Texas Fashion Collection

Join us next week, either virtually or in person at the Dallas Holocaust and Human Rights Museum!

On July 11, join the Museum to hear from Annette Becker, curator and director of the UNT Texas Fashion Collection, as she discusses Jewish Americans in the fashion industry. Becker will focus on local industry leaders such as Carrie Marcus Neiman, co-founder of Neiman Marcus, and Lilli Wolff, a custom dressmaker and Holocaust survivor. ⁠
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This event is presented in conjunction with the Museum’s current special exhibition, “Walk this Way: Footwear from the Stuart Weitzman Collection of Historic Shoes,” which closes on July 14. ⁠
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This event is free, but please RSVP here: https://dhhrm.my.salesforce-sites.com/ticket/ #/events/a0S6e00000h4HmKEAU
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This exhibition has been organized by

Plans to visit East Texas this holiday week? Make sure to check out the TFC's exhibition at the Tyler Museum of Art!

Summer Shows Stand Out at Tyler Museum of Art Surroundings: Works from Permanent Collection is on display through August 4 at the Tyler Museum of Art. The exhibition presents a variety of artistically captured landscapes and cityscapes as well

Inspired by vintage wallpaper, this textile creates a trompe l’oeil effect by tricking our eyes into seeing a flat textile as dimensional. Created in two colorways, the Todd Oldham design is printed with three tones that match the ground textile and then embellished with Swarovski crystals. In the Tyler Museum of Art exhibition “Tongue in Chic: The Humor and High Fashion of Todd Oldham,” the “tufts” print is featured on a dress and handbag from the TFC’s holdings and shown with an oversized coat lent by the designer!

Image 1: Detail of an olive-toned coat and dress with a pink-toned cross-body handbag and coat cuffs, all created in a “tufts” print mimicking repeating tufted upholstery, shown on a brown mannequin

Image 2: An olive-toned coat and dress with a pink-toned cross-body handbag and coat cuffs, all created in a “tufts” print mimicking repeating tufted upholstery, shown on a brown mannequin

Image 3: Detail of an olive-tone vest created in a “tufts” print mimicking repeating tufted upholstery, shown on a white mannequin

Check out these TFC artifacts in person at the Tyler Museum of Art!

Today, leather designs rarely highlight the connections between the animals’ bodies and the finished fashion products. These two handbags, which our records date to the late 1890s, draw our attention to the small crocodiles whose bodies became accessories. The centers feature ridged, higher profile elements called scutes, and the lower profile, flat areas are from the animals’ sides and bellies. Today, more fashion items are made of farmed alligator populations that are cultivated by conservation organizations, limiting the fashion industry’s impact on wild populations of crocodiles.

Image 1: Rectangular handbag of dark brown leather with deep ridges at the center, small arms with clawed paws to the sides, and a curved handle, shown on a white backdrop

Image 2: Rectangular handbag of red-brown leather with deep ridges at the center, small arms with clawed paws to the sides, and a curved handle, shown on a white backdrop

Created in 1960 by the textile manufacturer Celanese Corporation, this dress was originally created by Hollywood costume designer Edith Head in 1930 to be worn by movie star Loretta Young. Head recreated this (and a dozen other iconic costumes) as part of the “Star in Crepe” campaign to promote the luxurious qualities of Celanese’s synthetic fabrics.

Image 1: Detail of an oversized keyhole neckline adorned with embroidery on an off-white, draped crepe dress shown on a brown mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 2: Front ¾ view of a draped white crepe dress with an embellished keyhole neckline and full skirt, shown on a brown mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Earlier this week, TFC director Annette Becker lectured on the history of tropical floral garments to an audience at the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden! If you were unable to attend, check out the exhibition "Floral in Fashion" on view in the DeGolyer House through August 4.

Inspired by a lecture developed for UNT Fashion Merchandising students, this Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at the University of North Texas program highlights the design innovation and brand "DNA" of Chanel. A second session of this program will take place on July 23 and is open to all UNT OLLI members!

