickens will peck each other or pull feathers out which can cause serious injury if left unchecked.

5. LICE / MITES
When you are checking the chicken you should constantly be on the lookout for lice and mites. These can be difficult to spot but usually appear at the base of the feathers near to the skin and on the skin itself.

6. VENT
More common in chicks but also possible in adult hens is pasted vent. This is where loose stools accumulates around the vent and seals it over. If left untreated pasted vent can actually be fatal so make sure the hens you are buying have a clear vent.

7. LEGS & FEET
Check that the chicken’s legs are not overly scaly. An overly scaly foot can indicate an infestation of scaly leg mites.
A close up of a healthy pair of chicken feet
Check that the feet look clean and healthy with no sore patches, missing toes/claws or any other injury...

Infectious Coryza

This is a disease very common in all birds and causes swallon eyes with puss and swallon nasal cavities.

Severe cases can lead to:

1.) Liquid nasal discharge
2.) Difficulty breathing
3.) Impossible to keep eyes open leading to a high bird mortality

Following chemicals or medicine including the following are highly effective against Infectious Coryza:

Tylosin
Erythromycin
Furazolidone

For maximum incubation and then hatching do the following:
1. Collect your eggs ie day 1 to 6
2. Store them on pulp trays.
3. The sharp pointed part should face down wards.
4. Clean the eggs with a disinfectant
5. Candle the eggs
6. Eggs from different farms should be marked accordingly with a pencil
7. If the eggs were on transit let them rest for at least 24 hours before loading.
8. Day 7, make sure to start your incubator early like
three,four hrs prio incubating.

Start with 20 chicken in August 2020 and by the end of twelve months you'll have over 300 local chicken!!!

For those seeking information on local hens, here is a personal analysis, from experience.

If you started with 20 hens. At the end of the 12 months, you can easily have 300+ chickens as long as you put your effort into it!

This is how:
Buy 20 hens that are ready to lay and 3 mature c***s.
Always keep the ratio of males to females at 1 c**k to 7-10 females for fertilization purposes. That way you're sure your eggs are fertilized.

Month 1, they lay.
Month two they hatch.
Month 3 they rear their chicks.

Once the chicks are one month old, they don't need their mothers for warmth. So withdraw the mother when the chicks are one month old (at the end of calendar month 3) and rear the chicks yourself till they are 2.5 months old before you let them on their own (free range)!

This is meant to force the hen to start laying again. We are doing business and not letting nature take its course!

Month 4, the hens take what we call a "Laying break" to adopt to not having their chicks!

Month 5, the hens start to lay again.
Month 6, they hatch again.
Month 7, they rear the chicks (process repeats itself)!

Withdraw the mother at the end of month 7.
Month 8, they are on the laying break.
Month 9 they lay again.
Month 10 they hatch.
Month 11, they rear.

Withdraw mother at end of month 11.

Month 12, they take the break, waiting for month 1 of the next year to start over again.

A few things to note:
1. You can only practically do this up to 5 times for one hen before it is retired.

2. For every cycle, if you stay strict to the process, you get a week accrued for every hatching cycle because hens hatch after 21 days and in the post, I assumed a month for that. So you might squeeze a one month for the hens.

3. Put 8 eggs for every hen to hatch. In most cases, they'll hatch the entire 8 eggs, and for the poor hatchers, they'll hatch 7.

Don't be greedy it has a good chance of hatching all 8 of them as opposed to doing 10+ and end up "spoiling" eggs!

4. If you take care of the chicks in a closed environment away from stray cats and other predators, you should have 5 mature hens for every hatch-cycle, per hen.

5. If you manage to get 5 hens for the 8 eggs hatched and you had 20 hens, you'll have 100 new hens for the first cycle.

There are three cycles for every hen per year. That's a good 300 new birds. Plus your local 20 hens, you have 320. Let's just say 300 for the sake of it.

6. By the way, by the time the hen is hatching for the third time in the year, the first batch of chicks will be ready to start hatching too.

