Fashion Taipei

【Acne Studios｜席捲全世界的 Acne 風潮】
​Acne Studios | The Global Trend of Acne


若要說哪個品牌是為 Y2K 風格的鼻祖，那肯定是熱愛表現自我風格的 Acne Studios！

1997年誕生於瑞典的 Acne Studios ，是由職業歌手 Johnny Johansson 所創立，不同於字面上看似可愛幽默的「痘痘」工作室，實際上是「Ambition to Create Novel Expression」縮寫而成，表達出他們對於「創作新奇手法的野心」。

在大眾對於粉紅色嗤之以鼻的年代，Acne Studios 選擇以「粉紅色縫線牛仔褲、紅色的購物紙袋」表現出以靈魂思想翻轉大眾一昧追求快時尚的價值觀。

更是透過標誌性的臭臉LOGO，表現出瑞典語 Lagom 「適量、剛好」的意味。


｜Y2K—重回全球時尚的千禧風｜

身為精品界的千禧寶寶， Acne Studios 在創作及品牌形象上，喜歡在極簡中突顯亮點。由於不局限於服裝上的設計， Acne Studios 在廣告版面上，也是絕對的天才。

最近 SS23 的宣傳，為慶祝品牌周年慶，特意以粉紅色為基調，透過具象服飾和抽象影片元素張力對比，襯托出千禧世代服裝上標誌性的尖刺元素（ spike ）。

除此之外， Acne Studios 更邀請 2000 年代的知名超模 Devon Aoki 作為這次季度的廣告代言人，完美還原 Y2K 風格的時尚！


｜Normcore—極簡到底的櫥窗設計｜

Acne Studios 延續著 #瑞典式的極簡 風格，儘管每間門市的櫥窗風格千變萬化，卻擁有一樣的「整潔」。例如，立體模特上只背一顆包包，也可能一根欄杆只放一件洋裝，一層架只展示一支跟鞋，亮點式地展示他們的創作，更傳達出 Acne Studios 的品牌風格。


If you had to name the pioneer brand for Y2K style, it would have to be Acne Studios, which is passionate about expressing personal style.

Established in 1997 in Sweden by professional singer Johnny Johansson, Acne Studios is not a literal "acne" studio but an abbreviation for "Ambition to Create Novel Expression."

In an era when the public scorned pink, Acne Studios chose to express a soulful approach that challenged the fast fashion values with "pink-stitched jeans and red shopping bags."

Through their iconic "grinning face" logo, they also express the Swedish concept of "Lagom," which means "just the right amount."


| Y2K - The Millennium Style Revival around the World |

As a millennium baby in the boutique industry, Acne Studios highlights its unique features through minimalism in design and brand image. However, Acne Studios' genius extends beyond fashion design to advertising campaigns.

In the recent promotion of SS23 to celebrate the brand's anniversary, they chose pink as the base color. In addition, they used concrete (clothing) and abstract (video) elements to highlight the iconic spike elements in millennium fashion.

In addition, Acne Studios invited famous supermodel Devon Aoki from the 2000s to be the clotheshorse for this season's advertisement, perfectly restoring Y2K fashion style!


| Normcore - Normcore Window Display Design |

Acne Studios continues with the style, and although the storefront style varies from store to store, they all have the same "neat" feeling. For example, on a three-dimensional model, they may only carry one bag, display one dress on a railing, or show only one pair of shoes on a shelf.

Acne Studios use this kind of concept to highlight its creations in a spotlight-style display and convey the brand style of Acne Studios.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心

【 2023 MET GALA｜致敬大師：牽起傳奇，塑造未來 】2023 MET GALA｜Tribute to Karl Lagerfeld: Legends and Future.


Met Gala 即將在下個月初登場，有著「時尚界奧斯卡」美稱的 Met Gala 今年的紅毯主題是 ——《卡爾拉格斐：線條之美 Karl Lagerfeld：A Line of Beauty 》。


▌ Karl Lagerfeld 認為：「時尚不應該受限於博物館，而是穿梭在日常的大街小巷、在女性的身體上，以及在男性的身體上。」


美國版《Vogue》為紀念這位標誌性設計師的一生，公佈了其 5 月號封面故事，多位與Lagerfeld 有關的設計師為此設計時裝，更與 Karl Lagerfeld 喜愛合作的 10 位模特進行拍攝，揭開此次 Met Gala 的序幕。


｜由時尚大片而成的十段回憶｜

由知名時尚攝影師 Annie Leibovitz 掌鏡，封面由 10 位 Karl Lagerfeld 鍾愛的模特為主演 —— 包含 Anok Yai、 Kendall Jenner、Naomi Campbell、 Gigi Hadid和劉雯等 —— 在巴黎大皇宮拍攝一系列的照片，而大皇宮是 Lagerfeld 創造許多歷史性時裝秀的舉辦地。

此外，集結 10 位頂尖設計師將 Karl Lagerfeld 富有遠見的作品重新詮譯為新設計，展示了 Karl Lagerfeld 受到整整一代創意人士的愛戴與擁護。