This afternoon, Texas Fashion Collection Director Annette Becker gave a special lecture titled "Chanel in Detail" about the history of the designer and luxury brand, complemented by historic and designer garments from the TFC's world-class holdings.

This belt was created by Todd Oldham, who shared these thoughts about its design: “I always loved classic landscape paintings, and this was my attempt plated in 24kt gold.” The belt and many other Oldham designs are currently featured in a Tyler Museum of Art exhibition created in partnership with the TFC, on view through September 15.

Image 1: Belt of a black and orange leopard print with an oversized buckle in a soft gold with a “frame” surrounding a bucolic landscape with a house, trees, and pond with a duck, shown on a white background

Image 2: Gallery photo of a leopard-print belt with an oversized gold buckle, shown on a pedestal with white head forms featuring hats and the back of a pair of shoes

Created by Dallas-based designer Victor Costa in 1993, this evening dress is remarkably understated considering Costa’s typical dramatic silhouettes. A sheath of cream rayon is offset with gold lace and hand-applied pearls. An oversize drop pearl sits at the center of the bust, emphasizing the implied sweetheart neckline and functioning as built-in jewelry.

Image 1: Front ¾ detail of the bodice of a cream evening dress, sleeveless, with gold swirling lace from the jewel neckline down to the bust creatine an implied sweetheart neckline, shown on a black mannequin and blue backdrop

Image 2: Evening dress of cream crepe with antique gold-colored floral lace at the top of the bodice, sleeveless, fitted silhouette, floor length. Shown on a black mannequin and blue backdrop

“Tongue in Chic: The Humor and High Fashion of Todd Oldham” is on display through September 15. Come by and take a look into the Texas-born designer’s iconic 90’s creations.

This exhibition is presented in collaboration with the Texas Fashion Collection, an archive at the University of North Texas College of Visual Arts and Design.

Though this sparkling shift dress reads as an elevated, elegant design, it was surprisingly sold at the “Sport Shop” of the popular Denver department store Neusteters. Sport shops often sold simplified silhouettes - here a straightforward shift dress with a tie belt - that likely retailed at a lower price point than, say, garments from custom or couture sections.

Image 1: Dress of sparkling bronze fabric with told and white dots and a tie belt of gold knit, shown on a black mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 2: Garment label reading “Neusteters Sport Shop” framed by a zipper and gold fabric

Image 3: Detail of the bodice of a light gold dress with white and gold dots with a gold tie belt and center front gold placket, shown on a dark blue background

Rows of beads, applied metallic lace, and sections of insert lace create the signature angles and geometric designs of Art Deco. Here those details are emphasized by the tube-like proportions of this mid-1920s dress.

Image 1: Detail of the top back of a dress of peach-colored sheer georgette with rows of gold beading creating lines that follow gold lace, with a swag of gold lace following the arm of a white mannequin, shown on a dark blue backdrop

Image 2: Dress of light pink or peach sheer fabric with a scoop neckline, no sleeves, and all-over decoration of tiers of lace and beading creating lines and geometric patterns, shown on a white mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Join us for this fun, collaborative event next week!

This 1968 Robby Len swimsuit features figure enhancing details - side cutouts and bust cups - in a design made for movement. A contemporary advertisement celebrates this garment's "kicky - not kooky" design, perhaps appealing to the conservative "yachting" set rather than the 1960's more bohemian or avant-garde fashion consumers. Learn more about the history of swimwear in the TFC Westheimer Study Gallery in this month’s exhibition curated by former TFC intern Mercedes Muratalla!

Image 1: Front 3/4 view of a yellow swimsuit with straps and round side cutouts, shown on a brown mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 2: Advertisement showing three young women modeling conservative bathing suits, holding oars and standing in front of a boat on a sandy beach, with text celebrating the garment's classic style

Created of a Chinese-inspired brocade shot with gold lurex, this 1966 Coco Chanel design both follows and departs from details iconic to French brand. The ensemble features lavish gold buttons with small pearls - perhaps relating to Chanel’s promotion of costume jewelry - and the simple silhouette allows the wearer easy movement.

