UIAA - International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation

After and , the latest in the UIAA’s high peak series focuses on Africa’s highest point,

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Strange as it may sound, Kilimanjaro (5895m/19650ft) in Tanzania is perhaps one of the most dangerous mountains in the world. Despite reliable weather and straightforward access, illness and injury are commonplace. Of the more than 40,000 visitors Kili attracts each year, between 50 and 75% turn back before reaching the summit. What’s the reason for this? In one word – altitude. Altitude presents humans with a host of problems. On Kilimanjaro ‘Kili’ the combination of cold, dehydration and acute mountain sickness seems to be responsible for turning most people back. Preventing these is the key to climbing the mountain.

This paper provides essential advice for anyone considering climbing Kilimanjaro.

https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/kilimanjaro/

ICAR celebrates International Mountain Rescue Day

International Mountain Rescue Day · ICAR – International Commission for Alpine Rescue 28th of August

How the inaugural UIAA International Mountain Sports Training Course was conceived and how the first event may inspire the creation of future editions.

https://www.theuiaa.org/a-successful-premiere-in-south-america/

Acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) are the most important and most common altitude related diseases. Primary prevention is considered the gold standard to avoid altitude illness.

This video tackles the measures essential to preventing high-altitude illnesses when air pressure decreases with elevation and less oxygen becomes available, what the symptoms are, and what to do to best treat such a condition.

https://youtu.be/8D9dwH16GLw?si=X114GZHADHMH3jto

Aconcagua: A guide to climbing the highest mountain in the Americas

https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/aconcagua/

UIAA Safety Commission explores some revisions to international climbing gear and equipment safety standards and the release of new guidelines.

https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safecom-sets-sights-on-new-safety-standards/

Episode two of the On Thin Ice documentary series exploring the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour centres on a gripping competition in the South Korean mountains.

Visit the UIAA YouTube channel to watch the film.

https://youtu.be/_Vw-Q8BUKOE?si=5yMH2WkfGNhvFvn_

Everest, avalanches, women at altitude, ice climbing, climate change and rock climbing - all topics covered in the UIAA podcast series, Mountain Voices.

https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-voices-influential-guests-inspiring-stories/

Advice for women features as the first release in a new UIAA FAQ series about high-altitude medicine.

This is launched in time for the 8th World Congress on Mountain & Wilderness Medicine jointly organised by the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) and the Wilderness Mountain Society (WMS), to be held from 29 July – 1 August 2024 in Snowbird, Utah, USA. The UIAA will make a series of presentations at the conference including a number dedicated to women at altitude.

https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-expands-its-commitment-to-female-climbers-and-mountaineers/

The UIAA’s list of 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps. How many have you climbed?

https://www.theuiaa.org/4000-alps/

Position Statement: UIAA addresses Electromagnetic Interference in Avalanche Transceivers

The UIAA position statement regarding the critical issue of electromagnetic interference (EMI) with avalanche transceivers (published in December 2023) is based on overwhelming and compelling evidence which has been submitted to the UIAA. This important communication is now available in nine languages.

Full story:
https://www.theuiaa.org/electromagnetic-interference-in-avalanche-transceivers/

A video explainer about the UIAA Safety Label is now available in over 20 languages.

The UIAA Safety label or the acronym ‘UIAA’ can be found on climbing and mountaineering gear worldwide. These four letters signify that this piece of climbing equipment has been accredited to meet the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation’s – global safety standards.

The UIAA Safety Commission responsible for the development of UIAA Safety Standards for over 25 types of climbing gear, has recently produced an animation explaining both the importance of the UIAA Safety Label and how the process of accrediting a piece of equipment actually works.

The video is available in the following languages: English, Arabic, Bengali, Czech, Dutch, Farsi, French, German, Greek, Italian, Korean, Japanese, Macedonian, Nepalese, Norwegian, Polish, Portuguese, Spanish, Turkish and Ukrainian. Please visit the dedicated YouTube playlist to view the videos.

https://www.theuiaa.org/translation-of-uiaa-safety-label-video/

From the reality of climbing Everest in 2024 to the allure of competition ice climbing; from avalanche rescue to adapting to climate change; from a passion for rock climbing to high altitude advice for women; the first series of the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – podcast Mountain Voices has covered a range of important topics.

Contributions have come from 16 guests including a number of leading climbers (Adam Ondra, Beth Rodden, Graham Zimmerman, Victor Saunders to name a few) as well as experts in the field of mountain safety, medicine and sustainability. All six episodes are now available.

Further details/listen/download:
https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-voices-influential-guests-inspiring-stories/

Two UIAA member federations recently collaborated on a successful international training course. La Federación de Andinismo de Chile (FEACH/ Chilean Federation of Andinism and Climbing) and La Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME/ Spanish Federation of Mountain Sports and Climbing) are both UIAA full members and following the recent UIAA Spring Meetings and Mountain Training Course in Bariloche, Argentina, came together following an agreement made at the 2022 UIAA General Assembly in Canada.

