TYIJA

Collection Privee? coat and Lutz Huelle flawless coordination in FRUiTS mag 2003. A leather deformation cargo skirt from the same era is available online along with FRUiTS issue #71

Tsumori Chisato campaign for So-En 1998 entitled ‘faster, higher, stronger’ by Patti Smith’s photographer Yoshie Tominaga, Hair and overall direction by Katsuya Kamo.

Helmut Lang spring 1990; I’ve scanned in some favourite looks from a collection which strangely opposes the signature DNA of the Austrian revolutionary bold recluse, seperate from what people may know of. It’s staggering to think that this came 33 years ago with such relevance in the current scheme of things. Tattooed garments in a similar time to Martin Margiela’s interpretation, ethnic beading, layered gathered tulle and reinterpretations of conventional garments with juxtaposed tying.

Fans have longed for a continuation of the house with the right creative director to take the reigns and steer it in the right direction. Whether or not the newly appointed designer will or not is too soon to say, but in true Helmut Lang format is to go against the grain rather than to regurgitate the same old bo***ge, astro, bulletproof re-editions whilst catering to the audience.

1. Issey Miyake spring 2005 reversible ruched track jacket
2. John Galliano spring 2007 knit patchwork mini dress
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Available via DM

What’s the most sentimental piece in your wardrobe that you’ll never part with?

At eighteen years old, every consecutive week I would go to a specific magazine store that housed all the international magazines to view current editorials and collections. This was the only way to see them at the time, in print.

One day, I came in and saw this editorial in i-D entitled ‘Stan’ about a French boy who photographer Kacper Kasprzyk and stylist Hannes Hetta met out and about in Paris. He works as a film technician in movies and TV set productions with the dream to become an American vintage car dealer specialising in rare models. I wonder to this day if this ever happened?

Nevertheless, the sweater shown here is from the Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme fall 2009 collection, an intarsia knit of a peeing boy. This happens to be a statue situated at the top of a V-shaped valley along the Iya River in Tokushima island. The little boy represents stories of local children who tested their courage by standing atop the cliff.

After seeing this editorial I manifested my reality and months later got my hands onto it despite at the time thinking it was near impossible. Today it still stands, has multiple holes and is yet to see the real statue in the flesh. One day..

in the Yoshiki Hishinuma fall 1997 shibori top from Koenji Dolls for issue #61. Top available online, link in bio. Photography by Takashi Homma , styling .eb000
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Hood by .yagi x (special thanks), arm warmers *tathesoloist

Fred Sathal spring 1997 ‘Against Nature’. — having gone through thousands of collections, periodically I can’t help think about the fact that some designers were ahead of their time, some collections were showcased in the right place at the right time, and some not. This doesn’t determine whether one is adequate or not, but when I look at Fred Sathal’s early work I wonder if this were released in todays climate.

Undercover’s fall 2005 ‘arts & crafts’ before arts & crafts, scab before scab.

Ann Demeulemeester’s spring 1997: scans of some favourite looks showing a very different side to the DNA of the house that most are aware of, well before the carved out post 2000s Patti Smith era. The house has copped a lot of critique in finding the right creative director since her departure, and in my opinion a revisiting of her earlier work is much more relatable today than ever before, particularly during a recession.

Some further thoughts that crossed my mind were that it would have been interesting to see who would have taken reigns for two seasons during the Ruffo Research project’s existence. Queen Ann would have been well suited alongside Veronique Branquinho, A.F Vandervorst and Sophia Kokosolaki. A revisiting of this would perhaps be cherished today through several designers that have fallen through the radar?

Junya Watanabe spring 2002 denim mermaid jacket. Watanabe’s constant affinity with everything ‘mermaid’ began with this singular collection. Virtually every designer today putting out collections with a strong focus on washed-out distressed and re-purposed denim has drawn inspiration from the origins of this singular collection. Many of the details that were consistent throughout the collection were aimed at mimicking 19th century garments with a b***d bodice, such as the inside-out of a conventional corset.

Available online now.

Thierry Mugler Ribbed Bat Corsets 🦇

Available online now. Link in bio

Mechanical Couture — a series of garments by Issey Miyake x Dyson spring 2008 ‘The Wind’, by creative director Dai Fujiwara in collaboration with James Dyson.

A collection exploring the increasingly prominent role machines are playing in redefining haute couture. Shelley Fox uses MRI scans of a Dyson DC16 vacuum cleaner which creates fat-maps or blueprints to design a collection of garments. Dai Fujiwara, a textile scientist and inventor of A-POC (a piece of cloth) examined disassembled parts of the Dyson to reproduce the internal mechanical forms as design solutions that were directly translated into the garments through pattern making and the toiling process. The fat-maps are enmeshed into the fabric like jacquard, using the A-POC patented computer technology.

Fujiwara ensures the design and engineering of the pieces are enmeshed in the clothing, which becomes a metaphor for the collaboration itself.

Two of the three garments are available online now. Link in bio!