Image 1: Detail of gold round openwork buttons with pearl accents at a sleeve cuff made of white fabric with gold and light blue Chinese-inspired motifs

Image 2: Shift dress and jacket of white brocade with all-over gold and light blue pattern and belt of light blue lurex fabric, shown on a white mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 3: Detail of a white designer label with black text “CHANEL” shown on light blue lurex fabric as lining and white fabric with gold and light blue surrounding it

Carefully curated materials in complementary gold tones elevate this early 1980s Richilene. The primary fabric is shot with gold-toned lurex, the sparkling threads enhancing the “watered” effect of the moire fabric. That texture is complemented by gold lace over the bodice, which offers a pattern at a similar scale. Pleats at the waistline appear to be set with a wide velvet ribbon, though they’re all stitched in place.

Image 1: Dress of gold fabric with a long-sleeved lace overlay on the bodice and pleats at the hips and knee height on the skirt, accented with a gold ribbon at the natural waist, shown on a black mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 1: Detail of the back waistline of a dress of gold moire fabric and gold lace, with a bow of gold velvet ribbon, shown on a dark blue backdrop

This 1949 dress was custom-made for a client at Bergdorf Goodman, someone who was certainly leaning into the opulence of post-war fashion. Notice the full skirt with dimensions that were disallowed during WWII, as well as the opulent hand stitching emphasizing a hyper feminine neckline.

Image 1: Detail of the neckline of a gold evening dress with gathering in the center of the bustline and detailed embroidery along the thin straps and notched neckline

Image 2: Front ¾ view of a gold evening dress with a full circle skirt, nipped in waist, and fitted bodice with swirling embroidery at the neckline, shown on a brown mannequin and blue backdrop

Hosting early career scholars and archives professions is a delight! This visit featured a sequin jumpsuit by the designer ASHISH, which we discussed both as a subject of research and as an artifact that we steward.

This late 1930s play ensemble includes a very faded tag attributing it to "Bette Anne, Made in Mexico." The coordinated ensemble features many hallmarks of early sportswear: coordinated fabric, a blouse with adjustable fit with a center-front tie, and generous arm and leg openings to facilitate easy movement. The hibiscus flowers and rope-bottom shoes suggest a relationship with a growing resort culture. This ensemble is currently on view in the DeGolyer House at the in the YFC exhibition “Floral in Fashion.”

Image 1: Front 3/4 view of a two-piece ensemble of a tie-front blouse and high waisted shorts of yellow rayon with a purple, blue, and green hibiscus pattern, shown with a matching shawl or sarong, shown on a brown mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 2: Overhead view of two shoes - one upside down - made of yellow rayon with a purple floral pattern, the bottoms made of coiled rope

This elegant Pre-Fall 2017 Oscar de la Renta ensemble deploys simple yet beautiful design decisions. Cut on the bias, the fabric drapes around the wearer’s body. While the blouse shows the sheen of the “front” of the fabric, the skirt’s relative dullness is the “back” of the same textile! And bows of self fabric make the dress look as though it were simply tied to secure it.

Image 1: Bows of light pink silk fabric laid on the same fabric gently reflecting light

Image 2: Ensemble of a sleeveless blouse of shimmery light pink fabric with draped bows at the shoulders and a long skirt with a matching belt, shown on a black mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Image 3: Detail of pink fabric bows at the shoulder of a sleeveless blouse, shown on a black mannequin and dark blue backdrop

Mark your calendars for this upcoming Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at the University of North Texas lecture!

This summer, our Debbie & Neal Smatresk OLLI After Five Series will feature two recent winners of the Provost's OLLI Faculty Award! On June 13, UNT alumnus Dr. Max Morley will give a presentation on "Classical Music and the Arts in American Culture." Then on July 9, Texas Fashion Collection Director Annette Becker will give a talk titled "Moving the Needle: Stitches and Stories in the Texas Fashion Collection." Each of these lectures will take place in the Robson Ranch Clubhouse and will feature complimentary wine and cheese.