🇨🇱 🇪🇸

Full story:
https://www.theuiaa.org/an-example-of-training-collaboration-federations-in-chile-and-spain-join-forces/

Climate Change and Climbing

The final episode in Season One of Mountain Voices focuses on climate change and specifically three fascinating case studies.

François Masse (Superintendent/Lake Louise, Parks Canada) charts both the factors which led to the loss of Abbot Pass Hut, a national historic site in Canada, and the lessons learnt. Piolet d’Or recipient Graham Zimmerman provides the insight of a professional climber who has witnessed the impact of climate change firsthand and who today is a major advocate for mountain protection. Pedro Lacaz Amaral, CEO & Founder of the Gear Tips Recycling Program in Brazil, offers positive news from an environmental project which won the 2023 UIAA Mountain Protection Award for its initiative in creating a system to properly collect and recycle gas cartridges.

https://www.theuiaa.org/mountainvoices/
Available on Apple Podcasts & Spotify

The UIAA’s Summit Series explores a number of the world’s most iconic and challenging mountains and mountain ranges.

Produced by the UIAA Medical Commission, they offer information on numerous areas including ascent profiles, acclimatisation and preparation. The papers also offer links to live information and introduces other useful areas of UIAA expertise.

Published:
: https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/aconcagua/
https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/denali/
https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/fuji/
Lenin Peak / Ibn Sīnā Peak https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/lenin-peak/
https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/mount-kosciuszko/

Coming Soon:

New case added to UIAA database of judgements on climbing and mountaineering accidents.

https://www.theuiaa.org/new-case-added-to-uiaa-database-of-judgements-on-climbing-and-mountaineering-accidents/

Development of UIAA Safety Standards

The UIAA Safety Commission recently convened in Padova for their annual spring meeting, hosted by the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). Over the course of three days, members engaged in a series of meetings and working group sessions addressing various safety topics critical to the climbing and mountaineering community.

Among the topics discussed were related to the development of new and revised international Safety Standards, notably;

New Helmet Testing Method
Static Ropes and Canyoning Harnesses Aging
Corrosion Research
Via Ferrata Construction
Ski-Mountaineering Helmets
Bolting Guidelines/Certification

Further details:
https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safecom-sets-sights-on-new-safety-standards/

Provisional calendar for 2024-2025 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour published.

‘The biggest and best in years’

2 x World Cups in Asia 🇨🇳 🇰🇷
2 x World Cups in Europe 🇨🇭 🇫🇷
2 x World Cups in North America 🇺🇸 🇨🇦
6 x Continental Opens 🇸🇰 🇨🇿 🇨🇭 🇳🇱 🇺🇸 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Further details:
https://iceclimbing.sport/the-launch-2024-2025-uiaa-ice-climbing-world-tour/



📷: Slobodan Mišković / Kaspar Kellerhals / Julia Roger-Veyer

A documentary series exploring the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, partnered by Outdoor Research launches on 29 June.

Check out the trailer here:

On Thin Ice 2024: Season One Trailer You're invited behind the scenes for the toughest competition in the climbing world, the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup. Follow the athletes on a gruelling worl...

UIAA guide to climbing Mount Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest peak

https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/mount-kosciuszko/

Mount Kosciuszko (2228m) is Australia’s highest mountain, located in the Snowy Mountains region of the Australian Alps, which form part of the country’s Great Dividing Range cordillera system. It lies in the state of New South Wales (NSW), near the border with Victoria. As the highest peak in mainland Australia, Kosciuszko marks an objective for climbers undertaking the traditional list of the Seven Summits (Bass version)

A number of youth camps have been added to the UIAA calendar for 2024.

For details on the event dates and programmes, and to register, please follow the link below.

UIAA member associations are also invited to submit details of camps of their owns.

https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-youth-commission-lines-up-summer-of-climbing-camps/

Sharing knowledge: An inspiring first mountain sports training course

Review and official film from the inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course which was held in Bariloche, Argentina in April.

The course was organised by the UIAA in close collaboration with host federation FASA (Federación Argentina de Ski Snowboard y Andinismo) and the ISMM (International Society for Mountain Medicine).

The event proved to be a massive success uniting over 100 participants from all over the world. International and local speakers and experts came from a number of fields in mountain rescue and mountain and high-altitude medicine. Course participants included a number of instructors, trainers and young medical personnel from all over Argentina as well as neighbouring South American countries.

https://www.theuiaa.org/sharing-knowledge-an-inspiring-first-mountain-sports-training-course/

Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo

Sharing knowledge: An inspiring first mountain sports training course - UIAA The inaugural International Mountain Sports Training Course was held in Bariloche, Argentina in April and comprised an intensive three-day programme designed to advance the skills and knowledge of mountain sport enthusiasts in various critical areas. The course was organised by the UIAA in close col...