：「醜陋也是種美學」— Karl Lagerfeld 的出現為時尚開闢了革新的路徑，不僅如此一切看似的不合理，在 Karl Lagerfeld 的宇宙中都能被當作為素材而生。打破既有的框架、揉合現代語彙，深刻描繪當代的氛圍感。


：不得不承認對多數人而言，Karl Lagerfeld 的設計確實很前衛且帶有解構主義的成分，可這也是為什麼 Karl Lagerfeld 對身型設計上，能夠切換自如並拿捏的恰如其分。


：「叛逆精神」、「女性」在 Lagerfeld 的設計及每場秀中，皆能看見這些元素呈現於焦點之下。女性不僅為 Karl Lagerfeld 的設計靈感繆斯，更因為存在凸顯了價值。


：Karl Lagerfeld 完美捕捉了每一段時光消逝的氣息，並在執掌 Chanel 期間，再次重新詮譯、進化，悄然無聲般的滲進每個理念當中。


：「Lagerfeld」一詞也意味著歷久彌新、真摯、追求工藝，以及帶有幽默感的時尚態度，創建一個個既真實又獨特的時尚觀。


：他將一個個秀場串接起來，就像樹一般，將各個世代及當代的時尚特徵集合而成，猶如時尚版本的百科全書都不為過。


：追隨已不足以形容 Karl Lagerfeld 的設計風格，而是打破原有再造，將時尚湧入並且擁抱大眾文化。

( P.S. 照片中模特Naomi Campbell 身著黑色褲裝和白色襯衫，向Karl Lagerfeld標誌性的黑色領帶致敬，並與Karl Lagerfeld 最珍貴的愛貓 — Choupette 一同入鏡拍攝 )


：當提到 Karl Lagerfeld 時，就會聯想到那件白襯衫，有時會與一條領帶作搭配，還有一些輪廓分明又色彩奪目的珠寶。


：Karl Lagerfeld 講述故事的方式啟發了整個時尚圈，作為一個溝通的角色，Lagerfeld 將不同的元素、設計，甚至是宇宙串連在一個場域內。


：在 Karl Lagerfeld 執掌 Chloé 時代時，將一柔美及女性化的品牌，加入了些有稜角的小巧思，使得推升整體細節的設計感外，更具有剛柔並濟的意味。


will be held on May 1st, and the red carpet theme for this year's Met Gala is “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty”.

According to Lagerfeld, "Fashion should not be confined to museums, but in the streets, on women's bodies, and on men's bodies.

To commemorate the life of Karl Lagerfeld, the American edition of Vogue published the cover story of its May issue, featuring a number of designers associated with Lagerfeld, as well as a photo shoot with 10 models from Lagerfeld's long-time collaboration, to kick off the Met Gala.


｜10 Memories about Lagerfeld｜

Photographed by renowned fashion photographer Leibovitz, the cover features 10 of Lagerfeld's favorite models, including Anok Yai, Kendall Jenner, Naomi Campbell, Gigi Hadid and Liu Wen, and shot at the Grand Palais in Paris, where Lagerfeld created many of his historic fashion shows.

In addition, a collection of 10 designers reinterpreted Lagerfeld's visionary creations into new designs, demonstrating that Lagerfeld is loved by an entire generation of creatives.


: "Ugly is also an aesthetic" - Lagerfeld's emergence has opened a new path for fashion, and not only that, but everything that seems irrational can be used as material in his universe. Breaking down the established framework and incorporating a modern vocabulary, Lagerfeld's work depicts a sense of contemporary atmosphere.

: For most people, Lagerfeld's designs are avant-garde and deconstructivism, but this is also why he can switch between body shapes and design easily.

: "rebellious spirit" and "femininity" are the vital elements in Lagerfeld's design and shows. Women are not only the muse of designs, but also the existence.

: Lagerfeld perfectly captures the atmosphere of each fading moment in time, and during his reign at Chanel, he reinterpreted and evolved into each concept.

John Rogers: "Lagerfeld" also means timelessness, authenticity, the pursuit of craftsmanship, and a sense of humor, creating a vision of fashion that is both authentic and unique.

Margiela: He strung together shows like a tree, bringing together the characteristics of various generations and contemporary fashion.

: Following is no longer enough to describe Lagerfeld's design style, but breaking with the original reinvention, bringing fashion into the mass culture and embracing it.

(P.S. Model Naomi Campbell is pictured in a black pantsuit and white shirt, paying homage to Lagerfeld's iconic black tie, and photographed with Choupette, Karl Lagerfeld's cat,)

: When it comes to Lagerfeld, you think of a white shirt, sometimes paired with a tie, and some hard-edged jewelry.

: Lagerfeld's storytelling has inspired the entire fashion world. As a communicator, Lagerfeld ties together different elements, designs, and even universes in a field.

: When Lagerfeld reigned at Chloé, he fused femininity and fortitude to enhance the overall design.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心

#卡爾拉格斐

【被隱藏在流量下的本質｜聚焦明星光環的時裝週】The essence hidden under stars｜The celebrity halo of fashion week.