7. Assuming 50/50 for c***s and " layers"!
So you have 150 c***s, and 150 layers!

8. If you sell 100 mature birds at the market,
it is way better than trying to win a sports bet.

In all this, you gotta put your mind, effort, money and most importantly, time to it.

Don't look at the work right now, look at the end product.
A local hen lays 15-18 eggs before wanting to hatch again, if well taken care of that is.

Let's say 15 eggs, give it 8 eggs to hatch and sell the other 7 eggs x 20 hens x 300/= per egg, that's some 42,000/= ugx to buy Yaka tokens.
Always make sure you give the hen the "newest" eggs for hatching.
Eggs 15 days old have a 20% chance to hatch, 12 day old eggs have a 30% hatch rate.

Eggs 10 days old have a 50% hatch chance.
If it is 7 days, it shoots to 80%. Less than 7 days have a 90+% chance to hatch unless conditions like temperature and humidity fluctuate.

After hens hatch 5 times, sell them and rear the newer ones. For those with bigger space, do paddocks for easier identification of ages for sale.
Always maintain your "floor stock" at 300 hens and 50 c***s for easier management and space.
With this, you'll find out that you're collecting 200 eggs every day X 30 days = 6000 eggs less 2500 for hatching, you sell 3500 eggs every 4 months.
That's 1,050,000/= ugx in 4 months.
If you sell 500 hens, 250 c***s and 250 layers, at an average worst price of local 20,000/= ugx , that is 10,000,000/= per year.

Plus returns from eggs 55 X 3 cycles totals 14,525,000/= ugx a year. Local hens only take about 20-25% of budget. Pocket the rest 10,885,000/= ugx Average 875,000/= a month and you don't wake up at 5 to go to work to come back home at 10 PM hence more time for family.
Well, this is theory. The practicals have much more fun and some hardships. But it's fun doing locals. And the money is tax free. Unless you feel charitable enough to give to the government. Make it a side hustle and soon it will turn full time.

MOST IMPORTANTLY: FEED them, WATER them, VACCINATE them, and give them MEDICATION at first sight of symptoms of illness. I can't stress that enough. Have fun farming people!!!

RAISING HEALTHY CHICKS

As you purchase chicks from whatever place, it's good to check and ascertain that the navel is dry, eyes are open and alert, they aren't lame and that they are active.

√. Provide warmth
Chicks should not be subjected to any kind of cold as this will really affect their lungs leading to death. Ensure that the brooder is clean and warm always. The lamps should be 5 - 6 inches above their heads. To ensure that the heat is not too hot or below average, you will see them active and evenly distributed in the brooder.

√ Liquid Paraffin and Chick Start
These are very important. Liquid Paraffin ( NOT KEROSENE ) is colourless, odorless and oily and should be bought at the agrovet, helps in clearing the digestive system of the chicks, removes blockages in their crops and improves their appetite.
Chick Start is water soluble and contains glucose, vitamins, amino acids and essential minerals. It provides instant energy, manage stress and improves their growth rate.
Add 5 drops of Lquid Paraffin (sio mafuta taa tafadhali) to 500ml of water. It will float making it possible for the chicks to consume.
Liquid paraffin can also be used with Chick formula and glucose.

√ Feeds
Ensure that the chicks get enough food, (chick mash) for two months. You should not allow them to feed layers or growers marsh when still below 2 months. Layers marsh is high in calcium which will cause kidney complications to the young chicks thus resulting to death.
Don't underfeed them. Young chicks consume about 40 grams of feeds per day. Basing on this, you can calculate the amount of feeds you need to feed your number of chicks daily. For example, if you have 50 chicks, you will require to supply them with not less than 2 kg ( 50 × 40 ) of feeds daily.