Learn more on page 25 of our summer catalog: https://olli.unt.edu/catalog.

Join us at the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden for this upcoming exhibition and talk! The historic DeGolyer House will feature eight floral designs from the TFC's permanent collection, all with stories attached to their botanical prints.

After learning under mentor Oscar de la Renta, designer Carolyne Roehm opened her own fashion business in 1985. The elegance and femininity celebrated by de la Renta comes through in this dress, which features a complex bodice that wraps across the front waist and is secured in an oversized bow at the back. The complex patternmaking results in a figure-flattering and unique design!

Image 1: Back ¾ view of a gold evening dress with long sleeves, a full skirt, and a bow at the lower back, shown on a brown mannequin and white backdrop

Image 2: Front ¾ view of a gold evening dress with long sleeves, a full skirt, and wrap detail at the natural waistline, shown on a brown mannequin and white backdrop

Image 3: Detail of the bodice of a gold dress with a wide wrap effect, shown on a white background

We’re pleased to celebrate the humorous and high fashion designs of Todd Oldham in this upcoming exhibition!

Created by Canadian-American designer Arnold Scaasi in 1981, this evening ensemble is elevated by its over-the-top textile. The shining gold lame reflects light, obscuring the muted tones of a blue, red, and gold paisley pattern. The dense weave enabled Scaasi to drape dynamic texture on the skirt, creating the impression of a mermaid silhouette.

Image 1: Detail of rippling, shining gold lame fabric with a subtle paisley print

Image 2: Evening dress of gold lame with subtle paisley print with drop waist and mermaid silhouette, shown with a stole of self, on a black mannequin and white background

Image 2: Detail of the smooth bodice of an evening dress of gold lame contrasting with a skirt of rippling fabric, shown on a black backdrop and white background

An example of haute couture by Hubert de Givenchy, this Autumn 1992 dress demonstrates the designer’s polished effortlessness. The dress reads as a wrap dress, casually gathered across the hips and secured with a simple belt. However, the wrap is actually secured with hidden heavy-duty snaps and the belt has snaps hidden under the “buckle,” ensuring that the position stays secure and the end juts out jauntily!

Image 1: “Wrap” dress of gold brocade with long sleeves, black velvet lapels, and a belt at the natural waist, shown on a black mannequin and white backdrop

Image 2: Detail of the waist of a gold brocade dress with oversized black velvet lapels and a wide belt with a narrow rectangular buckle, the “tail” jutting out

Starting June 1, the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden will feature floral fashions from the TFC in their DeGolyer House! Join us on June 19 for a fun program featuring these culturally significant designs, facilitated by TFC director Annette Becker.

Botanical Couture: From Garden to Garment | Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden Special Event: Botanical Couture: From Garden to Garment June 19 • 6-8pm A Tasteful Place Adult member $10 Adult guest $15 Delve into the captivating history of floral fashion with the esteemed Annette Becker, Director of the Texas Fashion Collection at the University of North Texas. Learn the sec...

Trained in Paris and professionally based in New York, Roland Nivelais is known for his elegant, refined aesthetic. This evening dress shows his signature restraint and elevated materials, here a textile studded with a gradient of sequins. The gold bodice fades into black, balancing out the ruffled texture at the bottom of the skirt.

Image 1: Detail of black fabric with dense sequins creating a gradient of dense gold to black

Image 2: Front ¾ view of an evening dress with sleeveless, v-neck bodice covered in gold sequins and a long fit-and-flare skirt with ruffle detail, shown on a white mannequin and white backdrop with dramatic lighting

Our friends in the UNT Special Collections steward an impressive collection of miniature books, including a few written by Stanley Marcus. Mr. Stanley, as he was affectionately known by many, was a longtime leader of the Dallas-based department store Neiman Marcus and a founder of a collection of contemporary fashion that later became the TFC.

Small, but mighty: A big look at UNT’s miniature book collection UNT's miniature book collection is a special library collection of books under 4 inches. The miniature book collection contains a variety of astounding tiny books in many different genres. Library