許多時尚品牌專注於端出與國際名人合作的精彩瞬間。與其說是為了吸引買家和記者，不如說是為了在社交媒體上引起轟動與熱議。

▌根據國際行銷平台 Lefty 和時尚公關巨頭機構 Karla Otto 於2023年3月21日所發表的《 Women's Fashion Month Roundup：AW23 》，Saint Laurent 可說是本季最熱鬧的秀場，獲得的媒體淨值(EMV)為此次時裝週品牌中最高。

綜觀各大時裝週秀場的發佈，缺少不了的是邀請當家明星為座上嘉賓，可是這個現象是必然的嗎？


｜時尚流量化現象｜

Saint Laurent 能成為本季媒體淨值(EMV)最高的秀場，其歸功於品牌所邀請看秀的名單成首要重點。

由 BLACKPINK 的 Rosé 領銜，光是 IG 中發佈的兩則貼文就超過 EMV 總額的 1／3，其次是 Hailey Bieber以及韓國女演員文佳煐，而其它具影響力則包含 Dua Lipa、Zoe Kravitz 和 Rocco Ritchie等。

：代表著明星對於品牌在 Social media 上取得成功的重要性，光鮮亮麗下伴隨而來的是昂貴的代價。

以 BLACKPINK 為例，每位成員手握多項品牌代言甚至是形象大使的身份，她們的加入的確為品牌帶來媒體聲量，卻也將關注點帶離品牌歷史精神與時尚的本質。


▌從巴黎世家今年2023 FW 的秀場可以發現，第一排總是星光熠熠的明星們不在了，取而代之並呼應秀場的是「回歸設計、回歸品牌本身」。


｜Balenciaga – 探索本質，重新啟程｜

過往 Balenciaga 的秀場集結許多重量級的明星，加上每次秀場佈置都令人出乎意料之外，且服裝多喜歡選用具有偏光材質作為設計。

但這次 Demna 一改過去並說道：「時尚衍然成為娛樂的一種，往往這部分卻掩蓋了它原始的閃亮。」

沒有熟悉的眾星雲集、沒有華麗的秀場佈置，有的是低調且純粹，及重新將目光放回時裝及設計上的秀場。

這也不僅可以反思，「明星光環」下的利弊都有些什麼？


Many fashion brands rely on the exciting moments of collaboration with international celebrities, rather than attracting buyers and journalists. The aim is to create a buzz on social media.

▌According to the Women's Fashion Month Roundup: AW23, published by international marketing platform Lefty and fashion PR company Karla Otto on March 21, Saint Laurent was arguably the hottest show of this season, and received the highest earned media value(EMV) of any fashion week brand.

In the fashion shows, celebrities or influencers are always invited as guests, but is this inevitable?

｜The power of celebrities｜

Saint Laurent had the highest EMV of the season, thanks to the celebrities they invited to the show.

Led by Rosé of BLACKPINK, the two posts she posted on IG accounted for more than one-third of the total EMVs, then followed by Hailey Bieber and Korean actress Mun Ka-Young, while other influencers included Dua Lipa, Zoe Kravitz and Rocco Ritchie.

The data: it represents the importance of celebrities to a brand's success on social media, but it also comes with high price.

In the case of Black pink, each member owns several brand endorsements and even ambassadorship, and their participation in the brand has brought media volume, but also taken the focus away from the spirit of the brand's history and the nature of fashion.

▌From Balenciaga's 2023 FW show, we can find that there are not so many celebrities appeared, and instead, what’s more is focus on design and brand.

｜Balenciaga - Discover the essence and restart｜

In the past, Balenciaga's shows were filled with celebrities who were popular, and each show were beyond everyone’s imagination.

But this time, Demna changed it up and said, "Fashion has become a form of entertainment, which often overshadows its bling.

Instead of the stars and gorgeous show, this time Demna shown the understated and pure, and grabbed everyone’s attention on fashion and design. This is not only a reflection on what are the pros and cons of " the celebrity halo ".

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心

【 智能效應下與時裝的交叉｜是共創美好 ? 還是被主宰 ? 】Fashion Tech｜Will it create a better world ? or be dominated?


延續 23AW 當季以 科技 x 時尚的時裝週話題，無論以哪種方式看待「科技」，創新的結合不僅僅是在秀場上展示其新系列，而是鼓勵我們審視人們與技術的複雜關係。

｜Coperni – 譜出與機器的共榮共存｜

23 SS 秀場上 Bella Hadid 的身體如畫布般被噴上由白色噴霧製成的時裝，當時引起不少媒體的大篇幅報導，許多人大為震驚更超出預期，原來科技產物下的專利噴霧材料可以應用於人體與設計上。

延續應用於服裝上的技術， 23 FW融合性能、技術和時尚，將美國波士頓動力公司的 Spot® #機器狗 與模特一同出現於秀場上，不僅如此還與模特有許多的互動。

模特 Rianne Van Rompaey 走近一機器狗並與它有近距離的接觸，開啟此次的時裝秀。

▌整場互動看似以一種隨意地方式走動，像是 Spot® 和模特間自然傳遞手提包。藉由機器狗的伸展、行進和模特間的互動，除了再次驚豔四座，席捲大眾的目光，也為該品牌創造更多的發展性與創造性。