√ Bedding
Saw dust shouldn't be used coz chicks can't differentiate their feeds and the dust. If you use the sawdust, then cover with some sheet or use timber frames on the floor then cover with used newspapers

*RAISING DAY OLD CHICKS TO GROWERS*

*Day 1-day 7*
- the chicks need to be in a brooder.
What is a Brooder?
- a brooder is a simple construction that is used to raise chicks until a point they are not so vulnerable.
- brooders maybe small rooms, wood construction, brooder boxes etc.
- chicks should stay in a brooder for at least 3 weeks - 4 weeks

*How to make a good brooder!*
- make sure the brooder is not cold. ( provide source of heat ie. 100,watts Bulb, hot water bottles, brooder pots, etc)
- consider constructing brooders that's not too big and not too small.
-clean and disinfect the brooder before receiving chicks
- provide enough drinkers and enough feeders
- make sure the brooder is free from insects, rodents and mature chicken.
- provide dry dusting materials (saw dust or rice husks).

*Feeding chicks between day 1-day 7*
- the best feed at this age is starter (crumbs or mash). - Suguna starter crumbs
- fugo starter mash
- pembe starter mash
- at this age avoid mixing of the feed with jenga, omena, pellets etc. You can mix starter crumbs and starter mash at a proportional ration.
- Avoid feeding broiler starter crumbs for chicks that are not broilers.

*Drugs* .
- chick formula (egocin,veta chick start, poltricin, vitamet chick etc, dosage (one teaspoon for 5lts, ½teaspoon for 2 litres and ¼teaspoon for one litre)
- aliseryl (this is a blend of various vitamins that will help your chicks grow fast with strength and energy. Also helps chicks boost the appetite and also helps in preventing numerous diseases). Dosage same as chick formula
- liquid paraffin- this is not the normal paraffin we use at homes. This is a medicated paraffin that helps relieve constipation, helps in digestion, prevents injuries to alimentary canal and helps chicks to pass soft droppings.
- so week one give a combinations of chick formula, aliseryl and liquid paraffin
*_Give Newcastle at day 7_*

*Day 8- day 14*
*Feeds*
-Same as previous week
-
*Drugs*
-continue with chick formula
- use coccidiostat (biosol, coccid, vetatrim, biotrim etc) in place of aliseryl. This will help to prevent coccidiocis.
- drop liquid paraffin
* so, second week you give a combination of coccid+chick formula
-give gumboro vaccine at day 14

*Day 15- day 21*
- feed as previous week

*Drugs*
- combination of vitamin and antibiotics ( aliseryl, neoxy vitamin, miramed, agranyl etc)
- repeat Newcastle vaccine

*Day 22- day 28*
*Feed* .
Start introducing chick mash. (Mixing chick mash with starter )
- incase you started with crumbs, continue giving crumbs until they are 7 weeks old.

*Drugs*
- give coccidiostat
- repeat gumboro at day 28.

*Week 5.*
Here the chicks are old enough and can survive out of the brooder.

*Feeds*
- chick mash/ chick crumbs( or mixture of mash and crumbs)

*Drugs*
- vitamins.

*Week 6*
Feeds- as in week 5
Drugs, coccidiostat and strexia
*_Vaccinate fowl pox._*

*Week 7*
*Feeds*
- gradually introduce growers( mix chick mash and growers)
- drugs - feed suppliments ie molar plus, vigosine or tonophos.

*Week 8*
Feeds, growers mash( you can mix with pellets, omena, jenga etc)
10 kgs of growers (mixed rations)- 6kgs growers mash
- 1kg jenga
- 1kg omena
-1 kg pellets
- 1/2 kg ngano
-¼kg sunflower
-¼kg cotton

*Drugs*
-vitamins and antibiotics
-vaccinate fowl typhoid.

