Siegelson

Congratulations to the MFA Boston and jewelry curator Emily Stoehrer on the phenomenal installation of the new permanent jewelry exhibition in the Rita J. and Stanley H. Kaplan Family Foundation Gallery. There you can visit the Boivin ruby and amethyst articulated starfish brooch owned by actress Claudette Colbert that was acquired by the museum from Siegelson.
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Art Deco Rock Crystal and Diamond Ring by Cartier, Paris, circa 1930
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Cartier created this important Art Deco design on the cusp of a more serious era. The 1929 Stock Market crash ended the “crazy years” and had a sobering effect on art and design. Cartier moved away from bright, exuberant colors in this piece, reducing it to a minimalist aesthetic that allowed the form to celebrate the play of light and dark. The firm had mastered the use of optically clear rock crystals with their mystery clocks in the previous decades, and here made the material wearable. This exceptional ring, a flight of creativity is unlike anything else Cartier created at the time and elevates jewelry to art. Message us for more information or to purchase.
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The quintessential Jazz Age jewel: Art Deco Rock Crystal and Diamond Sautoir by Georges Fouquet, Paris, circa 1925
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Pair of Art Deco Clip Brooches by Cartier, London, circa 1930
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After World War I, social and technological changes influenced fashion and jewelry design. The elaborate dresses and restricted hourglass figure popular with women at the turn of the century was replaced with the flapper look—comfortable drop-waist daytime dresses with raised hemlines and long A-line sleeveless dresses with revealing necklines for the evening. The new fashions were simpler than previous eras allowing for ease of movement and focusing on sumptuous materials and interesting draping or monotone beadwork that created the perfect backdrop for the new jewels of the era. The dress clip became the essential jewel in the 1920s and 1930s. Women were drawn to the versatility of the jewel, clipping them to necklines, shoulders, lapels, handbags, the hair, or even the wrist opening of a coat.
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The wonderfully dynamic Ruby, Rose Quartz, and Enamel “Fleur” Brooch by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1936.

The most exquisite Art Deco diamond ring to cross our desk.
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Art Deco Diamond Ring by Van Cleef and Arpels, Paris, 1920
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This magnificent Tank ring is by Boucheron, 1943! Thank you for all your wonderful guesses. This exceptional piece is bold and wearable and sure to be eye catching. Swipe to see an editorial from 1943 showing Boucheron’s strong architectural style.
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Siegelson presents two exceptional heart rings created a century apart. Which would you choose? The Art Deco Heart-Shaped Diamond Ring, circa 1925, or the Heart-Shaped Ruby and Diamond Ring by Siegelson? DM for more info or to make one of these rings yours!
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"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye.” - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
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Say "Happy Valentine's Day, DEAR," with a set of Acrostic Stacking Rings by Siegelson, New York, following in a long tradition of jewelry symbolizing sentiment. Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, and Ruby spell our DEAR.
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Gold “Paillette” Double Curb Link Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, circa 1950, Manufactured by Jacques Lenfant for Georges Lenfant.
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From the 1950s to the 1970s, Jacques Lenfant created superb goldwork, with each necklace and bracelet more complex than the last. He was highly sought-after by the great French houses including Cartier, Hermes, and Van Cleef & Arpels. His work explored movement and texture and this necklace features his iconic woven “paillette” texture meaning sequins, acknowledging the way the chain glitters in the light. The beautifully constructed chain features doubled links that graduate in size, a beautiful and powerful design.
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Lenfant looked at chains as a “harmony of sounds, shapes and textures” as he wrote in his book Le livre de la chaîne. He referred to the “rustle of rolling parts, which slide against each other [like] chain bells” and said that jewels should be “in every gesture of life.” By considering the construction of chains from all the senses, Lenfant created masterpieces, as shown by this exquisite necklace for Van Cleef & Arpels. It is a rare and desirable addition to any collection.

Which would you choose to wear while ringing in the New Year? An exceptional selection of modern gold bracelets from Van Cleef & Arpels and Jacques Lenfant, circa 1940-50.
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Top three are VCA, bottom is Lenfant. Bracelet on the left and second from right are SOLD, DM for more information on the others!