｜Courrèges – 科技制約下的人類行為｜

以資訊爆炸的現代摩登生活為靈感，集結人們的日常標準配備 — 智慧型手機，所構成科技發展下的秀場反思，勾勒出 2023 早秋系列的背景敘事。

▌ Courrèges 的第一位模特從霧中走出來，低頭認真滑著手機，LED 螢幕照亮了她的臉，瞬間在穿越之際的明暗間似乎已透露出答案。

背景配樂中類似 Siri 的人工智能聲音不斷地說道：「天空是藍色的嗎？」—— 這情境好似一早起床睜開眼就呼喊Siri 今天的天氣預報，而不是望向窗外、看著頭頂上的天空是晴是陰。

設計師 Nicolas di Felice 提及手機的發明不僅改變在人與人間的社交上，連帶的影響到身體姿勢，間接設計衣著上也產生了漣漪的作用。Nicolas di Felice 更留下值得反覆咀嚼的一句話：「我不批判，但我質疑，並嘗試反思。」


Continuing the topic of technology and fashion at Fashion Week 23AW, regardless of the way we view 'technology', the combination of innovation is not only about showcasing its new collection on the runway, but also encouraging us to examine the complex relationship between people and technology.

｜Coperni - A coexistence with machines｜

At the 23 SS show, Bella Hadid's body was sprayed with white spray as a canvas, which attracted a lot of media coverage, and many were shocked and even exceeded expectations that the patented spray material of technology could be applied to the human body.

Continuing with the technology applied to the garments, 23 FW blended performance, technology and fashion, featuring the Spot® with model in the show, and not only that, but also a lot of interaction with the models.

Model Rianne Van Rompaey approached a robot dog and got up close to open the fashion show. The whole interaction seemed to move in a casual way, like a natural handbag passing between Spot® and the model.

By stretching and marching the robot dog and interacting with the models, the show not only amazed the audience again, but also created more development and creativity for the brand.


｜Courrèges - Human behaviour under the constraint of technology｜

Inspired by the information explosion of modern life, the show was a reflection on the development of technology by combining our daily accessory - smartphone - to outline the background narrative of the 2023 early fall collection.

The first model of Courrèges emerged from the fog, looking down at her phone, the LED screen illuminating her face, and the answer seemed to be revealed in a moment of light and darkness in between.

The Siri-like artificial intelligence voice in the background keeps saying, "Is the sky blue? -- It's like waking up in the morning and calling out to Siri for today's weather forecast, instead of looking out the window to see in person if the sky is clear or cloudy.

Nicolas di Felice, the designer, mentioned that the invention of the cell phone has not only changed the way people interact with each other socially, but has also had a ripple effect on body posture and the design of clothes. He said: "I don't criticize, but I question and try to reflect. "

Photos from the Internet.

#台北時尚新創中心

【臺北時裝週 AW23 CHARINYEH｜無何有之鄉Land of Nothingness】Taipei Fashion Week AW23 CHARINYEH | Land of Nothingness


成立於1985年的CHARINYEH，是設計師葉珈伶的同名品牌，乘載著台灣黃金風華風光以及新潮設計，訴說台灣的故事、共同經歷過的時代。


｜疫情下的台灣—反烏托邦｜

從2019年開始，全球人民起經歷了疫情咆哮的時期、烏俄戰爭，所有的艱難困苦都在一時浮現，我們似乎開始過上不太一樣的人生、不太一樣的視角。接續著上一季的主題，CHARINYEH 本季將這樣無以名狀的情緒，透過 23AW 主題《無何有之鄉》中「反烏托邦」的意象呈現。

AW23 秀場上，隨著白色垂幕的擺動，律動間飄渺雲霧行走呈現飄動與空氣感，CHARINYEH 在投射幕以微電影的手法，將背景打造成砂質感，營造復古與虛幻。

以「共時」概念，伴隨著雲霧繚繞，帶出 228 事件後，白色恐怖時代下台灣的反烏托邦現象，帶領我們走入戒嚴年代下人們的理想國度並將其表現在2023AW 服裝上。

別於早年設計的貼身流行，CHARINYEH 透過寬鬆、中性調的風格，採用特殊剪裁與拼接撞色，帶領我們走入中西碰撞下的台灣，並與當時代表知識份子的精梳棉襯衫與復古西裝料、花紗毛呢混搭，藉此強調賦權與形式轉移的漸變過程，象徵著人民與權威雙方立場轉化互換，特別是帶有「開拓」意象的牛仔與格紋。模特自信挺拔的神態，彰顯時代下知識份子為了追求自由、突破自我的反叛精神。


Established in 1985, CHARINYEH is the eponymous brand of designer Yeh Cha-Rin. It carries the glory and splendor of Taiwan's golden era and avant-garde design, telling the story of Taiwan and the period we have shared.

| Taiwan under the Pandemic - Anti-Utopia |

Starting in 2019, people worldwide have been experiencing a period of pandemic and war, and all the difficulties have surfaced for a while. As a result, we have started living different lives with different perspectives. Following the theme of the previous season, this season, CHARINYEH presents the image of "anti-utopia" in the article "Land of Nothingness" in 23AW.

At the AW23 fashion show, with the swaying of the white curtains, the ethereal clouds walk in rhythm, presenting a sense of flow and airiness. Through the use of microfilm on the projection screen, CHARINYEH creates a sandy texture background to create a retro and surreal atmosphere.