How to make a 70 kg chick mash (1 to 4 weeks)

Growing chicks require feed with Digestible Crude Protein (DCP) of between 18 to 20 per cent. The following formulation can be used to make a 70 kg bag of layers chick mash:

Ingredients

31.5kg of whole maize

9.1kg of wheat bran

7.0kg of wheat pollard

16.8kg of sunflower (or 16.8 kg of linseed)

1.5kg of fishmeal

1.75 kg of lime

30g of salt

20g of premix

Amino acids

70g of tryptophan

3.0g of lysine

10g of methionine

70 g of Threonine

50g of enzymes

60g of coccidiostat

50g of toxin binder

Sasso kienyeji is an improved kienyeji KUKU that originates from France....the main supplier of sasso f1 chicks in East Africa is silverlands, tanzania.sasso kukus are better that most of our improved breeds of KUKU because

1. They attain market weight in a short time making them a good commercial breed for meat.a well kept sasso jogoo has the ability to attain 4 kg in 4 months.

2. Sasso are also excellent for eggs,with good feed program a sasso hen will begin to lay in 4.5 to 5 mnths . they can also be kept as commercial layers.

3. Sasso hens lay jumbo eggs about 65g unlike others that lay 30g to 50g eggs.sasso eggs also have a deep yellow yolk.

4. They thrive well in free range and caged set up.they can eat anything you feed your local kienyeji kuku..

5.sasso day old chicks from silverlands come vaccinated for Mareks, gumboro and Newcastle 1.they also have a feed and vaccination chart that will guide you to get the best results from your kukus.

6.sasso kukus are relatively, ressilient to desease ( Having promptly followed the vaccination schedule provided).keep a prompt vaccination habit to keep your kukus healthy.

7.sasso F1 chicks have a uniform growth .

Sasso is the best commercial breed as it's returns are quick if you follow the right feed and vaccination schedule and get the genuine sasso F1 chicks from silverlands...you will the above attributes

Many farmers misuse drugs not knowing that they are posing danger to themselves and other people.Strange diseases keep coming up and you wonder why?
Follow this basics and you will see a change on your poultry venture.

1. Do not administer drugs without a professional prescription.Get a prescription from your vet.
2.) Beware of drug interactions- never carelessly combine drugs except if stated so by the manufacturers.Some drugs cause harmful interactions if combined.That's the reason you should work with your vet.
3.)Make it a habit to read through drug leaflets, literature or instructions before administration.Many farmers don't do this and they end up overdosing or underdosing their animals.The leaflet will always indicate dosage rate and withdrawal period(period during treatment when you should not consume eggs or meat).
4.) Never follow up immediately with drugs after vaccine administration. Seek clearance.As a rule never administer antibiotics two days before or two days after vaccination.Antibiotics will deactivate the vaccines.
5.) Do not prolong Vitamins administration for more than 7-10 days consecutively.Vitamins are not food for the chicken avoid prolonged usage.I bet you know that too much of something is poisonous.It is even costly to buy the vitamins throughout.
6.) Be wary of 'wonder drug'- a single drug that does everything.There is no single drug that does everything.Those are purely hogwash and marketing gimmicks.Be wary of snake oil merchants and charlatans who are hell-bent to milk you dry.With good management,biosecurity and working with a vet most diseases should be put at bay.
7.)Beware of under dosing - this may lead to drug resistance development.If you are not sure work with a vet.Most farmers would rather not spend money on vet thinking that they are being fleeced of their hard earned money.In the end they use all varieties of drugs to no avail.
8.)Insist on completing the course of any drug.Don't stop medicating your birds just becsuse they started showing signs of recovery.If the drug package indicates 5 days treatment then do 5 days.If 3 days then do 3 days.Never ever interrupt the treatment period.
9.) Ensure you understand the mode of administration of any drug.If it's indicated that you should administer a drug through drinking water please do so.If it's through spraying or dusting do so.You will save yourself from losses by following instructions.
10.)Continuous therapy is the administration in drinking water all through the day without interruption.During treatment period give only medicated water all along.
11). Don't continue to abuse a particular drug because of previous testimony.You might continue using drug A or drug B just because it worked the first time not knowing that you are exposing your birds to drug resistance.
12). It is safest to decide on a specific drug type after culture and antibiotics sensitivity in the laboratory.Avoid guesswork.If you care for your health your should care for your animals too.
13). Never forget, its cheaper to prevent than to treat. Biosecurity remains the best measure for disease control.