In 1933 Jeanne Toussaint, a visionary with superb taste, took over as director of the luxury jewelry department at Cartier. She moved the company away from the structured jewels of the Art Deco and created colorful, oversized pieces that brought playfulness to the dark times of World War II. Toussaint remained deeply connected to the design roots of the company—after all she was the inspiration for the panthère—and looked back at previous forms, reviving Chimeras and panthers with modern materials and design. She enjoyed oversized cocktail rings, and an early version of a half-and-half ring in diamonds and rubies appeared in Vogue in 1937 and in Femina in 1947. It was again featured on the cover of Vogue in 1956 along with a set of Cartier jewelry. Toussaint’s exploration of unusual rings was iconic and four of her oversized ring designs were the central feature of a Harper’s Bazaar cover in 1947. The description read “First view of fine rings from Paris . . . New altitudinous dimension for a ring and the hand that wears it.”
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This ring is the perfect festive addition to any collection.
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$siegelson

Art Moderne Platinum and Diamond “Trombino” Ring by Bulgari, Rome, circa 1938
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In 1932, Giorgio Bulgari made the very first Trombino or “little trumpet,” set entirely with diamonds, as an engagement ring for his future wife, Leonilde. From this romantic start, the firm came up with one of their most iconic and long-lasting designs. Trombino rings are set with a shank or round diamonds accented with a graduated row of baguette diamonds on the shoulders tapered down from the central gemstone. The early rings are all diamond, but over the years Bulgari has reserved these rings for exceptional stones. Elizabeth Taylor purchased a version with a sapphire in 1971.
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Bulgari was popular with Hollywood stars who recognized the oversized glittering jewels as capturing the spirit of La Dolce Vita “the sweet life.” Anna Magnani, the explosive Italian actress who won the 1955 academy award for Tenesee William’s Rose Tattoo, wore her diamond Trombino to several awards ceremony the following year, including when she gave the best actor Oscar to Yul Brynner. The Trombino is a bold, statement ring meant to draw attention to the hand as it rested on the stem of a fluted glass or was pressed against a fabulous silk dress; it is just as important and eye catching today.
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Check our stories for more!

The perfect bracelet when you need some help with your poker face.

Gold Playing Card Charm Bracelet by Hermès, Paris, circa 1960, Manufactured by Jacques Lenfant of Georges Lenfant

Playing cards are ubiquitous and lave a long history, but paper is fragile and thus the origin of playing cards has been lost to time. They first appeared in Europe in the late 14th century, possibly via trade routes from Asia. Like the cards used today, the deck had 52 cards and four suits. The earliest decks were luxurious hand-painted items owned by royalty, but eventually quicker methods of production made them more readily available. The four suits we use today—hearts, spades, diamonds, and clubs—were created in 15th century France. The final innovation of the joker came from the United States in the 1860s; the wild card that trumps all.  

Nearly as storied as a deck of cards, charm bracelets have a long history, but became quite popular in the wake of World War II, after soldiers would send home meaningful trinkets and charms for remembrance. The playful movement of a well-made charm bracelet were representative of these celebratory post-war years. Hermès began offering fine jewelry in the 1950s and turned to the premier maker of gold chains, Jacques Lenfant, who create intricate and substantial works for all the best houses. This wonderful card charm bracelet is an unusual and whimsical piece. The card motif has broad appeal, and each suite is represented, as is the all-important jester. Including the fifth card made for a more balanced composition and allowed for a subtle and clever move.

Great gold bracelets move fast! The one from our last post sold immediately and a few others haven't even made it to posting (the palmette on the left is sold!) We are pleased to show you the most fantastic, chunky, bracelet that we have been keeping to ourselves. The Gold “Vé” Bracelet by Jacques Lenfant for Georges Lenfant, Paris, circa 1950.
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Beginning in the 1950s, Jacques Lenfant became known for his superb goldwork, with each necklace and bracelet more complex than the last. His work explored movement and texture and this bracelet is one of his most impressive with wonderful heft and exquisite movement. The “Vé” link, as Lenfant called it, is created from a single long oval link that is cut in half at an angle, one side flipped over, and then rewelded to create a v-shaped link, which he also called a “folded” link. The links are then connected at the center of the V, creating a supple spine-like movement. Impressively, with one end fixed in place, this bracelet can be turned completely over. The flexibility makes it wonderful to wear.
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Lenfant looked at chains as a “harmony of sounds, shapes and textures” as he wrote in his book Le livre de la chaîne. He referred to the “rustle of rolling parts, which slide against each other [like] chain bells.” By considering the construction of chains from all the senses, Lenfant became a master of construction, as shown by this exquisite bracelet. A masterpiece of midcentury design, this bracelet would be an essential element of any collection.
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One of the most intricate and fantastic gold bracelets we have ever seen. This Gold “Double Chain” Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, circa 1950, is wonderfully oversized and almost appears as if it is two bracelets looped and coiled together. It is instantly appealing and a pleasure to wear.
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More info in our stories! Please contact us for purchase.