The concept of "synchronicity," accompanied by the mist, brings out the anti-utopian phenomenon in Taiwan during the White Terror period after the 228 Incident, leading us into the ideal country of the martial law era and expressing it in the 2023AW clothing.

Unlike the close-fitting popular designs of earlier years, CHARINYEH leads us into Taiwan under the collision of Chinese and Western styles through a loose and neutral tone, using special cutting and contrasting colors to mix and match the comb cotton shirt and retro suit fabric and gauze wool, thus emphasizing the gradual process of empowerment and transformation of form, symbolizing the conversion and exchange of positions between the people and the authorities, especially the cowboys and checkered patterns with the imagery of "exploration." Furthermore, the models' confident and upright postures highlight the intellectuals' rebellious spirit in pursuing freedom and self-transcendence during the era.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心
#臺北時裝週
#葉珈伶

【打造一代浮誇造型的義大利品牌Moschino｜Jeremy Scott的退場】Italian brand Moschino, the creator of the extravagant style | Jeremy Scott's departure.


如果我們不知道Jeremy Scott，也一定看過他設計的紅毯造型！


｜Moschino—浮誇、大膽、放肆｜

成立於1983年的Moschino一直都是走色彩繽紛、浮誇的設計，這類的手法，是為當時人們的生活寫照，浮誇、大膽、放肆。

作為高奢品牌的Moschino，除了以吸睛的服裝吸引著名流為他們的設計買單，更開創下游市場服務一般大眾。這樣名利雙收的品牌卻迎來他們的低谷，創辦人Franco Moschino由於HIV病毒感染，泯然於世間。Rossella Jardini 創意總監的接手，持續發揚Franco對於時裝的堅持，傳達對於時尚界的反諷以及反省。


｜Jeremy Scott—時尚界的普普藝術家｜

就如同一顆彗星般，畢業於Pratt Institute學院的Jeremy Scott，是大家眼中的搞怪天才。在2013年開始接管Moschino後，也在每次時裝展演中，應證了這樣的想法。

2014年以麥當勞造型打破大家眼鏡的Moschino，使得Jeremy Scott受到極大的關注。

Moschino一直以來是以反諷意味聞名，在Jeremy Scott接管之後，徹底翻轉了Moschino的老品牌形象，更嘲諷起了席捲消費市場的「快時尚」。除了「麥當勞」造型，接續著登場的「芭比娃娃」造型，不但相當貼近生活，似乎也傳遞了普普藝術的價值。


｜Love & Peace—傳播對於時尚的熱愛｜

這樣自由地把生活中稀鬆平常的元素加入，看似是一件簡單的舉動，實際上開啟了串連起了街頭平民藝術和高級時裝的先河，也是因為這樣，Jeremy Scott被視為大膽、又有其生命和創意的。

震驚時尚界的Jeremy Scott，來自於美國的鄉村小鎮，或許是因為鄉村的簡樸以及保守，作為一名同性戀的他並不受到尊重，也因為浮誇的穿著備受異樣眼光。

或許是因為童年受到的社會制約，在Jeremy的創作中，我們不約而同地看見「愛」和「自由」。

在展場上，他把自己視為藝術的一部分，不論第幾場秀，都會跟著模特從頭走到尾。他對於生活、時尚的熱愛，是可以透過每一次的系列中看見的。

在Jeremy Scott的作品中，加入了童年各種沒有被允許的欲望，藉由和名流的合作以及創作中的共鳴，他自己也成為了時裝界的明星。

透過服裝，將各種看似不會被重視的元素加入，賦予了它們新的連結，也傳播著對於生命的態度。


Even if you don't know Jeremy Scott, you must have seen the red carpet-designs he created!

｜Moschino – Extravagant, bold, and unrestrained｜
Established in 1983, Moschino has always been known for its colorful and extravagant designs, reflecting the life of the time, which was flamboyant, bold, and unrestrained.

As a high-end luxury brand, Moschino attracts celebrities with its eye-catching clothing designs and serves the general public with downstream markets. Despite this double-edged success, the brand encountered a downturn when its founder Franco Moschino died of HIV infection. However, Rossella Jardini, the creative director who took over, continued to uphold Franco's persistence in fashion and conveyed a sense of irony and reflection on the fashion industry.

｜Jeremy Scott – The Pop Art Artist in the Fashion World｜
After graduating from Pratt, Jeremy Scott is known as a quirky genius. Since taking over Moschino in 2013, he has demonstrated this idea in every fashion show.

In 2014, Moschino's McDonald's-inspired design broke the norm and brought Jeremy Scott great attention. Moschino has always been famous for its irony. After Jeremy Scott took over, he completely transformed the old image of Moschino's brand and even satirized the "fast fashion" sweeping the consumer market. In addition to the "McDonald's" design, the "Barbie" design on the 2015 runway approached everyday life and conveyed the value of Pop Art.

｜Love & Peace – Spreading the love for fashion｜
Incorporating familiar elements of life in an accessible manner into his design may seem like a simple act. In fact, it opened up the connection between street art and high fashion. Because of this, Jeremy Scott is seen as a bold, creative, and vivid artist.