UIAA Annual Report for 2023 is now available.

Download the digital version:https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/members/UIAA-Annual-Report-2023_spreads_WEB.pdf

Order a print copy:
https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-releases-2023-annual-report/

UIAA publishes 2023 Annual Report - UIAA The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – has published its Annual Report for the year 2023. The digital version can be downloaded here. Anybody interested in receiving a printed copy can do so by filling in the following form. Please note that there is a limited print ru...

𝗨𝗜𝗔𝗔 𝗦𝗔𝗙𝗘𝗧𝗬 𝗟𝗔𝗕𝗘𝗟 𝗩𝗜𝗗𝗘𝗢 𝗧𝗥𝗔𝗡𝗦𝗟𝗔𝗧𝗘𝗗 𝗜𝗡 𝟮𝟯 𝗟𝗔𝗡𝗚𝗨𝗔𝗚𝗘𝗦
This animation explains both the importance of the UIAA Safety Label and how the process of accrediting a piece of equipment actually works.

𝘞𝘢𝘵𝘤𝘩 𝘰𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘜𝘐𝘈𝘈 𝘠𝘰𝘶𝘛𝘶𝘣𝘦 𝘊𝘩𝘢𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭 ↓
🇫🇷 https://youtu.be/FYBWsqNUq7E
🇧🇷 https://youtu.be/HqnUX2Y-Pbc
🇪🇸 https://youtu.be/MYsZxHT2rto
🇩🇪 https://youtu.be/pjT910L_cmU
🇸🇦 https://youtu.be/_1FIZMcf0ds
🇮🇳 https://youtu.be/Dttcsz8I4J4
🇯🇵 https://youtu.be/qaTaajOView
🇳🇵 https://youtu.be/8m84X9lOZQM
🇨🇿 https://youtu.be/20XANCxNZuA
🇬🇧 https://youtu.be/mfXDLcgZeWs
🇬🇷 https://youtu.be/fGvCjwysEwk
🇮🇹 https://youtu.be/gp06V9r0VHQ
🇰🇷 https://youtu.be/KofK-bx4GKA
🇲🇰 https://youtu.be/xjvL-oPAkG8
🇳🇱 https://youtu.be/UHXB3QKuJK8
🇳🇴 https://youtu.be/olP_-00C-aI
🇵🇹 https://youtu.be/C8998hwRn58
🇵🇱 https://youtu.be/NDAX_cBIgZo
🇹🇷 https://youtu.be/b4xVRZOWP-c
🇺🇦 https://youtu.be/pmU5xbPHECE

🔄 Share a video with your climbing community to help spread awareness of the UIAA Safety Label.

Що таке знак безпеки UIAA? Абревіатуру UIAA можна зустріти на спорядженні для скелелазіння та альпінізму по всьому світу, але що вона означає? Ці чотири літери означають, що дане спор...

UIAA Safety Commission addresses concerns about climbing equipment in Channel 4's Dispatches investigation.

The Truth About Temu: Dispatches, Thursday 30 May 8pm, Channel 4 | Channel 4 Journalist Ellie Flynn travels across the UK revealing how Temu has reeled in so many consumers and how addictive the Temu app can be.

Register now for the 8th World Congress on Mountain & Wilderness Medicine will be held in Snowbird, Utah (USA) from 28 July – 1 August.

For the first time, the organisers will be bringing together four of the most important international bodies in the fields of rescue, wilderness, and mountain medicine in one place. The WMS (Wilderness Medical Society) and ISMM (International Society for Mountain Medicine), with support from ICAR (International Commission of Alpine Rescue) and the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), will be gathering both in Snowbird, Utah, and online. This global hybrid conference, held concurrently in-person and online, is the must-attend event of the summer for medical professionals who live life on the wild side. The hosts are expecting more than 500 combined attendees who share a passion for the outdoors and are committed to patient safety in remote environments.

Specifically, the UIAA will present information about Women at Altitude. In 2023, members of the UIAA Medical Commission, together with external experts, played a leading role in the publication of a number of papers dedicated to women and mountaineering. These papers, the result of a number of years of dedicated research and work, have been published in the High Altitude Medicine & Biology journal. They covered topics including nutrition, menopause, HAPE, HACE and frostbite.

For further details and to register:
https://www.theuiaa.org/register-for-8th-world-congress-on-mountain-wilderness-medicine/

Wilderness Medical Society

Register for 8th World Congress on Mountain & Wilderness Medicine - UIAA The 8th World Congress on Mountain & Wilderness Medicine will be held in Snowbird, Utah (USA) from 28 July - 1 August. For the first time, the organisers will be bringing together four of the most important international bodies in the fields of rescue, wilderness, and mountain medicine in one place....