A Chalcidian bronze Greek helm, 6th century BC, with the ridged dome form Belperron created in her casque ring. From the .
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The Gold “Casque” Ring by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1965, available at Siegelson.
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Suzanne Belperron designed this sculptural ring as a ridged dome form, inspired by an antique casque or armored helm with a ridge along the top. There were examples in Hellenistic and Ancient Roman cultures of such helmets and Belperron translated the shape beautifully into a ring. She particularly loved the pure gold hue of ancient Greek treasures, and she worked closely with the jeweler Société Groëné et Darde to create or vierge, virgin gold, which required the technique of or doublé, or doubled gold. They employed 22-karat gold to achieve the desired hue, but the high karat is soft, so the workshop added an 18-karat gold backing, reinforcing the jeweled forms. Belperron would later chisel, hammer and burnish the virgin gold surfaces to achieve her desired aesthetic.
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Gold “Casque” Ring by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1965
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We couldn't wait to show you the beautiful ear studs and navette-cut diamond ring that just came off the bench. These antique stones are mounted in modern platinum settings from Siegelson. They are well priced to make the perfect gift for Mother's Day! (Or let's be honest, any day.) Wouldn't she be delighted?
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The spiral, one of the oldest and widest used motifs, is found in petroglyphs in Utah and Megalithic structures in Ireland, Ancient Egyptian tombs, and a 20,000 year old mammoth ivory plaque from Mal’ta in Siberia. The figure continues to inspire artists, notably Hokusai, Edward Weston, and Robert Smithson in his iconic earthwork Spiral Jetty at Great Salt Lake in Utah. This pair of aquamarine and diamond earrings by Cartier wonderfully employs the spiral motif in a sweeping curl of sparking blue and white terminating in a square aquamarine. They are just as dynamic and wearable as when they were created in the Art Deco period.
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Art Deco Aquamarine and Diamond Ear Clips by Cartier, London, circa 1935
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Favored by the Greeks and Romans for portraits, the luminous pale-blue stone aquamarine has long been used in jewelry design. High quality aquamarine is difficult to find, and when assembled into a piece of jewelry each stone must be cut to a similar size so that the color is equally intense. While aquamarine was a popular colored stone in the 1930s, the difficulty in matching stones meant that high jewelry houses made few pieces and they rarely come on the market today. Cartier, a leader of the Art Deco aesthetic, incorporated this pale blue stone in several of their designs and made the majority of these jewels in their London office after 1932 for clients from Europe and the United States. They mention the difficulty of sourcing perfectly matched gemstones in letters from London to New York writing, “We have . . . a number of partly completed necklaces, which we were unable to finish owing to the lack of the necessary aquamarines.”
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This unusual set features a wonderful array of aquamarines in varied cuts sprinkled throughout with diamonds. It is an essential set for spring.
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Art Deco Aquamarine and Diamond Bracelet and Ear Clips by Cartier, London, circa 1935
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Happy Valentine's Day
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Love, Your friends at Siegelson
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Heart-Shaped Burma Ruby and Diamond Ring by Siegelson, New York, featuring wonderful fluted gold studded with diamonds encircling a ruby heart. Available at Siegelson.
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Attention to detail from the best jewelers means exquisite jewelry, but also beautifully finished backs and perfect packaging.
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Ruby, Rose Quartz, and Enamel "Fleur" Brooch by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1936.
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The coldest day of the year in New York seems like the perfect time to share the warmth of this Ruby, Rose Quartz, and Enamel "Fleur" Brooch by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1936. Diana Vreeland even recommended wearing this brooch on a warm winter coat in her famed Harper’s Bazaar column called “Why Don’t
You . . .” She said, “Why don’t you . . . wear a marvelous cape of Jaeckel’s grey lemming fur and fasten it at the neck with a jeweled flower of pink quartz and rubies, like the one below?”
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Do you need some style inspiration for the Harry Winston Emerald Ring? How about Jean Patchett in Harper's Bazaar October 1955, wearing jewelry by Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels, photographed by Frances Pellegrini.
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The deep green of this exceptional Columbian emerald and diamond ring by Harry Winston, New York, is available only at Siegelson.
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Harry Winston established his eponymous company in New York in 1932 focusing on setting important precious stones into exquisite minimalist settings. Born in 1896 to Ukrainian immigrants, Winston learned the trade in his father’s New York jewelry and repair shop. Catering to an elite clientele, Winston bought and sold some of the most famous stones including the Hope Diamond, which he donated to the Smithsonian Institution. After his death in 1978, the Winston family continued to run the company until 2008.
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