Jeremy Scott, who shocked the fashion world, comes from a small rural town in the United States. Perhaps because of the simplicity and conservatism of the countryside, as a gay, he did not receive respect and was looked down upon because of his flamboyant attire.

Perhaps because of the social constraints he faced during childhood, we can see a prominent sign in Jeremy's creations -"love" and "freedom." At the exhibition, he regards himself as part of the art, walking like the models in every show. Furthermore, due to his creation, we can see his love for life and fashion in every series.

Jeremy Scott's works incorporated childhood desires that were not allowed. Through cooperation with celebrities and resonance in his creations, he has become a fashion star. He gives them some brand new connections by adding various seemingly unimportant elements to clothing.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心


#質物霽畫

【秀場元素 Details｜Khoki施展魔法帶你走入中世紀後童話美學】Runway Details | Khoki Brings Medieval Fairy Tale Aesthetics to Life with Magic .


近期舉行的東京時裝週，在大力宣傳的「戲劇」元素中，可以看到各品牌爭奇鬥豔，而 就像是一顆蘊藏著秘密的俄羅斯娃娃，不斷挑起觀眾的想像。


—利用光線與布幕，柔和分割出空間感

在昏黃燈光籠罩的現場，一條條布幕籠罩著，分割成了數個空間，像是切換夢境和現實的手。

去年年底到年初在台北忠泰美術館的 #感知現場 Sense on Site 也是類似的手法。

藝術家王德瑜與建築師林柏陽，將看似平凡無奇的展覽空間，透過布幕、光影，以及堅硬和柔軟的觸覺差異，營造一場由觀者自身探索的感知空間。


｜Sense on Site—Khoki 結合的民族和童年｜

由於日本近期 hide your face 的風氣， Khoki 設計師是極其低調的，他們並不想讓他們的生活成了模糊作品的焦點，除了放大品牌特色「民族、工藝、前衛、童年」也增加了這次系列的奇幻性質。

在 KHOKI 2023 fall/winter runway 上，藉由吊起的褶皺布幕，以及簡單的木板走道，除了在空間上營造劇場和夢境。

隨著觀賞服裝上各類時期元素，文藝復興時期的輪狀皺褶領、 17 世紀的鳥嘴瘟疫醫生、薩滿巫師等跨時期的奇幻結合，似乎是把我們帶入了童年時期的彩繪讀本，交融著文藝復興後各類意識的超現實狂想。

KHOKI 的秀場整體來看，似乎都是歐美童話元素的特調，但類似電玩遊戲的場景以及人物設定，其實更像是日本創作家的手筆。透過服飾上高超的拼貼工藝以及如 Quilts、Cantas 和 Suzani 等傳統紡織技術加上日本武士元素的添加，讓整份作品更具備民族文化的氣息。


In the recent , various brands competed for attention amidst the heavy promotion of "dramatic" elements. Khoki was like a Russian doll with hidden secrets, continuously stimulating the audience's imagination.

—Using light and drapes to partition space softly

In the dim yellow light, drapes covered and divided the area into multiple spaces, like a hand switching between dream and reality.

A similar technique was used in the Sense on Site exhibition held at the Chung Tai Art Gallery in Taipei from the end of last year to the beginning of this year. Artists Wang De-yu and architect Lin Bo-yang transformed an ordinary exhibition space through drapes, lighting, and the difference between hard and soft textures to create a sensory room for visitors to explore.

｜Sense on Site - Khoki's fusion of ethnicity and childhood｜

Due to the recent trend of "hide your face" in Japan, Khoki's designers maintain a shallow profile, not wanting to make their lives blur their work's focus. Aside from emphasizing the brand's "ethnicity, craftsmanship, avant-garde, and childhood" characteristics, they also added a fantastical element to their latest collection.

Crinkled drapes and simple wooden walkways were suspended at the KHOKI 2023 fall/winter runway to create a theatrical and dreamlike space. Along with the clothing, various elements from different periods were combined, such as Renaissance ruffled collars, 17th-century plague doctors' beak masks, and shamanic wizards. These cross-era fantasy combinations take us into the illustrated books of our childhood, blending surreal fantasies with various consciousness that came after Renaissance.

Although the KHOKI runway show seems full of Western fairy tale elements, the scenes, and character designs are more like those of Japanese creators. Furthermore, through advanced patchwork techniques on the clothing and the addition of traditional textile techniques such as Quilts, Cantas, and Suzani, as well as Japanese samurai elements, the entire work exudes an intense ethnic and cultural atmosphere.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心 #東京時裝週

【FW23 Fashion Trend：Motorcore｜賽車時尚的復甦】FW23 Fashion Trend：Motorcore｜Revival of Racing Fashion.