Fly with Issey Miyake, 1977 book for Parco.

Never seen before photos of issey in New York celebrating his fall 1977 collection with friends Grace Jones and Iman. Collaborators are by the likes of Ikko Tanaka, Eiko Ishioka and Kazumi Shinoyama. Available online. Link in bio

‘An alphabet of human forms in uniform’ by M/M Paris, 2005. Photographed by Craig McDean for A Magazine curated by Yohji Yamamoto.
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Magazine available online. Link in bio

Now offering a series of rare books and magazines to the artillery. Scans from Yoshiki Hishinuma & Nobuyoshi Araki’s book entitled; 100 Flowers, 100 Butterflies. 100 girls from modern Tokyo metropolis were photographed in nature for Yoshiki’s spring 2001 collection. There were no stylists, hair or makeup artists present on set, instead each girl made herself up entirely as she chose. Soon we will be releasing a small capsule of Yoshiki Hishinuma garments from a series of collections.
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Book available online in Books & Magazines. Link in Bio!

Against All Risks, ¥ohji ¥amamoto. 1997

A temporary hiatus from posting, although here’s a special piece just listed online, a Jean Paul Gaultier fall 1993 ‘Chic Rabbis’ Raglan coat. Gaultier himself said post runway, “I saw a group of rabbis leaving the New York Public Library on Fifth Avenue. I found them very beautiful, very elegant, with their hats and their huge coats flapping in the wind. It was a fantastic scene”. Worn here with 20471120 fall 1997 reptilian boots and Takahiro Miyash*ta The Soloist big hat.

Coat and boots are available online now. Link in bio
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model
mua
styling .eb000

koenji dolls for issue #61 with the legendary and muse styling .eb000
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A temporary hiatus from posting but I’m proud to share with you this story from my recent trip to jp. It was a direct homage and play on Takeshi Kitano’s ‘Dolls’ 2002 (note the ‘2’ in the cover image), a film relating to three romantic stories told using elements of the Japanese folk puppet theatre known as Banraku. I really wanted to shine the light on the creative renaissance of youth hatching in Japan which is really exciting to see. A big thank you to Homma-san for the experience, I can’t show you my gratitude enough and hope to see you again soon!
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look 1
look 2 .yagi
look 3 and *tathesoloist

Jean Paul Gaultier fall 2000 ‘Edith Piaf’ sweater.

Gaultier’s constant affinity with Parisian actresses and artists lead to various iterations of prints throughout the years such as the infamous Marlene Dietrich prints. This sweater is a diagonal ribbed halftone jacquard knit that became an extension from the fall 2000 couture collection under the ‘Maile’ line, with inspiration dedicated to Paris and Parisian women.
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Available exclusively via DM

in the Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto fall 2003 dip-dye pants with Plein Sud sleeveless moto jacket. Available online now! (Plein Sud sold)
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mua by
photo and styling .eb000

‘Afterlife’ by Sarah & Sang beauty 🎭
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Styling and direction by
Mua
Models
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Full story online! Link in bio

in a Thierry Mugler spring 1992 ensemble. Available online now!
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Photography
Mua .mua
Styling .eb000

a.f vandevorst and dsquared2 by Fujio Saimon, 1995.

in Jean Paul Gaultier spring 2004 Edgar Degas ballerina ‘dancers’ mini dress. Available online now!
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Footwear by
mua by
styling .eb000

Thierry Mugler x Grendha Apollo Brazilian jelly shoes from 1985

in fall 2015 velvet watercolour corset. Available online now!
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mua

Scans from various TUNE issues featuring by Jun Takahashi spring 2003 ‘scab’ and various iterations of the double rider Goretex jackets stemming from the fall 2007 untitled model.

Sony Minidisc Walkman uniform, 1992. Designed by Issey Miyake.

The original prototype from the Miyake Design Studio was designed in 1981, when Sony’s chairman Akio Morita asked Miyake to design a uniform. Morita made a proposal; “unlike the golden days, today is the age of fashion. I want something that our employees can wear with pride.”

The original 1981 prototype was executed in a durable rip-tear nylon, however for the Minidisc iteration it’s featured in a feint pinstripe cotton shirting with contrast piping. Both iterations have detachable sleeves enabling the wearer to have a seasonless uniform. “I have designed uniforms for many companies, and this one is one of the top three. I think it is a wonderful idea to have uniforms that can be worn throughout the year. To meet this desire, we came up with the idea of zippered sleeves that can be attached and detached” Miyake said.

As many would know, Miyake had designed the infamous black turtleneck for Steve Jobs that he wore on a daily basis. After attempting to design a uniform vest for Apple, Jobs said “it would be great if we all wore these vests”, before getting booed off the stage. Long live the turtleneck!

wearing the Jean Paul Gaultier spring 1989 Western Fringe Suit with fall 1995 Cyber Sunglasses. Suit available online now. Sunglasses available via DM or email [email protected]

Photography by
Styling .eb000

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