何謂 Motorcore？

近年的時尚圈可謂百花齊放，隨著文化與生活方式的改變，掀起各式風潮，諸如 Vibe、Gorpcore、Blokecore、Cleanfit 等都是近年火熱的穿搭風氣。

自從去年以來，隨著一級方程式賽車的以及 Netflix 熱門紀錄片《Drive to Survive》的流行，不難看見賽車文化在社群媒體的能見度漸趨高漲，一個新興的詞彙逐漸在市場上悄然發酵，那便是「Motorcore」。


｜Motorcore—單品解析｜

Motorcore 顯而易見就是將賽車場上的服裝延伸至日常生活中的搭配，舉凡賽車夾克、飛行外套、緊身衣、車隊維修人員的連身工作褲、賽車女郎的迷你裙及皮質馬甲等，都是呈現 Mortorcore 的關鍵；而在材質上，皮革、亮面尼龍會是常見的布料選擇。

鞋款與配飾也是 Motorcore 的一大重點，鞋款部分通常會選擇粗靴、工程師靴搭配，而飾品部分會盡量以簡潔為主；彩繪口罩、代表車隊的卡車帽、運動風格的太陽眼鏡和火焰圖騰能將 Motorcore 詮釋得更加完整。


｜Motorcore—2023 FW｜

在 2023 FW 的時裝週上，可以觀察到許多品牌推出了賽車風格相關單品，Jil Sander 便在開場以皮夾克與皮褲的摩托車風格造型亮相；Gucci 的男裝系列和 Ottolinger 也在 2023 年秋冬系列中將奢華賽車風格推上時裝週的伸展台；Balenciaga 所推出的 Tyrex 靴子完全展現了 Demna Gvasalia 對摩托車文化的熱愛。


｜What’s Motorcore？｜

In recent years, the fashion industry has seen a variety of trends emerge with changes in culture and lifestyle. Popular clothing styles include Vibe, Gorpcore, Blokecore, and Cleanfit.

Since last year, the popularity of Formula One racing and the Netflix hit documentary series "Drive to Survive" have raised the visibility of car culture on social media. A new term is gradually emerging in the market, and it's called "Motorcore".


｜Motorcore—Analysis of products｜

"Motorcore is essentially an extension of racing apparel into everyday life, encompassing items such as racing jackets, flight jackets, bodysuits, mechanic jumpsuits, mini-skirts, and leather vests worn by racing girls. Materials such as leather and shiny nylon are commonly used.

Footwear and accessories are also important elements of Motorcore fashion, with heavy boots and engineer boots being common choices for footwear and simple accessories being preferred. Painted masks, team trucker hats, sporty sunglasses, and flame motifs complete the Motorcore look."


｜Motorcore—2023 FW｜

At the 2023 FW Fashion Week, many brands showcased racing-inspired items. Jil Sander opened with a motorcycle-style look featuring leather jackets and pants. Gucci's menswear collection and Ottolinger also brought luxury racing styles to the runway for their 2023 fall/winter collections. Balenciaga's Tyrex boots perfectly captured Demna Gvasalia's passion for motorcycle culture.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心

【秀場元素 Details｜Louis Vuitton 重現小巴黎風光】Runway Details | Louis Vuitton Recreates the Scenery of Little Paris.


奧賽博物館 Musée d’Orsay 沙龍的 2023 Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter Runway ，是出於路易威登邀請的裝置藝術家 Philippe Parreno 和 James Chinlund ，以及奧斯卡聲音設計師 共同打造的一場重現巴黎風光秀場。

位在塞納河畔旁的 #奧賽博物館 Musée d’Orsay ，是當時 20 世紀的法國為了展現國家富強的萬國博覽會而建造，原來是運行電氣火車的火車站，由於現代科技的快速發展被屢次汰換，後來才成了現在以主要收納歐美印象畫作聞名的博物館。


— Louis Vuitton以發跡的法國巴黎為主軸，透過現場「聲音、光影的變化」，表現出法式風情。

在佈滿神話彩繪拱頂的博物館舞廳內，以精緻為特色的 Louis Vuitton ，藉由打造挑高的舞台來展現他們對於秀場的小巧思。

透過模特登場上 Runway ，根鞋和印著 LV 圖樣石磚板的迴響聲，模擬街道的實際聲響。

秀場進行中，環境圍繞著熟悉的汽車聲、路人的對談、巴士的進站、若有似無飄揚著的樂器聲，帶領我們走進這座城市獨有的喧囂。隨著模特的陸續進場，光影模擬著打雷，淅瀝的雨聲伴著雷聲迴盪在秀場。

這場玩轉聲響的饗宴，跟隨著不斷變換的環境音、人聲、樂器、喧鬧，想要展現的不僅是 Louis Vuitton 主題的法式風情，更想要透過身歷其境的音響效果，傳達法式風格並非展現在舞台模特上，而是存在於每個人。


The Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter runway show in 2023 at the Musée d'Orsay Salon was a collaboration between installation artist Philippe Parreno and James Chinlund, and the Oscar-winning sound designer Nicolas Becker, who together created a Parisian scenery on the runway.

The Musée d'Orsay, located near the Seine River, was originally a train station that operated electric trains for the 1900 World's Fair to showcase the strength and prosperity of France. However, rapid technological advancements forced the train station to change. Recently, it became a museum famous for its collection of European and American impressionist paintings.

-Louis Vuitton, born in Paris, used the city as the central theme and expressed the French style through the changes in "sound and light" at the venue.

In the museum ballroom, decorated with mythical murals, Louis Vuitton showcased their delicate features by creating a raised stage to show their small ideas for the runway. The sound of footsteps and echoing LV-patterned stone slabs simulated the actual sounds of the street. The sound of cars, people's conversations, and soft instrumental music led us into the unique bustle of the city. As models continued to walk the runway, the simulated lighting thunder and the sound of dripping rain accompanied the rumble echoing in the venue.

This feast of sound manipulation, with ever-changing environmental sounds, voices, instruments, and noise, aims not only to showcase the French style of Louis Vuitton's runway theme, but also to convey through the immersive sound effects that French style is not only shown on stage models but exists in everyone.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心

【 Fairycore｜奇幻仙子交織而成的藝術 】
Fairycore｜Art of the Fairy.


TikTok 的出現為時尚圈颳起許多新風潮，從某種意義上豐富了我們的穿衣風格 — 就是其中之一。

Fairycore不僅以休閒的形式出現，卻又同時駕馭秀場與紅毯。


｜充滿靈性的fairycore｜

Fairycore 的雛型源於歐洲民間傳說，仙子、仙女、精靈等被認為活在神話當中，而這些小精靈時而調皮搗蛋、時而心地善良，不變的是 — 帶有仙氣與古靈精怪的時尚與美感。因此，形成一種異想天開的精靈美學。

Fairycore整體以柔和色調為主，並將蝴蝶、蝴蝶結和仙女翅膀等元素結合於服飾當中。

▌ L'OFFICIEL 也表示：「蝴蝶結、絲帶與閃閃發亮的面料被用來突出 Fairycore的特色 — 輕盈、奇幻、童話般的時尚風格。」


而在當今時尚趨勢互相感染之下，許多審美傾向並沒有固定的發展規律，Fairycore 也不例外。與 #油漬搖滾（Grunge）、 及 #田園風格 等多種審美趨勢結合下的 Fairy Grunge，關注度同樣居高不下。並且從去年開始至今，無論是秀場或是紅毯上皆能欣賞到 Fairycore 的身影，可見影響力不一般！


｜當童話靈感接管秀場｜

在落幕不久的紐約時裝週中，可以瞧見品牌 此次將「仙女」的概念搬上秀場，搭配哥德式童話風格，上演了一場大型的、精緻的、銀色閃光流動的宴會現場。

而模特們身穿絲滑光亮的連衣裙、花邊襯裙和蕾絲製成的服裝，偶爾還會戴上一對仙女翅膀，打破 Fairycore 所呈現的甜美感，卻給足眾人對仙女的幻想。

設計師姐妹花 Kate 和 Laura Mulleavy 用自身對傳說的想像，構建了身臨其境的暗黑傳說世界，而你可以相信仙女確實存在於 Rodarte 所創造的空間。


｜從穿搭風格延燒至妝容｜

不僅在服飾上，Fairycore 此種風格的地位不同凡響，甚至擴大到應用於模特妝容當中！

觀看 Thom Browne 2023 FW 秀場，每位模特的妝容看似奇幻、俏皮，又不失童話氣息的空靈感，所呈現的氛圍與 Fairycore 不謀而合。

此外，在 Sandy Liang 的秀場也可發現 — 使用具高度光澤感的彩妝品，及哥德式唇妝打造甜美而專屬自己個性的精靈感妝容。

The emergence of TikTok has enriched our style in a sense - is one of them. Fairycore is not only casual, but it also can dominate the runway and the red carpet.


｜Full of spiritual fairycore｜

Fairycore originated from European folklore, where fairies, faes, and elves were believed to live in mythology, and these little elves were sometimes mischievous and sometimes kind-hearted, but the one thing that remained the same was their fairy and quirky fashion and beauty. Therefore, the formation of “fairycore”.

Overall, color tone of fairycore is soft, with elements such as butterflies, bows and fairy wings combined into the clothing. L'Officiel also said, "Bows, ribbons and shiny fabrics are used to highlight fairycore's characteristic, which represents light, whimsical, fairy-tale fashion style.

With fashion trends frequently interacting with each other nowadays, many aesthetic tendencies do not have any limitations, and so does fairycore. Fairy Grunge, which is a combination of various aesthetic trends such as grunge, Y2K, and cottagecore, has also been receiving a lot of attention. Since last year, fairycore can be seen in shows and red carpets, which shows its influence!


｜When fairy tale inspiration takes over the show｜

During the New York Fashion Week, Rodarte brought the concept of "fairy" into the show, and with the Gothic fairy tale style. A large, exquisite, silver glittering banquet was staged.

The models wore silky dresses, lace petticoats and outfits made by lace, and some certain models were assigned to wear a pair of fairy wings. It broke the sweetness of fairycore but fulfilled everyone’s fantasy of fairies.

Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy use their own imagination of legends to create an immersive dark legendary world, and you can believe that fairies actually exist in the Rodarte.


｜From dressing style to makeup｜

Fairycore not only gets ahead in clothing, but also in makeup! At the Thom Browne 2023 FW show, each model's makeup looked fantastical, lively, and fairy-tale inspired, presenting an atmosphere that coincided with fairycore.

Furthermore, Sandy Liang's show also can be found the spiritual of fairycore, for instance, the use of highly glossy makeup and goth lip to create a sweet but personalized look.

Photos from the Internet.


#台北時尚新創中心